Hello,

Vehicle: 1985 F-250HD, 4x4, T-19 transmission, B&W 1345 Transfer case, 460ci XLT Lariat.

U-joint at the Transmission was replaced 4 days ago. Yesterday I hear a noise like a tire blow-out as I was downshifting from 3rd to 2nd at a stop sign and truck started to shake while coasting and would not move after that.

Found that the drive shaft had dropped off at the Transmission end and the caps on the arms which fit into the Yoke were missing.

This was just put in 4 days ago and I've driven it about 100miles.

Looking at the receipt the part number of the U-joint they used was 7003A. I can not find this as a part number used on this truck. The closest I found was that the 7003A actually translates into a Transmission used on a Mustang with a T5 Transmission (????).

Mechanic doing the work (Bobs Transmissions in Tallahassee Florida) basically argued "Were not Perfect" and "**** Happens". This might be valid if an amateur such as myself were doing the work but for someone who is supposed to be a Pro and makes a living doing this it seems like either a simple installation mistake or possibly the wrong U-Joint was installed

Can anyone advise if this the U-joint P/N 7003A is incorrect and also advise what would cause the caps to come off the U-Joint at the Yoke end at the Transmission.

Also, I don't think the drive shaft caught on anything and jammed the shaft into the new rear differential but can anyone also advise what indications I should look for if the drive shaft was driven into the differential when it hit the ground.

Thanks for the advise

Rgds

nonrev

 

I would say they forgot to tighten it and why it came apart. As said sh** happens.

There are 2 ways to get this fixed.
Take back to them and hope the do it right this time free!
Or take some place else.

If the drive shaft can hit the ground it could have pushed back but I would be more concerned the shaft got bent flopping around under there.
Dave - - - -

 

Thanks Dave,

Hopefully the drive shaft didn't get bent. I was going pretty slow coming up to a stop sign, Maybe 15MPH or less and only went about 20-30 feet with it on the ground.

Yeah **** happens for sure... just such a simple error shouldn't have happened to the "Pros". I'm curious about that 7003A U-joint number as I can't find diddly on it? You know anything about suitable U-Joints.

I'd take it back but Tallahassee is 90 miles away. I took it to them cause they have such a good reputation (I thought) and the places here in Panama City tend to overcharge and do questionable work

Thanks for the info

 

For the joint I would hit any parts store for it and take what they have.
Who knows where they got that number from could be their own number?

Do you still have the Ubolts or straps that held it in?
If not you will also need a hardware kit.
Dave - - - -

 

Naw, All the straps and U-bolts were no where to be found. I walked back on the road looking for them but nothing. Hopefully the Transmission place I have it at now will have some.. Im sure they will charge for new ones...ha!

Thanks

 

The caps came off the side of the U-joint that attaches to the transmission yoke? That seems like it could only happen if the U-bolts came off (the '85 trans uses U-bolts to hold the U-joint to the trans yoke, right?). So my thought is that they forgot to tighten up the nuts on the U-bolts.

The only other thing I can think of is if they used U-joints with a cap that was smaller in diameter than they should have. In that case after the U-bolts were tightened there would have been some clearance between the U-bolt and the cap. If the U-bolt later bent in closer to the cap it would loosen the nuts.

 

Does your 1345 transfer case have a fixed flange or a slip yoke?

I guess I'm lucky to have cups retained with snap rings.

 

Hi, I drove up to the Transmission place this afternoon where the truck is waiting to be fixed. Got underneath... The Yoke coming out of the transmission still has the U-Bolts attached and one of the caps is still up inside the U-Bolt, the other cap is gone.

The cap that's still in the U-Bolt looks slightly crushed as if they might have torqued down too hard on it. Is that possible? Is there a torque specification?.

Thanks

 

The 'cup' is actually a bearing race.
They are pretty hard and very sturdy, I can't see crushing one with the kind of torque a 1/4-20 thread is rated for.

The damage probably happened as it came apart.

 

I agree with Jim, those little bolts will snap before any damage can be done by over-tightening.

 

I saw it happen. Or at least, I saw the effects. I over-tightened the U-bolts on the driveshaft on my CJ5 once, just using a normal combination wrench, not getting too crazy with it. The U-joint bearings wiped themselves out in less than a week of use.

But it didn't cause the U-joint to fall out. It started squeaking, then moved up to a clunking as the needles disintegrated. When I took it apart everything was still in place (except for the needles which had turned into a pile of dust).

 

Those things have a fairly light torque spec, something around 13 ft. lbs IIRC.

 

Yeah, it doesn't take much (as I now know well!)

 

Thanks everyone. Lots of good info.

One last thing. Has anyone been able to identify a U-Joint with the number 7003A on it? I asked the mechanic if he used the right U-joint and he said that number was on the one that came out. That means he was able to order a new one using the same number.. I'm stumped on this

 

He might not have ordered it using that number, I would not. What if it was the wrong one and why it "fell apart?"


I would go by the year/make/model/motor size/trany type and where it is with in the drive train to start with. When in hand I would see if it would work by holding it close to where it goes and if looked good then install.
Dave ----