I just bought a 2010 3.0 V6. Oil is leaking down the engine on the rear passenger side of the engine. It starts near the top. I replaced the rear valve cover gasket but it still leaks. I am concluding that it must be the timing chain cover. I can't find any info on how to diagnose and how to repair.
Any links are welcomed.
Thanks

 

We went through the same thing on my wife's 08 Escape. It had less than 50 on it then, so I was really surprised that it was leaking oil. (Come on extended warranty)! But it was coming from the font of the engine. It ended up being a head gasket was leaking, so a lot of other gaskets had to be replaced to do the job.

There is a die that can be added to your engine oil, then you may need an SUV light to see the die. But some of these dies work well without the die. Don't worry, the die won't do any damage to your engine at all.

Unk Bob

 

Diagnosis is a three step process, maybe two. Get some cleaner, and wash the area suspected, top to bottom. Add some 'black light' type dye to the oil. Drive.
The dye is optional, but should show the track of the oil as it moves down the engine. If you are good, and inspect regularly, you should be able to find the path using the Mk I Mod 0 eyeball.
Rx would likely be replacing the timing cover seal/gasket. It is an O-ring in cross section that gets compressed when the cover is tightened to torque spec. It can harden and loose its 'compression rebound' that makes it want to touch the two sides of the groove that it is retained within. Without the rebound, it will not make a good seal, and will leak.
You would have to remove the crank pulley and damper, disconnect the sensors, remove the serpentine belt, and a buncha bolts. Slide off the crankshaft, disassemble as needed, clean, replace and re-install, torquing in steps and in sequence. Add back front cover accessories, sensors, and belts.
I do not think there is an excessive amount of maneuvering room on the 'front' of the engine, so it would be a 'manipulation' task more than anything difficult.

tom

 

I just completed changing the front cover gasket - not a small job. You have to remove both valve covers and then remove the VVT control valves. Getting the front valve cover off was the hardest part. The bolt-studs under the rad hose were badly rusted. Difficult to see and get at. Eventually I tapped a smaller deep socket (3/8") on the 10mm head and got them off.

 

Didja find a spot where it made sense for the lube to be leaking out? Or was it a 'gee, it looks fine, I don't understand why it was leaking in the first place' situation.
Some bits of the cover may have required a 'dab' of RTV silicone, especially the 'corners' where the oil pan, front cover and front of the block all come together. Were either of those spots leaky?
How did you gain access to the front cover? Pull the RF wheel & tire? Remove the inner fender lining? 'splain...
tom

 

I had previously replaced the rear valve cover which did not solve the problem so I was committed to replacing the front cover. It was not obvious were it was leaking. Wet in a few locations.

Most likely it was leaking from the dabs as the O-ring seals were still proud (above the surface). The dabs are not under compression since they are still fluid when the fasteners are torqued. It is very important that both surfaces are degreased (brake cleaner) so that the silicone will adhere to both surface - forming a seal.

Both valve covers and VVT oil controllers must first be removed.
First upper intake manifold must be removed. To do this remove air cleaner box, intake hose, all air hoses and electrical connectors, remove two EGR bolts (don't lose the flat gasket), remove 1 bracket bolt, remove manifold bolts.
To remove valve covers, first remove all electrical connectors so the harness is out of the way. Remove both VVT controller.

Access to the front cover is good. Remove wheel, plastic shield, belt, tensioner, pulley, 2 oil pan bolts, electrical connectors, AC compressor, 1 alternator stud. Support engine via a wooden block under the oil pan and remove the engine mount. Then remove 16 front cover bolts.

Reassembly:
Clean all surfaces. Degrease where dabs are needed. Dabs are needed everywhere there is a metal joint. I also added silicone where the front cover meets the oil pan gasket. Assemble must be within 4 minutes so the silicone will adhere. Mount the front cover first (16+2 bolts). Then the engine mount. Then dab and install a valve cover. Then dab and install the other valve cover.
Dab the pulley keyway/washer to prevent oil leaking out.

 

Did you have to discharge the A/C or were you able to maneuver it out of the way without touching the contents?
If you have pictures, the explanation would be worth X 1000's.... (@ 1k ea)

The job does not sound nearly as bad as I had imagined it. About how long did it take? And, most important, did it stop the leak? (a clogged PCV system can allow crankcase pressure, and push oil out the easiest aperture)

tom

 

No need to discharge the AC. Unbolt it and let it hange by the pipes. In fact you do not have to remove it; I did it just to improve access to the ALT. You do have to remove 1 stud from the alt as it goes into the front cover.
The only hard is removing the front valve cover.
No more leaks.
I spent 12 hrs but a few of them was because of the front valve cover bolt/studs having rusted heads. Cleaning surfaces takes time and installing the new valve cover grommets.
Rockauto has the valve cover gasket kits on sale for ~$5. Front cover kit was a little more.

 

It has been two weeks since the repair and no more leaks. YEHHHHH