Valve cover gaskets

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Mar 13, 2008 | 02:40 PM

Bear River

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From: Salt Lake City, Utah

Valve cover gaskets

My engine does not burn any oil, however, it has developed a considerable external oil leak that I am confident is from the valve cover gaskets. It developed just after my van caught fire (due to a transmission fluid leak onto the hot exhaust). I can not see exactly where it is coming from, but it is from higher up on the block. Everything else is good. So my main quest is the recomended procedure for replacing the gaskets, any tips or tricks to make it faster or easier, and any recommended brands or parts

I was looking at these gaskets
Fel-Pro #VS50368T PermaDry
These as best I can tell are not cork gaskets. If anyone has any advise on these I would be interested in hearing it.

The van does not have any coolant leaks that I can tell (only have to add a few cups of coolant every 15,000 miles or so, mostly boil off is my guess)

Any other things you guy recommend replacing while doing the valve cover gaskets?

Mar 13, 2008 | 03:37 PM

Pablo-UA

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Not sure about cologne, but when 3.0 valve cover gaskets start leaking, no reason to change because....
Just changed valve cover gaskets, got intake manyfold oil leak, in distributor area. Did it too (had to remove valve cover gaskets, and replace them), later I got oil leak from front engine cover (water pump is bolted on it).

But it was not all. got oil pan gasket leak.....

but it was not all!!!!! Crank seals!!!!

Conclusion.

To replace all gaskets, seals, ready to leak I you have to put nearly all engine appart. But If you have engine with removed heads and front cover it is less then a hour to replacepiston rings and bearings.

So I advice you to retorq all, and wait for major problem adding a quart of oil every 2 mounth. Getting real engine troubles, rebuild it (not difficult really. I did it) and forget about engine for next 10 years. Use good parts. Nothing chineeze.

Mar 13, 2008 | 08:10 PM

93nighthawk

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From: Mitchell, SD

I would go with Ford OEM Steel gaskets, I believe those Felpro's are quark, which will leak again in no time. While you are at it, you will want to get the intake gasket set, sense you have to remove the whole intake to get the valve cover gaskets off on the 4.0LAnd while you are at it, might as well pull the heads off, get them checked, and replace the head gaskets.

Mar 13, 2008 | 08:55 PM

aerocolorado

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The condition of the valve covers is often of more importance than the type of gasket. If your's have never been off before, then you are ahead of the game. If they have been worked on, it is rather common to overtorque the hold down bolts and thus distort the critical sealing surfaces of the cover. There should be no dimpling or bowing around the bolt holes.

Be sure to also note how and where the "dog ears" are positioned around the cover. Replace them the same way. They serve to distribute torque over a wider area and prevent "dimpling" when tightening the cover. The torque specs are not all that high, but stick with the recommend values.

I replaced mine last year with the FelPro cork style (not my choice, they came in a head set) and have not had any problems thus far.

Mar 14, 2008 | 08:56 AM

Bear River

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Quote:

Originally Posted by 93nighthawk

Why would I need to check the heads? Never overheated the engine or let it run low on coolant. I'm not loosing coolant, and my engine is burning perfectly clean. I don't see a point in doing a head gasket unless I need a head gasket. The part number I linked was the only one not described as cork. It didn't say what they were however.

I will go ahead and get the intake gaskets. As I mentioned, I didn't have the valve cover leak until after the fire, so it probably caused the gaskets to vulcanize and harden.

Mar 14, 2008 | 11:12 AM

Pablo-UA

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Problem may be in covers, not heads. My covers were bent a bit and the only way to prevent leak was RTV ore other sealant.

Mar 14, 2008 | 03:33 PM

Bear River

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Which leads me to a related question. Do you use sealant on the gaskets or not? And if you do, is there a proper procedure? I want to fix this leak for as long as possible.

Mar 14, 2008 | 04:57 PM

Pablo-UA

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From: Kiev, Ukraine

I had small Ukrainian Tavria with made af alluminium head and head cover. Overheated ones she started leaking oil from under the valve cover. I tried to replace gasket, resurface cover, upper head surface, but I sold her with dirty head. No, she did not birn oil, I added not more 2 quarts per year, but I had to replace spark plugs in glowes to keep hands clean.

Mar 14, 2008 | 06:17 PM

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96_4wdr

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From: Washington state

i like the old school liquid thick Permatex Super 300 paint on and let her tack up. use it on everything but my morning toast.
my problem is remembering to clean the cap threads and then trying to get the can open 3 months later

but seems like everyone is going to the hi. tech. hi temp O2 safe automotive rated RTVs in a tube. my favorite of those is Permatex's Right Stuff, but has the wrong price

Permatex's web site has a breakdown of all their sealant, goop, liquid gasket materials. what applications and how to apply

nothing leaks like an old Ford Y block 312 with cork valve cover gaskets. the main seals leak from first mile on road