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I had a nice rust-prevention plan going on (oil/grime layer on most everything under the hood) until something(s) finally let go and my misting/sheen all over the block and valley turned into losing a quart every 100 miles. I was able to find 3 high pressure oil leaks and fix them over the last few weeks (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...questions.html). I finally started it up yesterday and drove for about 20 miles. Everything was great (even while idling) until I shut the truck off. Within a few minutes I had collected a small pool under the truck (I'd guesstimate about a cup of oil). It looks like it's from the valley drain hole but I can't see anything in the valley. I fixed my HPOP, connections for the HPOP and head, and removed my HPX and put rail plugs back in. There's no oil in the front or middle pocket of the valley (at least my repairs worked). I know the common point for a rear oil leak is the pedestal but there's a little oil in the rear pocket but it doesn't look high enough to overflow out the drain. When the pool is forming I don't see anything going into the valley so I still have a mystery leak that's hanging out there. It doesn't seem to leak while the truck is running, only after I shut it down. I haven't climbed around with my inspection mirror and flashlight yet but was wondering if someone else has had a similar issue and can give me some ideas where to focus my inspection.
Thanks for the info! I'll try and get under there in the next day or two. That is one of the few spots I didn't replace O-rings over the last year either so it is definitely a possibility.
Last time I fixed my leaks I was still leaving a puddle for a few days. Turns out the leak was more substantial than I thought and only a little bit was making it past the trans bell housing webbing and everything else up there. That and the drain hole in the back of the valley was partially clogged.
You may just need to spend a very oily and greasy day underneath it with some Gunk or Simple Green and a hose.
When oil runs out that hole, hard to tell where it will end up.
I eventually found an oil cooler leak, but mostly from watching the reservoir and noticing a little residue, which made me look specifically at the cooler.
Have you checked it? The orings get old and brittle with age. Heat and flow can change the leak, which made me think about it in your situation.
I can't find any new/fresh leaks forward of the turbo or from any of my recent work. My oil cooler has been leaking for a while but it's more of a weep (already have the new O-rings for when the time comes). There's a stain that starts at the front of the cooler and is slowly working its way back. My radiator broke (overflow nipple) so I'm already in for a new one in the near future. That plastic connector has been going for awhile (you can see the stress lines in the plastic as well as the missing chunks) and just fell off when I was working on the truck. I used a "healthy" amount of high temperature JB Steel Stik and it seems to be holding for now. If it isn't one thing its another. Once I solve the oil puking then I'll replace the radiator and re-seal the oil cooler since I've got to drain the coolant for both (I'm not interested in doing it twice and buying 8 gallons of Chevron Delo ELC instead of 4 gallons).
I can see it wet back there so that might be my issue. I'll have to run the truck and jump under there to see if that's where I'm sweating power.
I think I can get the plug out with the downpipe in place but there's no way I can clean all the old Loctite out of the threads with it there and there's a good chance of cross-threading when re-installing. Do most people drop the downpipe to get at this thing or have people had success leaving it clamped to the turbo? I have the 4" MBRP downpipe and it was a bear to get in there to begin with (from the top with no turbo or up-pipes installed) and doesn't leave much free space. I guess I could pop the plug and let the rail drain then unclamp the downpipe and try to just move it out of the way to do the install if that's my leak.
I know it says to do these plugs during a rebuild with the engine out but can I get to the other 3 with the engine installed? If this is my culprit then I would assume the other 3 aren't in good shape either.
when you said it wasn't valley oil but was coming from the top right rear of the motor I recognized it may be the plug. That pretty much exhausts my knowledge since fortunately I've never had to deal with them.
My first thought was "that down pipe will probably have to come out"
Hopefully some of the more seasoned guys will be along shortly to help with real experiences.
I haven't had to deal with those plugs, fortunately, but wanted to share a new tool that is working quite well so far.
I connect this Endoscope Boroscope to my Android Tablet. It's stiff enough to bend into shape and maneuver, but don't bother with their software, download CAMERAFI from Google Play Store.
I used it recently to retrieve my door lock code.
From a distance...eh. Up close as designed...pretty good! Can snap pics, rotate, has a dial to adjust led lights up and down.
NOT Windows 10, but I wanted it for my 10.1" old Android tablet, which is perfect.
Thought it might work to get a good view of those bolts you're looking at- maybe check them closer for leaks before tearing into things?
I haven't had to deal with those plugs, fortunately, but wanted to share a new tool that is working quite well so far.
I connect this Endoscope Boroscope to my Android Tablet. It's stiff enough to bend into shape and maneuver, but don't bother with their software, download CAMERAFI from Google Play Store.
I used it recently to retrieve my door lock code.
From a distance...eh. Up close as designed...pretty good! Can snap pics, rotate, has a dial to adjust led lights up and down.
NOT Windows 10, but I wanted it for my 10.1" old Android tablet, which is perfect.
Thought it might work to get a good view of those bolts you're looking at- maybe check them closer for leaks before tearing into things?
Got mine on amazon cheaper then eaby helped when i had to find the signal light flasher behind the dash .
The glowing green is oil after about 90 seconds of idle. The bolt head you see is going into the oil cooler housing. Now I have to decide if I'm doing this myself or taking it to the shop. From what I've read the turbo has to come out and the intake too in order to get the oil cooler out. Sounds like fun!
05-22-2016, 06:01 PM
