ring gear damage?
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From: Atlanta
It is a 4 speed non synchro box (floor shift). I'm not sure about the clutch as I have never had it out. I also have not researched what was standard on an F3 either.
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From: Atlanta
I think you are right. In looking at the Manual it appears almost everything had an 11 inch clutch except F1s and F7 and F8s
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From: Atlanta
I think you are right. In looking at the Manual it appears almost everything had an 11 inch clutch except F1s and F7 and F8s
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From: Atlanta
Thank you! To be fair the 914 is still in process 8)
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From: NM
I'd use a 2x4 or 2x6 across the pan as far back as you can put it without it slipping off. Depending on your exhaust system, you may need to loosen it at the manifold(s) so the engine can tilt forward without cracking the manifold flange. You need to pull the starter and starter plate, too.
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From: Atlanta
I'd use a 2x4 or 2x6 across the pan as far back as you can put it without it slipping off. Depending on your exhaust system, you may need to loosen it at the manifold(s) so the engine can tilt forward without cracking the manifold flange. You need to pull the starter and starter plate, too.
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From: NM
It's easier if you take the trans mount completely out (the horseshoe shaped mount). And undo the clutch cover from the engine block, take it all out at once. No question the 4-sp is a tight fit. Raising the back of the engine up helps.
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From: Atlanta
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
Is your truck an F-1? That's an F-2/3 style trans mount. It should have been easy to pull.
No puller needed for the flywheel, just take all the bolts loose, but not out, then pull the flywheel back. If it's stuck a little, pry around the edge with a crowbar, between the flywheel and a solid part of the block. When it's almost off the crank, grab hold of the flywheel and remove the bolts completely. IT'S HEAVY!! Don't let it fall on you or the ground!!
No puller needed for the flywheel, just take all the bolts loose, but not out, then pull the flywheel back. If it's stuck a little, pry around the edge with a crowbar, between the flywheel and a solid part of the block. When it's almost off the crank, grab hold of the flywheel and remove the bolts completely. IT'S HEAVY!! Don't let it fall on you or the ground!!
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Senior User
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From: Atlanta
Is your truck an F-1? That's an F-2/3 style trans mount. It should have been easy to pull.
No puller needed for the flywheel, just take all the bolts loose, but not out, then pull the flywheel back. If it's stuck a little, pry around the edge with a crowbar, between the flywheel and a solid part of the block. When it's almost off the crank, grab hold of the flywheel and remove the bolts completely. IT'S HEAVY!! Don't let it fall on you or the ground!!
No puller needed for the flywheel, just take all the bolts loose, but not out, then pull the flywheel back. If it's stuck a little, pry around the edge with a crowbar, between the flywheel and a solid part of the block. When it's almost off the crank, grab hold of the flywheel and remove the bolts completely. IT'S HEAVY!! Don't let it fall on you or the ground!!
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From: NM
They're too thin if the rivets are hitting. It doesn't look that bad, but is that something greasy sitting on it? That will ruin it. And do you want to pull the trans again to replace the disc or release bearing?? Do it now if you can afford it.
Those teeth are really hammered!
Those teeth are really hammered!