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2v Carb base question

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Old May 19, 2016 | 06:49 PM
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Question 2v Carb base question

I have a 2v carb on the 69 F250 Camper Special with a 390 engine. I'm getting the parts together to rebuild the 2100 series carb. The question is do I need to replace the base plate. It is one of the types that the water flows thru. Has anyone ever had or heard of those going bad? Or should I just not "stir the pot"? It doesn't leak or show any outward signs of wear right now. But since I was buying parts, I thought about getting some info from someone that had experience with this type of base. Thanks Guys.
 
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Old May 19, 2016 | 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by GaryKip
I have a 2v carb on the 69 F250 Camper Special with a 390 engine. I'm getting the parts together to rebuild the 2100 series carb. The question is do I need to replace the base plate. It is one of the types that the water flows thru. Has anyone ever had or heard of those going bad? Or should I just not "stir the pot"? It doesn't leak or show any outward signs of wear right now. But since I was buying parts, I thought about getting some info from someone that had experience with this type of base. Thanks Guys.
It's not a wear item per se..I wouldn't see a need to replace it unless it were severely corroded. If it is warped, then have it machined flat. Otherwise, change the gaskets and reinstall.
 
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Old May 19, 2016 | 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by HIO Silver
It's not a wear item per se..I wouldn't see a need to replace it unless it were severely corroded. If it is warped, then have it machined flat. Otherwise, change the gaskets and reinstall.
Thanks HIO, That what I was leaning towards too!
 
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Old May 19, 2016 | 09:58 PM
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A lot of people have trouble with the carb boiling the fuel out of the carb an down in to the intake after about 20 minutes of parking making it hard to get started. They do one of two things.

Remove the coolant hose an by pass it, or replace with the one of the plastic type used on the 75 or 76 and up vehicles.

But people living in a cooler climates may not have any issues with the boil over.

Orich
 
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Old May 19, 2016 | 09:59 PM
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The only problem with those is that hot water flows through it which in turn heats the carb and can boil the fuel. A lot of guys will remove it and replace it with something that insulates the carb from the manifold.
 
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Old May 19, 2016 | 10:06 PM
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The coolant passage through the base plate is intended to prevent the carb from icing up in low temperature climates.

Cold air and cold carb+warm engine equals potential condensation... that's the theory.

.
 
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Old May 19, 2016 | 10:21 PM
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I was wondering what that was also.

Would there be any harm in capping all of it and removing the hoses?
 
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Old May 19, 2016 | 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Jklnhyd
I was wondering what that was also.

Would there be any harm in capping all of it and removing the hoses?
Generally, no. Not unless it is below 30° as daytime temperatures on a regular basis.

Removing the hoses requires either the hose looped to the T-fitting on the heater return hose or removing that tee and changing the fitting on the intake to have a single port.
 
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Old May 20, 2016 | 12:31 AM
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Originally Posted by HIO Silver
The coolant passage through the base plate is intended to prevent the carb from icing up in low temperature climates.

Cold air and cold carb+warm engine equals potential condensation... that's the theory.

.
Actually Hio, it didn't work as designed on my 72 302. One time driving down the two-lane of what is now I-86 along the Snake River, my carb actually iced up with ice coating the venturies 1/4" thick. I could only do 20 mph until I could pull off someplace that had a streetlight so I could chip the ice off. It ran much better after that.
One way to fix a semi-warped base plate is to tape a sheet of very coarse sandpaper or emory cloth to a hard level surface like glass. Then rub the plate across the paper. Keep working down it down to a finer grit, and check it with a good straight edge. It should take care of some irregularities on the surface.
 
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Old May 20, 2016 | 12:48 AM
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I think I'll make a bypass hose for the summer. Then unhook the bypass for winter use. Thanks everyone for all of the info.
 
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Old May 20, 2016 | 12:52 AM
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HIO, didn't you put dual snorkels on the breather for your build?
 
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Old May 20, 2016 | 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by RichS2659
Actually Hio, it didn't work as designed on my 72 302. One time driving down the two-lane of what is now I-86 along the Snake River, my carb actually iced up with ice coating the venturies 1/4" thick. I could only do 20 mph until I could pull off someplace that had a streetlight so I could chip the ice off. It ran much better after that.
.
... and that's why I cited it was a design intent.


Originally Posted by GaryKip
HIO, didn't you put dual snorkels on the breather for your build?
Dual snorkel air cleaner, yes... It's still hanging on the wall but it will find it's way on a truck one of these days.
 
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Old May 21, 2016 | 02:39 AM
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Could you post a couple of pics of it, so I could get an idea of how it looks. I have a second snorkel and I want to put it on this truck. Is there a factory riser for a second snorkel?
 
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Old May 21, 2016 | 08:02 AM
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The home made one ez to make, and the mustang dual snorkel won't fit unless cut the snorkel off.
If the snorkel tube runners are to long and spaced evenly to look good but hit the oil filler valve cover cap. As I have made a couple of them.

Then came across the 5.0 truck with the vacuum door at the rear then added the second snorkel opening with flex tubing.

The rear vacuum door stays open at startup then closes to only pull in cool air.
Orich
 
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Old May 21, 2016 | 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by GaryKip
Could you post a couple of pics of it, so I could get an idea of how it looks. I have a second snorkel and I want to put it on this truck. Is there a factory riser for a second snorkel?





.
 
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