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Raise the front end off the ground, remove the wheels and spin the rotors to check for extreme run out. Its possible even with new properly installed rotors they can be slightly warped from the factory.
Because it lessens with more braking force this sounds exactly like warped rotors.
Also while your wheels are off double check all newly installed brake parts---could be something amiss there.
I recent put on rotors, pads, bearings and a passenger side caliper. (Drivers side was done 5k). Along with a steering stabilizer.
I now get a nasty shske upon braking. Harder you brake, less it is. Not in the pedal but in the steering wheel.
Any ideas as to why?
It didn't do this prior to the work.
09 e350 super duty dually
Hi PA,
I had a stuck passenger side caliper that did just this. Overheated the rotor to the point of glowing. I found a shim on the back of the inboard pad had fallen out of place and jammed the piston in the caliper.
Could be that the left side caliper being old and the right side new is enough imbalance to cause the shake. Hard braking would reduce that imbalance.
Additionally, recheck the spindle nut torque on both sides, that is quick and if not equal, could cause enough load on light braking for a shake.
jim
Hi PA,
I had a stuck passenger side caliper that did just this. Overheated the rotor to the point of glowing. I found a shim on the back of the inboard pad had fallen out of place and jammed the piston in the caliper.
Could be that the left side caliper being old and the right side new is enough imbalance to cause the shake. Hard braking would reduce that imbalance.
Additionally, recheck the spindle nut torque on both sides, that is quick and if not equal, could cause enough load on light braking for a shake.
jim
Left side caliper only has about 10k on it. For whatever reason the last mechanic didn't replace them in pairs.
Left side caliper only has about 10k on it. For whatever reason the last mechanic didn't replace them in pairs.
This was the inboard pad, passenger side that hung up on me. The brakes had thousands of miles on them, it appeared that the shim popped loose at some point and was waiting for a chance to cause the piston to jam in the caliper bore. I was backing up in a parking lot and jammed on the brakes to avoid JoeBagofDonuts racing through the lot behind me. Once I got moving forward on the street, the steering wheel started a shimmy and vibration. Drove slow getting home, ~5 miles, stopping a couple times.
The first, easiest thing to check is spindle nut torque, if the new bearings were not seated properly, excess movement of the rotor will cause your symptoms.
jim
This was the inboard pad, passenger side that hung up on me. The brakes had thousands of miles on them, it appeared that the shim popped loose at some point and was waiting for a chance to cause the piston to jam in the caliper bore. I was backing up in a parking lot and jammed on the brakes to avoid JoeBagofDonuts racing through the lot behind me. Once I got moving forward on the street, the steering wheel started a shimmy and vibration. Drove slow getting home, ~5 miles, stopping a couple times.
The first, easiest thing to check is spindle nut torque, if the new bearings were not seated properly, excess movement of the rotor will cause your symptoms.
jim
Correct. 2wd. New bearings. I packed them with Mobil one synthetic grease utilizing a bearing packer.
How would I seat the pads? I installed them using new clips and a bit of synthetic grease.
How much time and how many miles since you installed the new parts?
Bedding the pads is the process of getting them "mated" to the rotor for the first few hundred miles. I went overboard with bedding mine, being careful to never come to a complete stop; and following the instructions closely.
What brand of parts did you buy? Standard stuff? I performance?
How much time and how many miles since you installed the new parts?
Bedding the pads is the process of getting them "mated" to the rotor for the first few hundred miles. I went overboard with bedding mine, being careful to never come to a complete stop; and following the instructions closely.
What brand of parts did you buy? Standard stuff? I performance?
Less than 20. I took it for a nice long ride make some varied stops. 60-40 ect. Just standard pads and rotors.
Less than 20. I took it for a nice long ride make some varied stops. 60-40 ect. Just standard pads and rotors.
Break in the pads as follows:
5 moderate to aggressive stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool and do not come to a complete stop. If you're forced to stop, either shift into neutral or give room in front so you can allow the vehicle to roll slightly while waiting for the light. The rotors will be very hot and holding down the brake pedal will allow the pad to create an imprint on the rotor. This is where the judder can originate from.
Then do 5 mod*erate stops from 35 mph to 5 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool. You should expect to smell some resin as the brakes get hot.
After this is complete, drive around for as long as possible without excessively heating the brakes and without coming to a complete stop (Try for about 5 minutes at moderate speed). This is the cooling stage. It allows the heated resin in the brake pads to cool and cure.
After the brakes have cooled to standard operating temperature, you may use the brakes normally.
05-18-2016, 07:58 PM
