That's correct. The specific Thompson pump doesn't really matter. The only thing that does matter are the brackets for the specific type of engine the Thompson pump will be mounted to.

--although, in their original applications, there would have been different valving rates in the pumps dependent on the vehicle line and overall weight of the vehicle. However, there are no Ford markings or codes on the control valves of the PS pumps to identify what its intended application is/was for.

The result is the remanufactured PS pumps are just for a general, generic application covering everything.

http://www.stangerssite.com/CanIFordPump2.html

http://www.stangerssite.com/HowItWorksFordPump.html

 

Originally, there was a metal ID tag on the P/S pump reservoir with a number similar to this: HBA-BH or BH1 which is 1967/69 F100/250 2WD with Bendix P/S

1969 F100/250 2WD & F350 240/300/360/390 with Ford/Saginaw P/S without Onan Generator: HBA-BG

1969 F100 302 with Ford/Saginaw P/S: HBA-BU or CA

 

At this point, I'm getting recommendations to take my truck to a specialized shop, like True-line in Seattle or Olympic 4x4 in Snohomish to get a steering stabilizer that would fit around my power steering assist set up that apparently came off a 1977 Ford Truck. There is a good chance that I will not get this done this month and I'll be driving the truck down to the family farm in Northern California the first week of October.


Does anyone have any suggestions for either a steering stabilizer that would fit around a 1977 power assist unit (pictures posted earlier in thread) or good front end or 4x4 shops in Sacramento or Stockton, CA?

 

What's going on with your ft. end that you think you need some type of a steering stabilizer or dampener.

If your having some type of shaking issues you may need to put in new upper & lower ball joints. or check the drag link & the tie rod ends for looseness.

When, I went to disc brakes I hated that mickey mouse PA setup ford used on these early trucks and just keep the manual steering.
It keep me out of the GYM even!
Orich

 

From deep in the ol' memory banks I recall hearing/reading that the 76/77 Dentside 4x4 steering linkage was kinda in a "X" like scissors shape. And could wander or feel loose with offset rims or bigger tires. Supposedly this is why Ford redesigned the linkage for the 78/79 Dents.

 

No Jeff it's was the same style as the early manuals only with the Power assist unit. The drag links were the same lengths 16.3/16" or was it 3/8"=CRS steering box beefier then my 71 f250.

May be your thinking of the f100's
Orich

 

Come to think of it, you're right Rich. It was the F100 4X4 linkage I was thinking of. Sorry OP.

 

I don't think theirs any where to place a steering damper unless your can mount it on top on the axle tube.

You may have to do what I did..

I've had the replace my steering column tube, I used one from a 70 4wd f250 but not the shaft as it's different. Replace the mid steering shaft & u-joint an the bell coupler.

Readjusted the box shim pack tighten up the steering box got all the play out.

Rebuilt the 76 disc axle completely, new tie rod & drag link. No steering stabilizers needed. I try to always have my vehicle moving while turning the steering wheel to cause less wear & stress on everything.

Orich

 

Orich, It's just a bit of bump steer that I'd like to eliminate when I hit a pot hole or bump.

 

Jack the front wheels up off the ground and shake them up & down an side to side and look at your steering box mid shaft & pitman arm for movement or play to isolate the play it at. Also watch your steering wheel while shaking the wheels for movement.

Have you tried adjusting the steering box side plate adjusting screw.
Loosen lock nut and hole center screw in place, then turn screw inward just the free play.
Then lightly tighten lock nut then test driver around the block the repeat with 1/4 of a turn repeat test drive. Now if to tight back off 1/8 turn then again do a test drive around the block. Steering wheel needs to return to center after turning if not then loosen 1/16 of a turn looking for the sweet spot.

If you have done this already and still have some play you may be to pull the box apart and check the ball bearing & the races, the ball bearing are 3/8" the races can be found online by the numbers on them Upper & lower should be the same p/n's. You may need to pull a few end shaft shims out to correct any play.

Orich

 

Easy-peasy. Just look at Rancho Suspension's steering damper for a 76 F-250, #RS5403 with mounts #RS5509. 30 seconds of Googling. An update is that this is the same as a 72 so go and order it from a Rancho supplier.

 

This clamps around the axle tube which he has no place to bolt it.
with the PA steering.
Orich

 

Well, Rancho says it works with OEM steering meaning with the PA steering. He could call the Rancho tech line to confirm it. Another way to do it is like the Super Duties with a plate coming out from the spring u-bolts on the right side. My son's 03 350 has a double Rough Country with a plate under each spring pack with a clamped plate on the center of the steering link.

 

I put on a steering dampener on back when, I first got my 4x4 as, I found out that everything needed to be replaced or rebuilt even the spring eye bushings.. But once, I got new king pin blocks, tie rods, mid steering u-joint & turned the bell coupler blocks. Found a bent front drive line, I still had a 50 mph shake that come to find out the left front spindle & hub were both bent.

Now, I had no need for the steering stabilizer so removed it and found that my old army truck PS was about the same as my f250 manual steering. Then was not so hard after all and no shimmy shxt after that. So my steering box an me were both fighting the added damper pressure making it not so fun to drive.

But I seen most all 4wd vehicles with them. As I can really only see having one if your out off roading in the rocky or sand areas to help slow the steering from being jerked out of your hands.

Plus if you have not learn how to hold the steering while off roading you may have your finger wrapped around the steering you may end up with a broken thumb or more fingers. That was on the closed knuckle axle joints.

And no problems with the disc axle swap last yr or so. It all seen to work like when this truck was new with out any shaking or wondering in my lane.

Orich

 

So Orich, what you are saying is that Ford engineers were foolish to include part #3E651 on new 4x4's as it wasn't needed and nobody else should add one?

http://fordification.com/tech/images...ing-column.jpg