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Old May 19, 2016 | 12:57 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by pirate4x4_camo
since it was in a rollover, pay attention to the inner axle clearance around the tube, if it's bent it will show up here. when you get it cleaned up closely inspect the tubes where they go into the pumpkin, look at the plug weld that holds the tubes into the pumpkin, it may be cracked if it is bent.

also check all the wheel studs, they will or can bend or snap in a roll over. I'd consider a unit bearing suspect if any wheel studs are bent.
Yep. Already planning new unit bearings. Also going to mic out the tube and shafts check them for straightness. Any funny business and the whole thing is going to get rejected and I'll get another one. This is one of my do it once and do it right jobs because in the end everything I care about in the world will be riding on it.
 
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Old May 19, 2016 | 01:24 AM
  #17  
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not sure what or how you plan to mic a housing but the traditional and easiest way to check for straightness is with an alignment bar. a 4x4 shop or axle builder will have one and can check it for a few bucks once it is striped down.
 
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Old May 19, 2016 | 01:52 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by pirate4x4_camo
not sure what or how you plan to mic a housing but the traditional and easiest way to check for straightness is with an alignment bar. a 4x4 shop or axle builder will have one and can check it for a few bucks once it is striped down.
Used the term mic too generically there. We use it for any time we are doing very accurate (where thousandths matter) measurement of any kind though I know it actually means to measure with a micrometer. As for how I will be doing the shafts and housings I plan on using a known straight reference (a large machinists square) and bringing the ends of the housing true to that reference. Then take several measurements along the length to ensure they are straight. Unfortunately I don't know of a good 4X4 shop or axle builder near me or I wouldn't be doing this myself.
 
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Old May 19, 2016 | 10:16 AM
  #19  
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where are you located ?

a alignment bar and bushing set will run you about $250
 
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Old May 19, 2016 | 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by pirate4x4_camo
where are you located ?

a alignment bar and bushing set will run you about $250
I'm in the southern Houston area.
 
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Old May 19, 2016 | 03:10 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Pwrgeek
I'm in the southern Houston area.
you can check with Brave Motorsports in Houston , they do some legit builds and should have an alignment bar.

if you call them , tell Dave that camo from Pirate4x4 sent you. he should be able to hook you up.
 
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Old May 21, 2016 | 11:08 PM
  #22  
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Has anyone purchased these? I'm going to replace the vac lines and would like it to be a one time deal. Also I think they'd look good along with the stainless brake lines that are going on.

http://www.dieselsite.com/1999-2004f...ofhosekit.aspx

Also for anyone interested I'm going to be tracking source and cost for all of this in the first post so you might check back there from time to time (if you're like me you click the "first unread" button pretty quickly)
 
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Old May 22, 2016 | 10:33 AM
  #23  
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Holy crap!! That's a spendy bill....... Too rich for my blood
 
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Old May 22, 2016 | 12:54 PM
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I just finished doing this. Truck I got mine off of had 4.30's in it and LS in the rear so I jumped on it. Bonus was that the donor only had 100,000KM (60,000 MI) on it. Plastic hubs still function, but the aftermarkets are in the mail.
 
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Old May 22, 2016 | 06:53 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Pwrgeek

New dorman 917-513 unit bearing studs (Amazon) $47.50
New motorcraft auto locking hubs (Dieselorings) $508.44
New motorcraft F81Z-3B458-AA thrust washer sets (Dieselorings) $46.68
New motorcraft F81Z-4428-BA vacuum washer (Dieselorings) $12.38

Total: 2811.63
Are you Auto hubs not working? I personally don't see a reason to replace anything from the list I modified.
 
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Old May 22, 2016 | 10:03 PM
  #26  
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My hubs were suspect to begin with. The vacuum lines were completely fried and I'm not sure if that's why (or if they just weren't fixed because it wouldn't make any difference) but the PO had the hubs in lock and I left them that way. As a result they are both toasted now (they make a really bad noise when you turn them from auto to lock or try to spin the innards with them unlocked. The hubs on the donor are obviously damaged by the rollover. I'm replacing all the washers because it is pretty cheap insurance to not have to get back into it again. The studs are being replaced because the donor's are rusted solid (also why I'm reusing my knuckles instead) and mine are being replaced because of age and obvious signs of abuse the last time they were put on (you can tell someone had a bear of a time getting them out with a pair of vice grips at some point but didn't replace them like they should have then).
 
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Old May 24, 2016 | 12:26 AM
  #27  
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Time to deliver on some of the promised pics

When I got it uncrated the donor proceeded to puke diff fluid all over my shop floor through the diff vent (it was upside down on the pallet).




Then i got it hooked up to a shop crane, flipped over, and on jack stands. That was some work by myself (sorry no pic my hands were dirty).

Then I proceeded to dismantle it. Took the brake calipers, brackets, and rotors off. Took the track bar, and tie rod assembly off. Took the unit bearings and dust shields off.



Took the axle shafts out.



Ended up with some spare parts. Everything extra will be free to a good home at the end so PM me if you want something.



Now i just need a 1 1/2 impact socket to get the lower ball joints loose and I'll be done with dis-assembly of the donor and ready to get started cleaning it up and paining. Some of the new parts are supposed to start showing up tomorrow so that'll be exciting.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2016 | 02:36 PM
  #28  
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Any updates? I am in the middle of a D60 swap myself currently and your parts list in your first post was helpful...thanks!!!
 
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Old Sep 14, 2016 | 11:57 PM
  #29  
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Actually going to post a big update tomorrow. Summer is a busy time for work for me so this got put on hold for a couple of months. About to finish up just need to bleed brakes and fill front diff with fluid.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2016 | 03:34 AM
  #30  
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If you need a hand man, let me know. Pending whereabouts you are in south Houston, I'm not far. Down in League City behind the Cracker Barrel off 45 and 528/Main

Shot you a pm with my number
 
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