Ok guys, 2001 Ford Excursion.....just lost power windows, interior lights, vanity mirror and running board lights.

I pulled and checked fuse #14 and it looked fine. Suggestions on where to go next?

 

Sounds like some troubleshooting is needed here. We have to make sure first of all if there is power going to the fuse box on the items that have lost power.

Take a voltage tester and check #14 fuse holder. There should be power (12v) on one side of it. Check the same on location #7 Power Windows and see if there is power (12V) coming to one side of the fuse holder. we need to know if you have lost some power to your distribution fuse panels first before we can go further. I always start at the problem and work backwards. So lets start at the fuse holder and make sure there is power going out first.

 

How about your radio? When this happened to me it was the instrument cluster that went bad. Not 100% sure if affects 2001 though, so you may need to research that.

 

Ok, so I have power to both fuses. I attempted to test Relay 1 and 2. Relay 1 zeroed out on the multimeter. Relay 2 would not come free. The cover actually pulled off of it.

I checked under the hood and that light is not working either. The radio and instrument cluster lights work.

I did have the hood up recently for a long period of time. Is it possible it caused the low battery relay to trip/short?

 

That is possible but as I read through your symptoms I'm being reminded of a ground issue. If you have power passing to the load then the ground must be affected. I'm new to the eX so I'm not familiar where all the grounds are fastened. We need to look at the Grounding now to make sure that the ground is made. Let me see if I can locate a diagram that tells us about the grounding for those interior items...

 

Looking at this diagram here the front Window switch ground is connected with power locks & power mirrors. Do the power locks and the power mirror work (left & right)?

 

I know you said the fuse looked fine, but you might want to stab a new one in there anyway just to be sure. Start with the simple/cheap things, ya know?

 

I checked the power mirrors this afternoon when I got off work and they don't work. So, now that means no underhood light, now power windows (including the vent windows) at any switch, no dome lights, no vanity mirror lights, and no power mirrors. The power door locks work, the keypad lock works, and the dash lights and radio work.

Plan on trying to get by FMC tomorrow and pick up a new relay as well as hit up a parts store for some fuses just to rule out these possible issues.

Looking on the bright side, I guess I can say that I am in stealth mode.....ugh.

 

Sorry for the delay, been tied up.

Looking at what you have stated about what is not working, it is clear that in the list of items they come from at least 2 different fuse points. So this means we need to find the common denominator here that is causing the issue.

It does not sound like power to the fuse block or the other items that are power from those fuse points would not work either. So we can rule that out.

You have stated that the fuse seems good. I always check with a continuity tester just to be sure. But it sounds feasible that they are good. We know from the list of items you stated that was not working that at least two different fuse points are involved. The power windows are on a different fuse than the mirrors. That being said it order to be a fuse it would have to be both of them.

I don't think it is an relay because they are mostly designated to a specific function and not multiple functions.

What we are left with is a ground issue. In my mind according to the information you provided. A ground is a common denominator and can cause this issue as well. To check this theory let's test the dome light. Open the truck door with should create the condition to turn the dome light on. With your testers service if you have 12v on one side of the dome light bulb and reference to a ground (Put you ground lead for the testers to a metal ground on the truck somewhere or run a small wire from the battery terminal.) If you find that there is 12volts on one side with the wire coming from the negative side of the battery terminal touch it to the opposite side of the dome light bulb than the 12v. If the light comes on then you may see that the rest of the other things may work as well because of the ground being connected together. Update us to what you find.

 

Well, I learned two things today. First, I obviously can't count. So, I wasn't counting the fuse at the top of the fuse panel so fuse 14 wasn't really fuse 14. Second, you were correct, the relay was not the culprit (but I have a nice shiny new FMC made in Italy relay to say I tried). Anyway, I pull the real #14 fuse and it was blown. I "borrowed" the heated mirror 15 amp and stuck it in. The interior lights came on and the spark and fried fuse. So, what gives?

The last time that I remember they were working was before I picked up a bundle of wires under the driver seat to read the tags. Pics coming next.

 

I must assume that this nest of wires is what ties the in seat RCA monitors into the head unit. But would these be in any way related to a 15amp interior light and power windows/mirrors fuse?<br/><br/>Any suggestions as to where to look for the gremlin causing the short?

 

Ok, so back tracking. You said that last time you touched any of the wires was when you lifted up the wires under the seat..., correct? so I will assume at this time the interior lights were working when this happened?

I see some after market wiring under there. looking at the fuse holder I know that is not standard with the truck. So the question is... what does those wires go to and where are they tapping power from. First thing is first. Disconnect those wires from their tapping point. Put another fuse in and see what happens... I would personally grab a small circuit breaker maybe around 10 amps or so that is rated for DC. This way you dont have to keep going through fuses if our original theory is correct or not.

Also think back to what else is after market installed on the vehicle that you know of?... Start under the seat disconnect power to that stuff and find out what it goes to.

Edited: I keep looking at the wires and it seems as if they go to a monitor in the headrest (just guessing)... If it is a headrest unit that mean you may have more under the other seat and so on...

 

First and foremost, THANK YOU for the help. The gremlins are driving me crazy. I don't fair well with the electrical variety either. Not my strong suit.

You mentioned a circuit breaker for DC; is that a chain parts store item or will I need to look elsewhere?

The truck came with a JVC head unit with the motorized display screen that opens when the key is on and retracts when the key is off. Both monitors and the head unit operate and were not impacted by the "short". Judging by the labeling (and I will check again when I get home) the wires are associated with the entertainment system.

Hey, it dawned on me that there might be another cause. The push button for the driver side dome light broke (the switch just fell apart - button). Before but around the same time the interior issues started, I noticed the driver side dome light on one night. I removed the cover and removed the bulb. The switch disappeared into the overhead abyss. When I reinstalled the bulb, it wasn't burning but the others were. The next day or so is when I noticed the lighting issues.

 

lol! Into the abyss, huh? Funny... Sorry Im not able to help you more. It is pretty hard without the vehicle in front of me. I would check that Abyss and maybe you can get it back see if this is your problem.

Also if there is too much on one circuit that can blow the fuse as well. Circuits are only rated for so much...

As far as circuit breaker I would grab something on the lines of this:
This one is located at Grainger for $3

Just get the correct amperage that you need and it is a lot better than continuing to replace fuses...

 

I went back to the overhead console and fished out the switch that I mentioned was floating around. Once I got it pulled through the opening I made sure the wires were separated and then stuck in a new fuse. Bingo! The lights came on and everything appears to be working again. Needless to say I taped each wire before closing everything up.

So, I am going to suppose that the switch is discontinued. I guess I will see what options exist at the parts store for something that will work for turning the dome on and off manually.

Any suggestions?

Thanks again!


The broken switch




Another angle.




The end result.