Issues running while towing
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,426
Likes: 6
From: Sioux Falls, SD
Really need to get a monitor on there to read the PID's. Without one it make things much more difficult to troubleshoot. I'll post up a link to some "No Hot Start" possible issues as well as the parameters need to start.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,426
Likes: 6
From: Sioux Falls, SD
Here is a good link:
http://oregonfuelinjection.com/pdf/f...diagnostic.pdf
Page 2 give the starting requirements.
Page 6 points to the FICM or High Pressure Oil with the symptoms you mentioned.
http://oregonfuelinjection.com/pdf/f...diagnostic.pdf
Page 2 give the starting requirements.
Page 6 points to the FICM or High Pressure Oil with the symptoms you mentioned.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,491
Likes: 295
From: Fresno, CA
I see you've changed the STC fitting on the HPOP, but what about the dummy plugs? Those are notorious for failing on the 05-07s. Usually shows up as a starting issue with the truck is warm, can't build enough oil pressure to start.
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2015
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Got home from work and for giggles I tried to start the truck or at least get a code to show up, after cranking about 8 seconds it fired up and ran, let it idle for 5 minutes and shut it off and it restarted just fine.
Got another scan gauge from auto zone and all the data I have checked has shown up fine.
Crank and Cam are in sync
ICP is 650+ while cranking, ~730 at idle
FLP is 48 while cranking, 48.5 while idling
Batt Voltage is 13.6 while Running
Drove it a few miles and it's driving great but I bet as soon as I put a trailer on it and get it good and hot it'll die again.
Thanks for the Link White buffalo, I'll read it tomorrow on break.
Got another scan gauge from auto zone and all the data I have checked has shown up fine.
Crank and Cam are in sync
ICP is 650+ while cranking, ~730 at idle
FLP is 48 while cranking, 48.5 while idling
Batt Voltage is 13.6 while Running
Drove it a few miles and it's driving great but I bet as soon as I put a trailer on it and get it good and hot it'll die again.
Thanks for the Link White buffalo, I'll read it tomorrow on break.
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2015
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Forgot to reply to you earlier, I'm not sure, I'll ask my dad if the mechanic said anything about changing the dummy plugs.
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2015
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drove it around today and got out good and warm, this is that the scanguages said.
At idle
FMP- 47.5V
IPR- 22.6
ICP-589
VLT- 13.4
RPM-690
Coolant temp- 188
MFD (Mass fuel desired)- 10.1
While driving I did see the engine oil temp hit 205, coolant was 195.
I also noticed that under prolonged WOT the FICM Logic Pwr would drop from 13.5 to 12.5V
Everything seems normal with limited driving I did, I was able to run it at WOT quite a few runs and made sure everything was hot and I didn't have any symptoms or other issues.
I did not hook up the trailer and run it because I currently don't have anybody to come get me if the truck stalled out again.
I'm still waiting on a call back from my dad about the dummy plugs and standpipes.
At idle
FMP- 47.5V
IPR- 22.6
ICP-589
VLT- 13.4
RPM-690
Coolant temp- 188
MFD (Mass fuel desired)- 10.1
While driving I did see the engine oil temp hit 205, coolant was 195.
I also noticed that under prolonged WOT the FICM Logic Pwr would drop from 13.5 to 12.5V
Everything seems normal with limited driving I did, I was able to run it at WOT quite a few runs and made sure everything was hot and I didn't have any symptoms or other issues.
I did not hook up the trailer and run it because I currently don't have anybody to come get me if the truck stalled out again.
I'm still waiting on a call back from my dad about the dummy plugs and standpipes.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,491
Likes: 295
From: Fresno, CA
What is the FICM supply voltage (normally 48V) when you are doing prolonged WOT? You might have some alternator or wiring/ground issues. Have you checked grounds? The worst offenders are the ones down low that get all the corrosion, namely the one on the front of the engine block to passenger-side battery.
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2015
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Ok, I think I'm a little closer to figuring this out.
Hooked up to the trailer and drove it, got about 3 miles down the road and I heard the thumping, check the gauges and my ICP was steady at 1586 PSI, and my IPR was at 44.5%.
Those numbers stayed exactly the same until I shut the truck down and restarted it.
After I started driving I put one of the gauges on Exhaust back pressure, it stayed on 17.8 lbs no matter what I did, the ICP started showing 0 PSI even though the truck was running, and the IPR was at 23%.
Again, these numbers stayed exactly the same until the truck was shut off.
Are all of these sensors on the same computer? it sounds like either a wiring or computer problem.
Hooked up to the trailer and drove it, got about 3 miles down the road and I heard the thumping, check the gauges and my ICP was steady at 1586 PSI, and my IPR was at 44.5%.
Those numbers stayed exactly the same until I shut the truck down and restarted it.
After I started driving I put one of the gauges on Exhaust back pressure, it stayed on 17.8 lbs no matter what I did, the ICP started showing 0 PSI even though the truck was running, and the IPR was at 23%.
Again, these numbers stayed exactly the same until the truck was shut off.
Are all of these sensors on the same computer? it sounds like either a wiring or computer problem.
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2015
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That worries me. Even with the stock 110A alternator I don't think the FICM can pull enough juice to draw down the alternator if you don't have a bunch of other draw on the system.
What is the FICM supply voltage (normally 48V) when you are doing prolonged WOT? You might have some alternator or wiring/ground issues. Have you checked grounds? The worst offenders are the ones down low that get all the corrosion, namely the one on the front of the engine block to passenger-side battery.
What is the FICM supply voltage (normally 48V) when you are doing prolonged WOT? You might have some alternator or wiring/ground issues. Have you checked grounds? The worst offenders are the ones down low that get all the corrosion, namely the one on the front of the engine block to passenger-side battery.
This truck has the dual alternators, it should have the Amp output no matter what we have hooked up, but I didn't have anything running other than the engine, AC, and aftermarket radio (Stock speakers).
FMP is 48.5 while starting and idle/driving is 48-48.5
Last edited by 95 taco; May 21, 2016 at 08:13 AM. Reason: Fat fingers
Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,803
Likes: 4
We aren't fans of voltage modded FICM's for a litany of reasons. Details at 4. Do you provide a 58 voltage or other voltage modification?.
Hope this helps!
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,426
Likes: 6
From: Sioux Falls, SD
That worries me. Even with the stock 110A alternator I don't think the FICM can pull enough juice to draw down the alternator if you don't have a bunch of other draw on the system.
What is the FICM supply voltage (normally 48V) when you are doing prolonged WOT? You might have some alternator or wiring/ground issues. Have you checked grounds? The worst offenders are the ones down low that get all the corrosion, namely the one on the front of the engine block to passenger-side battery.
What is the FICM supply voltage (normally 48V) when you are doing prolonged WOT? You might have some alternator or wiring/ground issues. Have you checked grounds? The worst offenders are the ones down low that get all the corrosion, namely the one on the front of the engine block to passenger-side battery.
FICM logic and FICM Vehicle should equal battery/Alt voltage.
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2015
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If you are seeing 10.5 volts of fluctuation out of your FICM, it is shot. Sorry...
We aren't fans of voltage modded FICM's for a litany of reasons. Details at 4. Do you provide a 58 voltage or other voltage modification?.
Hope this helps!
We aren't fans of voltage modded FICM's for a litany of reasons. Details at 4. Do you provide a 58 voltage or other voltage modification?.
Hope this helps!
I thought it was odd that they were a volt different but I forgot to mention it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,426
Likes: 6
From: Sioux Falls, SD
The EBP sensor runs about $100. When you replace it make sure you check the tube as well. The exhaust gasses can accumulate over time and gunk it in the sensor up. If you unplug the ICP sensor think the PCM will run off a set of tables instead of the sensor data. Then you can run it that way and see if your symptoms reappear.
What has your fuel mileage been like?
What has your fuel mileage been like?
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 49
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The EBP sensor runs about $100. When you replace it make sure you check the tube as well. The exhaust gasses can accumulate over time and gunk it in the sensor up. If you unplug the ICP sensor think the PCM will run off a set of tables instead of the sensor data. Then you can run it that way and see if your symptoms reappear.
What has your fuel mileage been like?
What has your fuel mileage been like?
Ok, will do.
Last tank was 6.6 MPG according to the computer, after the fuel filter replacement I drove it around for a few miles and reset the computer, it was showing ~11 MPG driving around town.
But now that I've let it high idle to warm it up before I drive and get on it hard to try to replicate the issue it has dropped to ~5.4 MPG.