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I have had my e-pump installed for over a year now. When I got it in, it started better but not great. I have just realized that when I clean the filter out on my carrier pump and turn the key on, it will not fill the filter up until I push the shader valve in on my factory filter head. This is why my truck is getting harder to start. I'm sure that it's air. When I start it and hold the pedal down, it helps. What is causing the fuel to not circulate?
Make sure that with the key on, the cold advance is working; with the cold advance on, housing (back) pressure is reduced, so you'll have more fuel go through the pump without the engine cranking.
I know that it makes it much easier to squeeze fuel through it with a primer bulb.
Make sure that with the key on, the cold advance is working; with the cold advance on, housing (back) pressure is reduced, so you'll have more fuel go through the pump without the engine cranking.
I know that it makes it much easier to squeeze fuel through it with a primer bulb.
With the engine cold, turn on the key. Disconnect the rear terminal on the IP, and touch the wire to the terminal. If it clicks when you connect and disconnect it, it's working. If not, it's not working.
With the engine cold, turn on the key. Disconnect the rear terminal on the IP, and touch the wire to the terminal. If it clicks when you connect and disconnect it, it's working. If not, it's not working.
Thanks. I'll try it now.
Duh, can't try it. Just ran the engine and it's warm.
I have been saying all along there is a reason the return from the filter is there.. when there is no problem with the stock mechanical pump, it will fill the filter head up pretty quickly, if it should drain back, or when changing filters, putting a check valve in the return line near the tank or up buy the engine may help keep air from tank returning to filter, if the check valves in the mechanical pump have debris in them (there R two) fuel may fall back to tank, and be part of a hard starting problem. for air to void the high pressure pistons in the DB2 the check valve in the IP must be bad, or a olive seal is leaking, fuel pressure between filter head and ip is less than 3lbs, with no rout for air or fuel to move it must pass through the ip. this return IMO should not need to be removed, as it solves an air problem. and only when components of the fuel system are compromised buy debris (not small dirt), we are talking about shower head plastic parts or pine needles from dirty jerry cans ect will hard starting be a problem.
I hooked the air line back up and it seems to have made the issue a little worse. It usually starts easily after initial startup. After church and several other stops, it turned over more than usual before starting.
look very carful at the fuelheater oring mine started to leak air and I had starting problems unless I waited for e pump to fill the system . repaired it. is fine now.
look very carful at the fuelheater oring mine started to leak air and I had starting problems unless I waited for e pump to fill the system . repaired it. is fine now.
I done this repair, but it's been awhile. I'll get the o-rings and fix it again. I have a new fuel filter that I need to get on it anyway. Does anyone have the o-ring number handy?
ford started removing the line between the filter head and the front injector return cap to stop filter drain back from air intrusion back in 89, and issued a TSB to start removing it in 90. every truck that came into the dealer for repair had it done.
my trucks would drain the filter within 6 hours of shutoff with that line connected due to a bad check valve in the return line. with it removed, the filter will stay full until i run it out of fuel.
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