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Hello all.. First post and need some help.. So just picked up a 1999 F350 7.3 6 speed manual with 270,00 miles; from my uncle who was original owner. He broke down driving from Vegas to Dallas and called.. Long Story Short I drove to get him and towed his truck back to Dallas.. He didn't want to mess with it so I got it for $2,000.. Found the front drive shaft broke and destroyed the transfer case.. Looking for input on best place to get a new transfer case and drive shaft to get the truck going.. Looking on the internet seems a rebuilt without a core is going to cost me $1400 to $1500 looking for a better deal if one is out there.. From searching the internet looks to be a NP273 with electric shift. (shifts on dash not floor) Thanks for any help..
Terry
One other question but not really important.. Door sticker is gone and running a VIN check online shows the build date as 01.09.1998.. could this be correct??
Congrats on your new truck and good luck with it. I can't help with that build date but that badge on your front fender there says early 99 (E99 as we call it) and that will be important for some of the parts that you are looking for. If you have the money and space to put it it might behoove you to find someone's wreck for parts for the price that you'll have to pay for an xfer case. Someone knowledgeable will be along soon enough to tell you what you will need for that manual trans, e99 truck.
No problem. When you install the new transfer case, fill it with Ford Transfer Case Fluid-XL-12.
Best price I have found- FLUID - TRANSFER CASE | Genuine Ford | XL-12- -and it is the only fluid that Ford recommends as of now. About 2 quarts. They changed recommendations due to failures similar to what we are seeing in your photos.
BTW, could you ask your uncle what fluid he was using and how long ago it was changed?
I will check with him and get back to you on the fluid and last change info.. And thanks for the car-part.com site.. I found a few in the are for under 500.00 I will be checking on..
Seems to me more like a front driveshaft that had a bad double cardan or hubs that tried to lock at speed with one side axle shaft that was stationary. Curious if you are able to look at the cardan joint...
I paid $120 for my case +120 for the core from LKQ auto wrecking. Mine is a manual case/ auto transmission but I don't think the price would be that much different.
I think LKQ is nation wide.
For the drive line check out driveshaft specialist in San Antonio.
You best check out the 4x4 system. My guess is the truck jumped into 4wd or he was un-knowingly driving at hwy speeds in 4wd for a while. Same thing happened to my truck. Wifes aunt was driving 80mph on the interstate in 4wd and busted the transfer case and front shaft.
You best check out the 4x4 system. My guess is the truck jumped into 4wd or he was un-knowingly driving at hwy speeds in 4wd for a while. Same thing happened to my truck. Wifes aunt was driving 80mph on the interstate in 4wd and busted the transfer case and front shaft.
Dang. Did you have to clean the driver's seat after that?
You best check out the 4x4 system. My guess is the truck jumped into 4wd or he was un-knowingly driving at hwy speeds in 4wd for a while. Same thing happened to my truck. Wifes aunt was driving 80mph on the interstate in 4wd and busted the transfer case and front shaft.
I've done thousands of miles in 4Hi with the front hubs locked in. During the winter I never unlock my front hubs. My first case lasted 380k and the replacement has 270k on it. As long as you are not making sharp turns on dry surfaces with good traction you could stay in 4x4 year round without damaging anything.
This is the second failure exactly like this I've seen in three days. The other one was a manual shift, and the shifter put a big raspberry on his leg when it smacked him.
Something has to seize, or get jammed in the chain or something to cause the case to break in that location. Driving in 2WD with the hubs locked won't do it, everything turns at the same speed. Driving in 4Hi could do it. A lot of stress builds up in the driveline. Perhaps the case of the T-Case itself is the weak link. I've never looked, but some cases are magnesium. Not sure if magnesium is stronger or weaker than aluminum.
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