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Hey All....I'm getting ready to remove these awful spacers and have a question about the upper ball joints. The ones currently there look goofy to me, like the PO tried to compensate with spacers of some sort (see pics). Any replacements that i have looked up do not show any spacers. At stock ride height, shouldn't the upper ball joint be somewhat straight? Feedback appreciated.
Ignore the dry rotted tires....that's next on the list
Now I don't know for sure but a thought the later years you could make adjustments thru eccentrics? This is what that looks like to me. Dave ----
It is my 84....When I bought it, it had horrible steering wander and I wrongfully assumed that it was the steering gear. I immediately replaced the gear box with a Redhead but it did not resolve the problem. After looking at the front end, laying on my back, in the gravel, and taking the pics, all of the steering components looked to be new but didn't seem to line up correctly (in the second pic, the outer tie rods look "off"). Being as how this was such a hack job by the PO, I'm going to break it down and take it back to spec with Moog upper and lower ball joints in the hope that I can get it back to factory. The PO did not change the pitman arm to compensate for the attempted lift
I'm just trying to put the original front end geometry back..... where it belongs.
Those spacers are used to correct alignment and are not part of the ball joint
Originally Posted by 4x4man514
I think the eccentrics you are referring to are on the "inner" brackets? If so they are lift kit specific. I don't think the year matters.
When I said later years I thought I have seen it posted when dropping a 4x2 truck to use the later (97?) beams on out as it has ball joints that could adjust alignment and better brakes.
So the pictured ball joint "adjuster" may not be stock but I don't see why the need to get rid of it because if the alignment is off what do you do then?
On a 4x2 kingpin axle/straight axle you have to bend the beams/axle. If you have the adjusters there is no need to bend anything. Thing is with eccentric adjusters you can never get it 100% on so you turn it to get the best you can.
I also have to ask if you remove that eccentric what is used to fill the void? Stock has to use something maybe a cone type unit? Dave ----
[Quote]: I also have to ask if you remove that eccentric what is used to fill the void? Stock has to use something maybe a cone type unit?
If I get your definition of "eccentric" correctly.....once I remove the spring spacers, the ball joint "eccentrics" will no longer be necessary, therefore....no void. I've sourced two vendors for upper and lower ball joints....Moog and Motorcraft and both are within reason at around $25.00 each for serviceable (for the old school grease gun) replacements . Motorcraft is my first choice. And just a friendly reminder ...it's a 4x4 TTB, not a TIB. The only non-factory parts that I can see are the spring spacers and those hokey ball joint stud shims.
: I also have to ask if you remove that eccentric what is used to fill the void? Stock has to use something maybe a cone type unit?
If I get your definition of "eccentric" correctly.....once I remove the spring spacers, the ball joint "eccentrics" will no longer be necessary, therefore....no void. I've sourced two vendors for upper and lower ball joints....Moog and Motorcraft and both are within reason at around $25.00 each for serviceable (for the old school grease gun) replacements . Motorcraft is my first choice. And just a friendly reminder ...it's a 4x4 TTB, not a TIB. The only non-factory parts that I can see are the spring spacers and those hokey ball joint stud shims.
Yes the ball joint "eccentric".
What I am also saying is I don't see the need to remove the ball joint eccentric as I don't think it was used to fix the poorly installed lift.
I think they were used to get the alignment into spec and could still be used to do the same with out the lift.
Just thinking I wonder what the ball joint eccentric does to the axle ujoint flexing all the time.
Dave ----
I revert to the following illustration regarding geometry....
That is why they have drop brackets for the pivot points of the beams.
You drop the pivots and the camber coms back into spec. And yes you lose ground clearance.
But there is no way to get caster back into spec that is where the eccentric works.
Dave ----
[Quote]: But there is no way to get caster back into spec that is where the eccentric works.
Dave ----
Gotcha. You could be right as they may be needed once the new ball joints are in and it's back to normal ride height with new tires for the alignment......Thanks Dave and All.
It sounds like you get what I was trying to say. Keep the eccentrics when you remove the lift spacers to dial the specs back in.
Just know because it is offset you will never get both caster & camber dead on so all you can do is get both close. Then again you may if every thing is "bent" just right.
Dave ----
I will definitely keep the eccentrics. Once the spacers are out and the ball joints are in, I'm letting a local shop replace the tires (factory size) and dial in the alignment. The shop has been around for 50 years or so and does a lot of truck work from light to heavy and they are pretty familiar with TIB and TTB. The steering components all seem relatively new including the trailing arm bushings so I think I'm good there. I'm off work this coming week so hopefully I can get it done. I'll be darned....I learned something !
I would check with the shop on the eccentrics and show a picture to them and let them give the call to keep them or not as they will be doing the work.
They may have a different way to get everything back into spec with out them.
This way if they want you to remove them you can when you do the spacers.
Or they may have you keep them in and save you money so they do not need to add them.
Dave ----
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