I have an 1993 Ford Lightning and I am going to convert it to a 4 wheel drive. I have looked into this somewhat am know that everything will bolt up from that year straight on it. But what I want to know is, Is there a way to put the straight axle under my truck without fabricating brackets and everything. I do not want to put the cheap front end in it and rip it all apart because it is not strong enought for what I am wanting to do. So, can I put the Straight axle from a 3/4 to 1 ton truck directly under it, just buying the lift kit for a 3/4 or 1 ton truck. The truck is going to be for the Mud Bogs that are here in Oklahoma, Texas, and in some places in Kansas and for fun around here( showing off). What are some good transmissions and transfer cases for this setup? I am going to use the Lightning Engine and maybe the 8.8 rearend but really want to keep the lug pattern the same around the whole truck, so the 8.8 will probably be tosed. The Lightning wiring kit has the plug end for the Transfer Case but I am still thinking about the automatic lock, I still like the old fashion manual lock. PLEASE ANY INFORMATION THAT YOU CAN GIVE ME WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED IN THE DECISIONS THAT ARE GOING TO BE MADE ON THIS TRUCK.
THANKS AGAIN,
MARCO

 

Do you want coils or leafs up front? Leafs will be much easier to put in. So yes you will need to fabricate. Spring mounts and track bar mounts are going to be needed. Your also going to need a different tranny as the 2wd tranny has no place to bolt up a transfer case. Swapping from a 4x4 TTB to a straight axel isn't a simple process either. Go search out Ryan50hrl (moderator of this forum). He can tell you a lot more than I can.

 

I am wanting to use the one ton setup with the straight axle and the leafs just for the strenght and also because they look better. How strong can you use the factory setup, or is it just better for the money to go to the leaf and the straight axle setup. I am going to go with the TLS Boggers and an 8" lift, and on the last 4 wheel drive that I had ( a 84 K-5 Blazer) I had some problems with the tires spinning in the Mud and then hitting a hard spot and stripping the lock outs and gears. Yes, I am looking for a transmission for this and the transfer case, but the factory crossmember is a 4 wheel drive crossmember so it will not have to be changed. I will do a searck this weekend for Ryan and ask a few questions about this so that they are not to many susprises when I start this. THANKS
Marco

 

Just an idea, but maybe you can find a divorced t-case. That way, you only need custom manufactured driveshafts versus new tranny, etc. Since your tranny came in the truck, it should be able to handle the power. With a divorced t-case you will have a stick lever and don't have to worry about electronic garbage.

Personally, I do not think that there is that much strength difference between the Dana50IFS and the Dana60 solid axle(both of which are leaf springs). But the 60 might be a simpler unit to repair, upgrade. The hubs are the same for the two. I definetely would not put a Dana44HD as found in the light GVWR 250's of that era. As for the rear axle, I would definetly upgrade it to the Sterling 10.25" that the 250's and 350's had. You'll have a lot more torque on the axles with big tires and the Sterling can be found in a full-floater version quite easy(all 350's and the high GVWR 250's).

What size TSL's are you going to? You will need to consider a gear change in the diff's, more than likely.

So, in my opinion, I would find a donor truck that has been totalled. That will give you the spring mounts, the axles, the track bar, etc. It might be the most economical way to go.

 

The strength difference of the Dana 50 (8.5 inch ring gear like Dana44) and Dana 60 (9.75 inch ring gear) are signifigant. The axles on the solid 50's are the same size as 60 axles but they neck down to go into the little side gears. The R&P is the big difference. I don't know what size axles the ifs50 uses but I do not think the diff is very strong anyway compared to the 60.

MHO

 

Dana 50 ifs uses 60 sized axels. Problem is on the passenger side. The slip yoke will fail. There is a night and day difference in the 50 and 60.

 

FYI

The ring gear on the Dana 50 is 9.0" diameter, not the same as a Dana 44. That's why it has a different Dana model number.

 

If you got that info from the Ford Fleet website I think it's wrong. I read the same thing and was thrilled since I have a 50 in the front of my 99 SD but I've been told by everyone else including Randy (Randy's ring and pinion) that it is incorrect.

Here's a link to US gear which details the Dana diff's.

http://www.usgear.com/tl/dana2.htm

The first one is the 50.

Also the 50 and the 44 have very different axle sizes that's why they are not called the same thing. The 50 uses 60 axles from the side gears out including the large axle u-joints.

This is what I've been told and I have not broken out the tape measure so you might be right but I think from all the reputable sources I've heard it from that this is correct.

 

Ok, I've found a page that says it is 9" ring gear too.

Maybe us gear has mislead me all these years.

I will concede that it may in fact be a 9" ring gear

 

I am wanting to put the 39.5's on it but I was told that I would have to torch (cut) the fenders to make the clearence that I needed, so I am leaning toward the 35's now. What would be the year range that I am looking for for a good parts truck with the springs and axles thatI need? Right now I have an E4OD trans that came with the L. What is a good strong trans and transfer case that would bolt up to the 351W that I have that wont have the electronic stuff but dont have to order the adapter plates to make it work.

What is the big thing about the divorce transfer cases? Where did they come from and what do they run (price$) and will they bolt right up to a transmission that will bolt up to the 351 Block?

THANKS EVERYONE THAT IS HELPING ME WITH THIS PROJECT!!!
EVERYTHING WILL BE CONSIDERED THANKS AGAIN

 

The reason that the divorced Transfer case was suggested was that they don't bolt up to the trannie. You use a short driveline between the trans and t-case then drivelines from the t-case to the front and rear axles. This way you could use your trans. They came in the older 3/4 ton ford pickups. Pre 78 I think.