F-100 project
#1
F-100 project
I have a couple questions about this truck I want to bring back from the dead. Anyone have a cost estimate for having it run reliably agin and restoring the interior? The body rust I'm not too worried about just yet. Also I had a few folks in the last several years offer to buy it. What makes this truck so saught after? I've heard rumors it was worth ten grand.
#2
Tell 'em "Sold!" Somebody offers you ten large you should take it.
One thing that can be a problem right off, is the open carburetor. Don't want foreign objects or critters making nests inside the engine. It's just hazardous to leave machinery open to the elements like that.
Hard to tell from the pic, but one thing to look at, is the battery. The positive and negative posts are slightly different sizes - the positive post is always a bit larger - and it sort of looks like that in the pic, the battery is installed backwards. That may be evidence of more problems from long ago, if this is the case.
All those pine needles can be a problem btw. One of the first things to do from that standpoint is clean out the heater box. More than one old Ford has been totally destroyed by fire, because of leaves and pine needles that get inside the heater plenum through those vents at the cowl. The heater blower uses a wirewound resistor inside the box, for the slower motor speeds. They get red hot...
If the engine is still basically sound - rings OK, bearings, valves, I'd think $1000 or so would get it back in dependable condition. (New hoses, belts, plugs/plug wires, distributor, starter and ground cables, solenoid, battery, rebuild/replace carburetor, alternator, starter, fluids, recore/rod out pressure test radiator, tstat, radiator cap, gaskets, water pump, misc. hoses clamps)
Interior stuff no idea. Brakes will need a good thorough overhaul though. Everything but the pedal probably, though check for cracks. Maybe $500
Back up a second. Before you do anything, check to see if the motor is siezed, maybe pull valve covers, see that the valve train works OK. A compression test would tell the tale, no use spending any money on that if the motor is lunched, best to find another motor.
And the steering wheel - see that big gap? The column has been buggered with looks like, and they never got it back right. That may be an issue.
One thing that can be a problem right off, is the open carburetor. Don't want foreign objects or critters making nests inside the engine. It's just hazardous to leave machinery open to the elements like that.
Hard to tell from the pic, but one thing to look at, is the battery. The positive and negative posts are slightly different sizes - the positive post is always a bit larger - and it sort of looks like that in the pic, the battery is installed backwards. That may be evidence of more problems from long ago, if this is the case.
All those pine needles can be a problem btw. One of the first things to do from that standpoint is clean out the heater box. More than one old Ford has been totally destroyed by fire, because of leaves and pine needles that get inside the heater plenum through those vents at the cowl. The heater blower uses a wirewound resistor inside the box, for the slower motor speeds. They get red hot...
If the engine is still basically sound - rings OK, bearings, valves, I'd think $1000 or so would get it back in dependable condition. (New hoses, belts, plugs/plug wires, distributor, starter and ground cables, solenoid, battery, rebuild/replace carburetor, alternator, starter, fluids, recore/rod out pressure test radiator, tstat, radiator cap, gaskets, water pump, misc. hoses clamps)
Interior stuff no idea. Brakes will need a good thorough overhaul though. Everything but the pedal probably, though check for cracks. Maybe $500
Back up a second. Before you do anything, check to see if the motor is siezed, maybe pull valve covers, see that the valve train works OK. A compression test would tell the tale, no use spending any money on that if the motor is lunched, best to find another motor.
And the steering wheel - see that big gap? The column has been buggered with looks like, and they never got it back right. That may be an issue.
#3
Ok you've got a 302 v8 with a 2bbl carb, with an automatic tranny, and manual drum brakes, no PS, no AC. I see by the grill that it is from the Seventies and if the body isn't rusted and IF the paint is in good condition and IF the engine runs very well, ALONG with everything else(wipers, heater,ect) Then it might be worth $10,000......in the right market area! I'm guessing by the brick house and the pine trees that you might be in the Carolinas. I don't know if the market there would get you 10 grand, Now in Ohio and the rest of the "Rust Belt" heck yes it would. As to your question on "How much would it cost to do the interior and get it to run reliably"? Does the engine turn over, how long since it ran, what happened to it last(blown eng, overheated, ect) how many miles (Appox) does it have, does/did the tranny work, do you want to do the eng work, or have it done, do you want to buy new or replace/repair parts. I'm sure the other guys will have more questions. So answer these questions & figure what you want to do.This group can help you with anything on a FORD truck, but you have to tell them what you know and what you want to do with the truck.
#5
I want it running reliable enough to travel across country again. I'll probably have my local mechanic take a whack at it. The model year is 1970, nothing in the dash works, no even the gauges, windows and locks need to be fixed, tires may need replacing, I used to rev it up to keep the battery alive until about 2012 but stopped when the fan belt broke. I disconnected the battery so hopefully the pine needles won't be a fire hazard with no electricity running through it. Just until I can afford to get work done which should be around December. I had my cousin take a look at it and he claims he can get it running with some of the parts Tedster mentioned. He also said some welding may be needed. Hope that's not the case. I want the interior fully functional and clean so you don't need a tetanus shot just from looking at it up close. Lastly there's a small hole rusted in the driver's side floor I'm sure some have noticed.
#6
#7
Here is a quick list of what will need to be done to a truck sitting since 2012;
1) The entire brake system will need to be rebuilt.
a) The master cylinder will need replacing.
b) The brake lines will need to be inspected.
c) The rubber lines to the front wheels and rear axle will need to be replaced.
d) All four wheel cylinders will need to be replaced.
2) The engine will need to be checked to verify it is not seized.
a) Fluids and filters will need to be changed.
b) Compression should be checked.
c) Plugs Cap and Rotor and possibly convert to electronic Ignition.
3) Transmission Change fluid and filter.
4) Wheel and axle bearings should be checked.
5) Rear end fluid should be changed.
6) Shocks will need to be replaced.
7) Steering system should be inspected and worn parts replaced.
Now this is just the list to get it started and moving again. Based on what can be seen in the pictures I would say both front cab mounts will need to be replaced along with the floors. Both inner fender wells look to be rusted which will need to be addressed soon. I would take a real good look at the core/radiator support as these are prone to rusting out. This is a big job, especially if you plan on driving this truck across country.
1) The entire brake system will need to be rebuilt.
a) The master cylinder will need replacing.
b) The brake lines will need to be inspected.
c) The rubber lines to the front wheels and rear axle will need to be replaced.
d) All four wheel cylinders will need to be replaced.
2) The engine will need to be checked to verify it is not seized.
a) Fluids and filters will need to be changed.
b) Compression should be checked.
c) Plugs Cap and Rotor and possibly convert to electronic Ignition.
3) Transmission Change fluid and filter.
4) Wheel and axle bearings should be checked.
5) Rear end fluid should be changed.
6) Shocks will need to be replaced.
7) Steering system should be inspected and worn parts replaced.
Now this is just the list to get it started and moving again. Based on what can be seen in the pictures I would say both front cab mounts will need to be replaced along with the floors. Both inner fender wells look to be rusted which will need to be addressed soon. I would take a real good look at the core/radiator support as these are prone to rusting out. This is a big job, especially if you plan on driving this truck across country.
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#8
Here is a quick list of what will need to be done to a truck sitting since 2012;
1) The entire brake system will need to be rebuilt.
a) The master cylinder will need replacing.
b) The brake lines will need to be inspected.
c) The rubber lines to the front wheels and rear axle will need to be replaced.
d) All four wheel cylinders will need to be replaced.
2) The engine will need to be checked to verify it is not seized.
a) Fluids and filters will need to be changed.
b) Compression should be checked.
c) Plugs Cap and Rotor and possibly convert to electronic Ignition.
3) Transmission Change fluid and filter.
4) Wheel and axle bearings should be checked.
5) Rear end fluid should be changed.
6) Shocks will need to be replaced.
7) Steering system should be inspected and worn parts replaced.
Now this is just the list to get it started and moving again. Based on what can be seen in the pictures I would say both front cab mounts will need to be replaced along with the floors. Both inner fender wells look to be rusted which will need to be addressed soon. I would take a real good look at the core/radiator support as these are prone to rusting out. This is a big job, especially if you plan on driving this truck across country.
1) The entire brake system will need to be rebuilt.
a) The master cylinder will need replacing.
b) The brake lines will need to be inspected.
c) The rubber lines to the front wheels and rear axle will need to be replaced.
d) All four wheel cylinders will need to be replaced.
2) The engine will need to be checked to verify it is not seized.
a) Fluids and filters will need to be changed.
b) Compression should be checked.
c) Plugs Cap and Rotor and possibly convert to electronic Ignition.
3) Transmission Change fluid and filter.
4) Wheel and axle bearings should be checked.
5) Rear end fluid should be changed.
6) Shocks will need to be replaced.
7) Steering system should be inspected and worn parts replaced.
Now this is just the list to get it started and moving again. Based on what can be seen in the pictures I would say both front cab mounts will need to be replaced along with the floors. Both inner fender wells look to be rusted which will need to be addressed soon. I would take a real good look at the core/radiator support as these are prone to rusting out. This is a big job, especially if you plan on driving this truck across country.
#9
#10
For five grand you could have something that is in pretty good running order and use this as a parts truck. Whatever you do, be prepared to either spend plenty of money on a mechanic or learn to wrench on it yourself. If you're taking it across the country you definitely need to be able to do your own work.
#11
Originally Posted by GaryKip
I see by the grille it's from the Seventies...
1970 was the last year for the 17" 3 spoke steering wheel using either a horn button or horn ring.
1970 was the first year for printed circuit boards. There's one type for oil/amp gauges, another for oil/amp warning (idiot) lights...and they're 1970 F100/350 & Econoline only.
#12
For five grand you could have something that is in pretty good running order and use this as a parts truck. Whatever you do, be prepared to either spend plenty of money on a mechanic or learn to wrench on it yourself. If you're taking it across the country you definitely need to be able to do your own work.
#14
Aside from engine or tranny rebuild, these trucks require only very basic tools which I'd want with me on a cross country trip anyway. Inch sockets (half inch and 3/8 drives) along with 2-3 socket extensions and inch combination wrenches plus some screw drivers and pliers will do just about anything you might get into. Most important thing you'll need is basic know-how. Watch to buy things like a timing light, vacuum gauge, tachometer, and multimeter as you go.
Throw in an engine picker and you'll have all you need to install an engine...seriously there ain't much too these old trucks. (They ain't like my wife's Volkswagen which needs umpteen specialty tools.)
Throw in an engine picker and you'll have all you need to install an engine...seriously there ain't much too these old trucks. (They ain't like my wife's Volkswagen which needs umpteen specialty tools.)
#15
You'll easily spend that much in money and time, if your labor is worth anything. Assuming you like that sort of thing - mechanic work. But no matter, what you better really like that truck. I mean REALLY like that truck. Some people call repair or restoration a labor of love or whatever, because there's not much economic sense to it. If you hang onto it long enough it pencils out pretty good as far as cheap transportation but it takes a while. The tools are all basic hand tools, specialised tools can usually be rented cheap. If you don't have them already it tells me you will have a steep learning curve. $9 grand would buy a pretty nice restored truck if you shop carefully. Remember paint jobs alone cost that much.