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Still going to post pics of the offending piece to see if indeed it needs replacing however I am not so concerned about the replacement of said part as I have found a couple places that offer new direct replacement units.. pics in the morning hopefully and hopefully I can use the one I have because... well it was free and I'm cheap
I think I would replace it. I think there is a thread of someone trying to rebuild one but easier to just put a new one in. Aftermarket since the original is obsolete.
I think I would replace it. I think there is a thread of someone trying to rebuild one but easier to just put a new one in. Aftermarket since the original is obsolete.
crap that figures.. i might take it apart for kicks to see if it's fixable but i will be hunting up a replacement. bronco grave yard lists a new replacement direct fit i might do some more sniffing to see if i can hunt one up locally
The valve pictured is more than just a "proportioning" valve. It actually contains three separate brake functions inside. 1) Meter (hold-off) to the front discs. 2) Pressure Differential sensing between the front and rear brake circuits and 3) Proportioning to the rear drums.
The portion that's leaking on the valve is for the primary side of the brake system (the front brakes). More specifically, the part that's leaking is the bleeder valve in the Metering (hold-off) portion of the valve assembly going to the front brakes.
The OEM cast iron valve body assembly was produced by Kelsey-Hayes. On that particular style of brake valve, the bleeder valve pin sticking out of the metering valve is pulled outward when bleeding the brakes out. --if it was the OEM brass valve body assembly made by Weatherhead for trucks 6,800 GVW or greater, the pin would be pushed inwards.
If you're purchasing pre-bent brake lines, they are only going to match up to the various brake system components, as long as the truck's brake components are 100% stock and in their original mounting locations. If the MC, brake valve, etc, are different, the pre-bent lines are not going to be a direct connection to anything that's been changed from its original equipment build configuration.
crap that figures.. i might take it apart for kicks to see if it's fixable but i will be hunting up a replacement. bronco grave yard lists a new replacement direct fit i might do some more sniffing to see if i can hunt one up locally
The 'replacement' brake valve (available from Bronco Graveyard and others) is actually an aftermarket reproduction of the brass Weatherhead brake valve that was originally produced for GM vehicles.
I'm not sure if the reproduction brake valve port sizes are the same as the port sizes on the similar brass valves produced by Weatherhead for Ford but, I do know the reproduction GM valve brake pressure warning switch on it is not the same as Ford --your two-wire brake warning switch wiring connector will not directly plug into the switch sticking out of the reproduction valve (not without wiring connector modifications).
--but, then again, the brass reproduction valve isn't the same as your OEM cast iron valve and IF you're going to install pre-bent lines, then the problem may go back to what I said earlier.
The valve pictured is more than just a "proportioning" valve. It actually contains three separate brake functions inside. 1) Meter (hold-off) to the front discs. 2) Pressure Differential sensing between the front and rear brake circuits and 3) Proportioning to the rear drums.
The portion that's leaking on the valve is for the primary side of the brake system (the front brakes). More specifically, the part that's leaking is the bleeder valve in the Metering (hold-off) portion of the valve assembly going to the front brakes.
The OEM cast iron valve body assembly was produced by Kelsey-Hayes. On that particular style of brake valve, the bleeder valve pin sticking out of the metering valve is pulled outward when bleeding the brakes out. --if it was the OEM brass valve body assembly made by Weatherhead for trucks 6,800 GVW or greater, the pin would be pushed inwards.
If you're purchasing pre-bent brake lines, they are only going to match up to the various brake system components, as long as the truck's brake components are 100% stock and in their original mounting locations. If the MC, brake valve, etc, are different, the pre-bent lines are not going to be a direct connection to anything that's been changed from its original equipment build configuration.
hmmm so if indeed i have the one pictured and one decided to disassemble it to inspect for the failure point and finds that the reason for the leak is light pitting or some such thing would it be safe to fix the offending spot by polishing the pitting out with some ultra fine sand paper say 2500 grit? and if the repair doesn't work would it be quickly evidenced by a leak in the same location when the brakes are bled again? yes i realize there are easier options but i like a challenge and i like learning new skills.
also would there be an existing valve on my truck from the drum system and could/would it work with disks or could it potentially be cannibalized to repair the disk brake valve? again yes i realize there are easier options.
any opinions?
Last edited by belshe92; May 6, 2016 at 10:36 PM.
Reason: had a thought
I got mine off e-bay. It is the all brass type. All the connections and mounting holes are the same as the oem unit. As far as the light, it came with instructions to re-wire the 2-wire harness to 1-wire,and the pigtail connector is included. ( 78 F-100)
also if i go the route of the new aftermarket one what would stop a guy from just using the ford sensor?
The GM brake pressure warning switch on the reproduction brake valve isn't the same as the switch for the Ford valve. You can't just remove the GM-style switch and screw the Ford-style switch in its place.
My '69 F100 drum/drum Pressure Differential valve on the left. '77 F100 Kelsey-Hayes cast iron disc/drum brake valve in the middle, '75 F350 Weatherhead brass disc/drum brake valve on the right. Notice of the three brake valve types shown, the cast iron K-H valve in the middle is the largest of the three.
So if they are all different am I going to have issues with the plug from the truck going into the valve since the truck is a 74 with drum/drum and the valve is out of a 76? Or are the plugs the same? Also any thoughts on rebuilding the valve? Looking at the diagram above it looks relatively simple and I'd like to see if I can use all Ford parts....
So if they are all different am I going to have issues with the plug from the truck going into the valve since the truck is a 74 with drum/drum and the valve is out of a 76? Or are the plugs the same? Also any thoughts on rebuilding the valve? Looking at the diagram above it looks relatively simple and I'd like to see if I can use all Ford parts....
If the valve is being replaced with another Ford brake valve, your brake warning switch connector will plug right in. --The only exception to this would be a '67 brake warning switch. It had a single wire connector. '68 and beyond used a two-wire connector.
I only know of one place that has seals to rebuild the cast iron valve with (Muscle Car Research.com) but I believe the kit does not have the seals to rebuild the proportioning function of the valve.
If the valve is being replaced with another Ford brake valve, your brake warning switch connector will plug right in. --The only exception to this would be a '67 brake warning switch. It had a single wire connector. '68 and beyond used a two-wire connector.
I only know of one place that has seals to rebuild the cast iron valve with (Muscle Car Research.com) but I believe the kit does not have the seals to rebuild the proportioning function of the valve.
Hmm, it might be an exercise in futility but if I can make it work then why not fall else fails I buy a new one. I already rebuilt the calipers may as well try my hand at something else. If nothing else I learn something. I'll be looking into that place you listed
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