Hey guys I've just replace my split shots with single shots and haven't even gotten my chip back to use them with the proper tuning but have to drive the truck as its my only trustworthy vehicle right now.

I need some opinions on this.

I replaced my injectors as one of them was going back on the passenger bank and knocking like a rod. Installing the new injectors remedied the issue.

Now I have a new one... The driver side bank is now knocking.

The injectors have been in since Saturday and it is now Wednesday.

I've ran a tank of Diesel through them already treated with Stanadyne.

Now I do not have the proper tuning in the truck yet I know this but I don't remember hearing the noise during first startup and drive.

I also can hear a "tinking" at idle on the driver side bank.

I wonder if one of my remans is taking a poo already?

I tried to call the shop I bought them from but they're closed for the evening so here I am!

Should I wait to try and diagnose the issue until I have my chip reinstalled with the proper tuning?

When I first heard the noise I thought an injector was coming loose...

I do have a log of my drive home and I also have a couple videos illustrating the noise if they are wanted/needed.

 

If you put single shots in a truck with split shot tuning, you can't tell anything by the way it idles other than you need single shot tuning.

It should idle like an old car with a big cam in it to the point it's almost embarrassing without single shot tuning.

Come back after you've got the chip installed if you still have issues.

 

What torque spec did you use?

Did you hot torque the injectors ie: re-torque them after the engine warmed up?

And yes, wait until your get new tunes before concluding that it is an injector.

 

120 in-lbs. I did not with a torque wrench last night. I did however yank the cover and tighten each one with my 1/4in ratchet alongside the road xD

I was worried one was coming out and immediately pulled over and started in.

The engine wasn't 100% warmed but she was close when I did that.

 

My suggestion at this point would be, while you are waiting on tunes, go back under the VC's on both sides and torque them to spec while the engine is close to normal operating temp. That way when the tunes arrive you have already eliminated improper torque as a possibility. I may take some heat for this but I torque mine to at least 125 in/lbs but not more than 130 in/lbs.

Did you check the upper bolt torque while they were out?

 

I did not think to check the uppers... And I was also thinking of torquing them more if need be. I'll have to wait until this weekend. I only have part of my tools with me.

 

Super. If the uppers have never been touched post factory then they are probably fine. However, if cups have been replaced, depending upon the tool used, they could be loose.

 

As far as I know it's all original besides what I've done

 

I read the thread title, then opened it and saw the word "tink". Very super-classic loose injector symptoms. When they tink, they are on the verge of a miss and a ton of smoke on a cold start. You may already be getting oil in your fuel, which would darken the fuel filter.

I have learned (the hard way) that a cold-torque job can go bad within a few hundred miles. A very detailed hot-torque job can still go bad within one or two thousand miles - but the odds of keeping them tight vastly improve.

Book says 120, I heard a rumor it used to say 110 or 115 long ago, I have issues if I go less than 125, and others dislike going over book.

 

Good to know! Thank you Tugly! Ill crawl back on there as soon as I can

 

Zero reason to do a hot tq on injector hold downs... NONE.

 

I am really curious....

Please do feel free to give a reason or three as to why there is "zero reason" to do a hot torque. It is especially important since he already tightened the injectors after a cold torque and it will be additionally instructive if he finds more loose once he goes under the VC's again.

Enquiring minds would like to know if you have a procedure that eliminates that step. If you are willing to share the info it will save some of us about an hour each time we are under there.

 

I just want to know what's the reason for the change in torque value? Is the bolt stretching? Is it coming loose? Is the injector sinking further into the cup? Or is there another option I'm not thinking of?

 

The cup isn't sinking, but I am unsure why the torque backs off other than that. I am operating on a theory of bolt stretch and I am researching options.

As for omitting the step of hot-torque: I'd like to know what the alternative is, because I have found a drop in torque upon engine warm-up every single time I've checked it. I now check it every time... and not just on my own engine. Scotttahoe is one example.

 

Well Rich, whatever it is that is happening, and something definitely is happening, has occurred on two of the four 7.3's that I have worked on. The torque wrench has been calibrated and is of very high quality. I've had other diesel mechanics, guys that cut their teeth on the 6.9, swear that it due to bolt stretch. So, you and Scotty are not alone.

The only way that it could be the cup(s), is if they were not seated completely during install. However , that would be a very straight forward diagnosis due to the fact that you would have fuel in your degas bottle rather quickly, oil consumption would be quite high, and ICP would be low/erratic at best, and it would probably sound like a rod or rods knocking.