Leaking AC manifold hose replacement
#1
05-04-2016, 08:54 AM
Leaking AC manifold hose replacement
I was advised that my AC manifold hose is leaking as seen by dye on some of the connections. The AC is still working. I added two 12 ounce cans last October.
Replacing the manifold hose is imminent.
My vacuum engineer buddy said I should replace the drier as R134A combines with moisture and becomes acidic. He said I should rather than it's a good idea.
Should I replace both the drier and the manifold hose? I found after market manifold hose and drier for about half the price of OEM at Rock Auto. OEM is going to set me back another $375.
The mechanic working on the van is a Ford Master Tech moon lighting in his garage after hours. He does not have a vacuum pump and said he will replace the manifold hose and not to worry about the drier as long as I get the system pumped down and refilled within a few days. My regular mechanic will pump down and refill this weekend.
Replacing the manifold hose is imminent.
My vacuum engineer buddy said I should replace the drier as R134A combines with moisture and becomes acidic. He said I should rather than it's a good idea.
Should I replace both the drier and the manifold hose? I found after market manifold hose and drier for about half the price of OEM at Rock Auto. OEM is going to set me back another $375.
The mechanic working on the van is a Ford Master Tech moon lighting in his garage after hours. He does not have a vacuum pump and said he will replace the manifold hose and not to worry about the drier as long as I get the system pumped down and refilled within a few days. My regular mechanic will pump down and refill this weekend.
#2
05-04-2016, 09:23 AM
I was advised that my AC manifold hose is leaking as seen by dye on some of the connections. The AC is still working. I added two 12 ounce cans last October.
Replacing the manifold hose is imminent.
My vacuum engineer buddy said I should replace the drier as R134A combines with moisture and becomes acidic. He said I should rather than it's a good idea.
Should I replace both the drier and the manifold hose? I found after market manifold hose and drier for about half the price of OEM at Rock Auto. OEM is going to set me back another $375.
The mechanic working on the van is a Ford Master Tech moon lighting in his garage after hours. He does not have a vacuum pump and said he will replace the manifold hose and not to worry about the drier as long as I get the system pumped down and refilled within a few days. My regular mechanic will pump down and refill this weekend.
Replacing the manifold hose is imminent.
My vacuum engineer buddy said I should replace the drier as R134A combines with moisture and becomes acidic. He said I should rather than it's a good idea.
Should I replace both the drier and the manifold hose? I found after market manifold hose and drier for about half the price of OEM at Rock Auto. OEM is going to set me back another $375.
The mechanic working on the van is a Ford Master Tech moon lighting in his garage after hours. He does not have a vacuum pump and said he will replace the manifold hose and not to worry about the drier as long as I get the system pumped down and refilled within a few days. My regular mechanic will pump down and refill this weekend.
Hi coolfeet, this is the best, clearly written report on R12/134a that I have found by Tecumseh:
http://www.tecumseh.com/~/media/Nort...n-of-R134a.pdf
jim
#3
05-04-2016, 09:38 AM
Hi coolfeet, this is the best, clearly written report on R12/134a that I have found by Tecumseh:
http://www.tecumseh.com/~/media/Nort...n-of-R134a.pdf
jim
http://www.tecumseh.com/~/media/Nort...n-of-R134a.pdf
jim
Generally CoolFeet financially you're typically much better served following your mechanic's suggestions especially when he's not supplying the parts.
I myself would opt for the OEM hoses and the dryer mostly because I'd hope to avoid any too soon issues with my A/C. The dryer can be optional but they're typically less than $100?
BTW if the dryer is replaced make sure its an EXACT fit part. I bought one from Advanced for my E250 but there were process fittings that prevented it from being installed in its rather tight nest.
So far I'm very under-impressed with after market hoses whether they're A/C or brake line related---just don't seem all that robust for the longer term. Certainly price is always an issue but longevity is more important to me.
Kinda your decision to replace or hope for the best.
HTH
#4
05-04-2016, 09:46 AM
Superb article---as an old time residential/commercial A/C guy its very thorough in addressing so much about R12 & R134a
Generally CoolFeet financially you're typically much better served following your mechanic's suggestions especially when he's not supplying the parts.
I myself would opt for the OEM hoses and the dryer mostly because I'd hope to avoid any too soon issues with my A/C. The dryer can be optional but they're typically less than $100?
BTW if the dryer is replaced make sure its an EXACT fit part. I bought one from Advanced for my E250 but there were process fittings that prevented it from being installed in its rather tight nest.
So far I'm very under-impressed with after market hoses whether they're A/C or brake line related---just don't seem all that robust for the longer term. Certainly price is always an issue but longevity is more important to me.
Kinda your decision to replace or hope for the best.
HTH
Generally CoolFeet financially you're typically much better served following your mechanic's suggestions especially when he's not supplying the parts.
I myself would opt for the OEM hoses and the dryer mostly because I'd hope to avoid any too soon issues with my A/C. The dryer can be optional but they're typically less than $100?
BTW if the dryer is replaced make sure its an EXACT fit part. I bought one from Advanced for my E250 but there were process fittings that prevented it from being installed in its rather tight nest.
So far I'm very under-impressed with after market hoses whether they're A/C or brake line related---just don't seem all that robust for the longer term. Certainly price is always an issue but longevity is more important to me.
Kinda your decision to replace or hope for the best.
HTH
I read the linked article for R134A. "Utmost care must be taken to prevent moisture from getting into the refrigeration
system. Do not leave the compressor or system open to the atmosphere for longer than 15 minutes maximum. "
This answers my question about immediately pumping the system down.
What about this quote: "Polyol ester oils, while not as hygroscopic (ability to absorb moisture) as earlier considered PAG's (poly alkylene glycols), are 100 times more hygroscopic than mineral oils. This moisture is difficult to remove even with heat and vacuum.
Should I dump the PAG oil in the drier and replace with new PAG oil? Seems like I risk ruining the system if the R134 combines with water and makes an acid.
#5
05-04-2016, 09:50 AM
Dorman is an excellent supplier, perhaps it was they who made your OEM existing parts.
Hope you're indeed running "CoolFeet" again soon!
BTW did you ever snag the E-Series you were considering a while ago?
#6
05-04-2016, 10:29 AM
I looked at the van and the front tires were severely worn on the inside indicating bad camber alignment. I started thinking...new ball joints, camber bushings, new front tires (again). I just did this on my van.
The van did not come with any passenger seats. He wanted $4800. It needed $500 for new tires, another $100 for ball joints, $200 for alignment, and about another 20 hours of sweat equity. The van was not screaming "buy me!" I think I would be happier with a higher mileage fleet maintained vehicle that road ready.
The van did not come with any passenger seats. He wanted $4800. It needed $500 for new tires, another $100 for ball joints, $200 for alignment, and about another 20 hours of sweat equity. The van was not screaming "buy me!" I think I would be happier with a higher mileage fleet maintained vehicle that road ready.
#7
05-04-2016, 11:45 AM
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#8
05-04-2016, 12:03 PM
#9
05-04-2016, 01:24 PM
#10
05-04-2016, 01:59 PM
which van are you looking to find a hose for? You have 2 listed and I dont remember which one.. If I get a chance later I will see if I can find a ford hose at a decent price. I managed to find all ford hoses for my 88.. bought one from AZ and took it back because it was much thinner material then the ford hose.. The aluminum tubing and rubber hose..
i was told that dryers can be aftermarket but like JWA said, make sure you get an exact fit..
do you have a part number for the hose?
Another option is to have a good AC shop to make a new one for you.. I found a shop that restores cars and did their own AC work.. he said they started at about $60 for a single line.. So I guess it depends on which line and what size
i was told that dryers can be aftermarket but like JWA said, make sure you get an exact fit..
do you have a part number for the hose?
Another option is to have a good AC shop to make a new one for you.. I found a shop that restores cars and did their own AC work.. he said they started at about $60 for a single line.. So I guess it depends on which line and what size
#11
05-04-2016, 02:39 PM
#12
05-04-2016, 04:41 PM
Is it leaking right at the compressor where the manifold block bolts on to the compressor? Or is it leaking at one of the compression clamp fittings that holds the rubber line on?
do you have aux rear air?
The manifold hose has both the suction and high side on it? They both tie into one block correct?
If so then can you look at the bottom two Motorcraft hoses on this page on RA and let me know which hose you have
2004 FORD E-350 6.0L V8 DIESEL Turbocharged A/C Refrigerant Hose | RockAuto
same thing with the dryer.. The bottom 3 are motorcraft and each one is different.. Two look almost the same but re different.. let me know which one and I will do a search and see what I come up with..
Not that I will find anything different then you already have but I have noticed that, I guess google collects information on how and what people search for.. I have noticed different computers turn up different things often when searching for the same thing. Plus I hate to spend extra money when I can find it for less and hate to see others do it too!
2004 FORD E-350 6.0L V8 DIESEL Turbocharged A/C Receiver Drier / Accumulator | RockAuto
Ra lists 2 different Motorcraft hoses but according to Fprdparts.com
YF-3112 Replaced By YF-37272 So they would be basically be the same..
http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/In...?part=YF-37272
do you have aux rear air?
The manifold hose has both the suction and high side on it? They both tie into one block correct?
If so then can you look at the bottom two Motorcraft hoses on this page on RA and let me know which hose you have
2004 FORD E-350 6.0L V8 DIESEL Turbocharged A/C Refrigerant Hose | RockAuto
same thing with the dryer.. The bottom 3 are motorcraft and each one is different.. Two look almost the same but re different.. let me know which one and I will do a search and see what I come up with..
Not that I will find anything different then you already have but I have noticed that, I guess google collects information on how and what people search for.. I have noticed different computers turn up different things often when searching for the same thing. Plus I hate to spend extra money when I can find it for less and hate to see others do it too!
2004 FORD E-350 6.0L V8 DIESEL Turbocharged A/C Receiver Drier / Accumulator | RockAuto
Ra lists 2 different Motorcraft hoses but according to Fprdparts.com
YF-3112 Replaced By YF-37272 So they would be basically be the same..
http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/In...?part=YF-37272
#13
05-04-2016, 05:54 PM
HEre is a Motorcraft hose $47 cheaper then RA along with free shipping
Yf37272 a/c manifold tube new motorcraft US $150.00
FREE Expedited Shipping
YF37272 A C Manifold Tube New Motorcraft | eBay
I advise against aftermarket unless price is an issue so
If going aftermarket here is a UAC
A/C Manifold Hose Assembly-Suction and Discharge Assembly fits E-350 Club Wagon US $40.35
FREE Standard Postage
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/A-C-Manif...0AAOSwHxVW7QWk
Yf37272 a/c manifold tube new motorcraft US $150.00
FREE Expedited Shipping
YF37272 A C Manifold Tube New Motorcraft | eBay
I advise against aftermarket unless price is an issue so
If going aftermarket here is a UAC
A/C Manifold Hose Assembly-Suction and Discharge Assembly fits E-350 Club Wagon US $40.35
FREE Standard Postage
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/A-C-Manif...0AAOSwHxVW7QWk
#14
05-04-2016, 07:16 PM
I have rear auxiliary air. I think OEM is better in the long term.
The eBay manifold hose is a good price. It's going to cost about $300 for OEM drier and manifold hose. Not sure how tight the working space is. I plan on buying the parts and bringing them on my 5 week trip. If the AC goes bad I will find an ac shop and get it done.
The eBay manifold hose is a good price. It's going to cost about $300 for OEM drier and manifold hose. Not sure how tight the working space is. I plan on buying the parts and bringing them on my 5 week trip. If the AC goes bad I will find an ac shop and get it done.
#15
05-04-2016, 07:52 PM
I didn't find a dryer any cheaper then RA has them. When I was looking for a Motorcraft dryer I had the same problem. I was lucky finding most of the parts i needed. I found a new motorcraft condenser for my van for $50 where the place was getting rid of old stock. I found my manifold hose for $50 through U-Haul who sells their old stock...
I ask about the leak because there are a couple of O-Rings that go between the compressor and the manifold connection that do go bad... i was hoping that your problem might be as simple as changing out the $2 O-Rings...
I would take a couple of cans of R134 with me, if I were you.. It might be much cheaper then a repair on the road.. Something else to think about if the repair is done while on the road. You will have no guarantee unless you went to a national chain shop and most of those have poor ratings...
And yes, change that dryer, hose, vacuum it at least 30 minutes, wait and see if the vacuum bleeds off, in not, recharge it and you should be good to go..
One other concern might be how much oil leaked out.... When they change the dryer, make sure they pour the oil out of the old dryer, measure it exactly, and replace the same amount back into the new dryer...
I ask about the leak because there are a couple of O-Rings that go between the compressor and the manifold connection that do go bad... i was hoping that your problem might be as simple as changing out the $2 O-Rings...
I would take a couple of cans of R134 with me, if I were you.. It might be much cheaper then a repair on the road.. Something else to think about if the repair is done while on the road. You will have no guarantee unless you went to a national chain shop and most of those have poor ratings...
And yes, change that dryer, hose, vacuum it at least 30 minutes, wait and see if the vacuum bleeds off, in not, recharge it and you should be good to go..
One other concern might be how much oil leaked out.... When they change the dryer, make sure they pour the oil out of the old dryer, measure it exactly, and replace the same amount back into the new dryer...