Rumble up paved hills
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 424
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From: Missouri
Rumble up paved hills
Ok...not sure were to go with this or how to explain it, while climbing a steep paved hill at 5-10 mph I get a rumbling vibration and noise. If I were to guess almost like axle wrap is causing the U Joints to bind or something. Runs and drives fine other then that. If I put it in 4x4 it does not happen, only seems to happen when wheels cant slip while climbing hills at LOW speed. Don't notice it if climbing a dirt hill. There is a hill at the kids baseball fields that is steep and paved that its really bad on, way to busy right now to play on it to see what's happening.
What are your thoughts?
Tranny was looked at and oil changed.
New BDS 4" lift - had same issue prior to lift, though stock springs were worn.
Searched the form but really didn't come up with anything at this low of speed. While in Wisconsin the resort we were at the paved hills were so steep it felt like something was going to break. Put it in 4x4 and it was fine. This was with stock leafs.
What are your thoughts?
Tranny was looked at and oil changed.
New BDS 4" lift - had same issue prior to lift, though stock springs were worn.
Searched the form but really didn't come up with anything at this low of speed. While in Wisconsin the resort we were at the paved hills were so steep it felt like something was going to break. Put it in 4x4 and it was fine. This was with stock leafs.
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 424
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From: Missouri
Drive shaft and U joints/ slip are all new and greased, happens at every step hill not just that one. Trans & Transfer mounts seem tight. How difficult are they to change? Do we have a how to on them?
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Northern California
why did you install a new drive shaft ?
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 424
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From: Missouri
Not sure if it started before or after the new drive shaft, I replaced the drive shaft tube and slip joint due to a vibration I was getting at higher speeds. That is resolved now. The rumble did accrue with stock suspension and now BDS lift. The tranny mount looks pretty straight forward to change and only run $20. Will give that a go and see what happens, not going to hold my breath though. lol Local guy was stumped by what would cause it (per conversation on the phone). The hill is in a busy baseball park so I may look under the truck while my wife slow drives up the hill and see what I see.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Northern California
my experience with broken mounts is they cause more of a clunk then a rumble. I think you are looking for a rotating part to be the source of a rumble.
I'd be more inclined to suspect a torque converter, wheel bearing or something of that nature that is being loaded under high torque situations. the fact that it goes away in 4wd when the load is distributed to the front axle leads me to think it is in the rear axle but I wouldn't rule out the Tranny.
edit....or the driveline. could be the angle or a part of the driveline that was not replaced like a yoke or joint.
I'd be more inclined to suspect a torque converter, wheel bearing or something of that nature that is being loaded under high torque situations. the fact that it goes away in 4wd when the load is distributed to the front axle leads me to think it is in the rear axle but I wouldn't rule out the Tranny.
edit....or the driveline. could be the angle or a part of the driveline that was not replaced like a yoke or joint.
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 424
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From: Missouri
Rear wheel bearings are new, they were warn so just replaced them a few months ago. Had pinion angles adjusted when lift was installed. Tranny was inspected and fluid changed 3 months ago, the only thing under that truck that has not been looked at is the rear end. I changed the fluid in it a few years ago and put fords slip inhibitor in there for the very limited slip. Rear end rebuild with ring / pinion and true track is $1100. Would like to confirm its that before I take that leap of faith.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Northern California
fwiw, when diagonising a NVH my rule is to always start with the wheels and work inwards. with your symptoms I would check the rims for cracks around the lug holes as well as inspect the bevel surface the lug nuts seat against. make sure back mounting surface is free of oxidation and the rotor mounting surface is also corrosion free. then reinstall and torque to spec.
while you have the wheel off check the wheel bearing play and do a visual check for a cracked rotor and give the caliper a once over just because.
any shiny spots, leaks, or looseness can be a vital hint.
while you have the wheel off check the wheel bearing play and do a visual check for a cracked rotor and give the caliper a once over just because.
any shiny spots, leaks, or looseness can be a vital hint.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Northern California
shouldn't be any need to take leaps of faith and randomly start replacing parts.
confirm the source and then fix or replace.
as far as "new xxx ago" don't fall into the can't be that because it is new trap. often times new parts installed either incorrectly or onto a worn out component will not fix the original problem. every part needs to be considered a suspect. many a tech has chased his tail looking for a problem simply because they failed to consider the new part suspect.
confirm the source and then fix or replace.
as far as "new xxx ago" don't fall into the can't be that because it is new trap. often times new parts installed either incorrectly or onto a worn out component will not fix the original problem. every part needs to be considered a suspect. many a tech has chased his tail looking for a problem simply because they failed to consider the new part suspect.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
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From: Northern California
I am not claiming it IS the wheel bearing buy that makes a good example.
old bearings could have been loose causing a noise, new bearings get installed and the noise goes away briefly until the new bearings loosen up due to not being installed with the correct preload. noise returns but everybody refuses to consider or check them because they are " new"
diagonising a NVH is best done methodically. it takes a good dose of intuition and patients sometimes. stick with it and you will figure it out.
old bearings could have been loose causing a noise, new bearings get installed and the noise goes away briefly until the new bearings loosen up due to not being installed with the correct preload. noise returns but everybody refuses to consider or check them because they are " new"
diagonising a NVH is best done methodically. it takes a good dose of intuition and patients sometimes. stick with it and you will figure it out.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,997
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From: South Eastern Michigan
This is interesting. I was going to say rear wheel bearings because the thrust face changes when on a slope but if they're new.....
I have issues with the rear diff in my truck. It makes a subtle rumbling sound when I simply maintain speed or slowly let off the throttle, more pronounced at higher speeds.
If you find nothing rubbing via witness marks, nothing loose, it may be an internal issue.
I have issues with the rear diff in my truck. It makes a subtle rumbling sound when I simply maintain speed or slowly let off the throttle, more pronounced at higher speeds.
If you find nothing rubbing via witness marks, nothing loose, it may be an internal issue.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Northern California
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,997
Likes: 206
From: South Eastern Michigan
Yeah, Im going to start collecting parts and do the whole thing eventually. Gears, bearings, clutches (maybe a tru trak)....I like the all at once approach.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Northern California
