Engine rebuild in my future
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More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 581
Likes: 113
From: New Hampshire
Engine rebuild in my future
1975 Highboy, bone stock 360 and auto trans.
Decided to finally deal with my intake manifold oil leak this coming weekend.
Figured that I'd check out the compression numbers just to be on the safe side.
All plugs looked perfect with about 1200 miles on them.
All cylinders came in at 95 to 108 PSI except for #4; it came in at 55 PSI.
I squirted some oil into #4 and retested with no change to the compression reading, still 55PSI.
That's indicating a bad valve correct?
How much $$$ am I looking at to rebuild stock 360 heads be at local machine shops?
Thanks
Tbruz
Decided to finally deal with my intake manifold oil leak this coming weekend.
Figured that I'd check out the compression numbers just to be on the safe side.
All plugs looked perfect with about 1200 miles on them.
All cylinders came in at 95 to 108 PSI except for #4; it came in at 55 PSI.
I squirted some oil into #4 and retested with no change to the compression reading, still 55PSI.
That's indicating a bad valve correct?
How much $$$ am I looking at to rebuild stock 360 heads be at local machine shops?
Thanks
Tbruz
Last edited by tbruz; May 3, 2016 at 07:59 AM. Reason: Corrected typo on head size
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
What's your budget?
Why not step up to a 390? The careful selection of quality parts can yield upwards of 400 HP with gobs of torque....
Performer RPM heads
Performer RPM intake
Harland Sharp roller rockers and shafts
750 cfm carb
.550 lift or more roller cam
Aim for 10.25 compression for pump gas
Hypereutectic pistons
ARP hardware
.. stock rods and crankshaft.
Why not step up to a 390? The careful selection of quality parts can yield upwards of 400 HP with gobs of torque....
Performer RPM heads
Performer RPM intake
Harland Sharp roller rockers and shafts
750 cfm carb
.550 lift or more roller cam
Aim for 10.25 compression for pump gas
Hypereutectic pistons
ARP hardware
.. stock rods and crankshaft.
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 581
Likes: 113
From: New Hampshire
This truck is a weekend toy only, no need to haul or work with it so a hi-performance rebuild would be a waste of money. I plan to keep it as Ford stock as possible, rebuild the stock heads, new head bolts, intake bolts, timing chain and gears while I have it apart.
The original 2150 carb had already been rebuilt as has the transmission.
Thanks
Tbruz
The original 2150 carb had already been rebuilt as has the transmission.
Thanks
Tbruz
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 581
Likes: 113
From: New Hampshire
Worked on it for two hours today and got the intake off:
Holy Crap that thing is HEAVY!
Will pop off the heads tomorrow am and get them off to the machine shop on Monday.
Looks like it might be easier to leave the exhaust manifolds on when I pull the heads off. Any thoughts or guidance appreciated
Also I have no idea how I am going to be able to drop the intake back on once the head work is done and I'm in rebuild mode.
Again suggestions appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Tbruz
Holy Crap that thing is HEAVY!
Will pop off the heads tomorrow am and get them off to the machine shop on Monday.
Looks like it might be easier to leave the exhaust manifolds on when I pull the heads off. Any thoughts or guidance appreciated
Also I have no idea how I am going to be able to drop the intake back on once the head work is done and I'm in rebuild mode.
Again suggestions appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Tbruz
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,005
Likes: 63
From: Eastern, Idaho
The easiest way to put the intake back on is get a cherry picker or engine hoist. Second to that is get an aluminum intake. Density of aluminum is less than half that of cast iron.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
The stock intake weighs 80 pounds... and aftermarket aluminum intake weighs 25 pounds. Installing the cast iron intake is best as a two-man job since intakes need to be set in squarely.
Tip: Ditch the cork end gaskets and use RTV to seal the intake. Apply the RTV like TIG welds with a daub-move-daub-move motion. I also recommend dimpling the block walls with a punch to increase friction...and to wipe them with acetone prior to application of the RTV.
Lastly, replace the heater hose elbow if corroded and use the correct 90-degree fitting.
Tip: Ditch the cork end gaskets and use RTV to seal the intake. Apply the RTV like TIG welds with a daub-move-daub-move motion. I also recommend dimpling the block walls with a punch to increase friction...and to wipe them with acetone prior to application of the RTV.
Lastly, replace the heater hose elbow if corroded and use the correct 90-degree fitting.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 329
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From: Deer park, Wa.
If I'm dealing with an iron manifold I screw some all thread, cut to the proper length, in the vertical bolt holes to act as a guide as I lower the mani. That helps to keep the gaskets in place. I have an engine hoist but still do this anyway.
I'm with orangeford.....go aluminum!!
The heads are way heavy also!!! Good luck with it.
I'm with orangeford.....go aluminum!!
The heads are way heavy also!!! Good luck with it.
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 581
Likes: 113
From: New Hampshire
Unfortunately no lightweight intake is in my future: I'm keeping it bone stock the way it came from FORD and period correct wherever I can.
I will be ditching the cork china wall ends and dimpling prior to applying the "Right Stuff".
HIO Is this the correct 90 degree fitting? Hope so as this one looks fine.
The two port vacuum switch next to this fitting is somewhat loose; the upper portion twists about 10 degrees; doesn't feel right to me so I'll be replacing that.
Thanks
Tbruz
I will be ditching the cork china wall ends and dimpling prior to applying the "Right Stuff".
HIO Is this the correct 90 degree fitting? Hope so as this one looks fine.
The two port vacuum switch next to this fitting is somewhat loose; the upper portion twists about 10 degrees; doesn't feel right to me so I'll be replacing that.
Thanks
Tbruz
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 581
Likes: 113
From: New Hampshire
Got the heads off today; little bit lighter than the manifold.
Was hoping to see obvious signs of valve issue to confirm my compression check and oil squirt testing but I did not see anything obvious.
Machine shop should be able to confirm if there were in fact leaking valves correct?
Looks like no one has been into this engine before me.
Thanks
Tbruz
Was hoping to see obvious signs of valve issue to confirm my compression check and oil squirt testing but I did not see anything obvious.
Machine shop should be able to confirm if there were in fact leaking valves correct?
Looks like no one has been into this engine before me.
Thanks
Tbruz
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 2,216
Likes: 324
From: Central Florida
One of the most irritating and perplexing issues that can befall an FE engine builder is getting the intake manifold to fit w/o leaks (water, oil or vacuum). This situation is made more difficult by 1) sticking with cast iron and 2) doing the work with the engine still in the truck.
If you're lucky, none of the palaver above will be relevant to you but, if not, brace yourself and stock up on fortitude.
If you're lucky, none of the palaver above will be relevant to you but, if not, brace yourself and stock up on fortitude.
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 581
Likes: 113
From: New Hampshire
Thanks HIO for the tip; it worked great.
Just tried it out and the suspect chamber, #4 leaks!
By comparison, the three other chambers on that head do not leak.
Looks like just head work for me.
I am halfway down the road though to convincing myself to pull the entire block though and rebuild it on a stand(versus in the truck) to avoid the head/intake weight issues that Flowney cautioned on.
Truly appreciate all the knowledge and help this board provides; I can't imagine doing this without all you guys behind me.
Thank you
Tbruz
Just tried it out and the suspect chamber, #4 leaks!
By comparison, the three other chambers on that head do not leak.
Looks like just head work for me.
I am halfway down the road though to convincing myself to pull the entire block though and rebuild it on a stand(versus in the truck) to avoid the head/intake weight issues that Flowney cautioned on.
Truly appreciate all the knowledge and help this board provides; I can't imagine doing this without all you guys behind me.
Thank you
Tbruz