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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

ford horn question

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Old Apr 30, 2016 | 08:34 PM
  #1  
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jerryst
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ford horn question

I have a stock column 1955 ford f100. I have converted it to a 12 volt system. I have also a 3 prong horn relay wired into the 12 volt system. Is there a way to test this? I also have a after market steering wheel. On the relay the driver side tab has no power. the middle is hot. And the third is hot. Trying to figure out how to do this. the wiring diagram is realy vague.

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Jerry
 
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Old May 1, 2016 | 08:44 AM
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CBeav
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Typically, horn relays should have a hot wire, a wire to the horn(s) and the wire to the column switch. The column switch grounds the relay, closing the points inside and feeding power to the horns which are grounded at their mounting point. See: Instructions - Mid Fifty F-100 Parts
 
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Old May 4, 2016 | 01:53 PM
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Is there away to test connection. Can I connect the ground side to the horn button and then hook to the relay? This should simulate the horn being depressed. Then the ground should send the power to the horn and it should make sound. This makes sense right?

Thanks

Jerry
 
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Old May 4, 2016 | 03:51 PM
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First, I'm not certain if you have positive or negative ground. In order to circumvent semantics which battery cable is attached to the frame? Just because a certain year is 'supposed' to be one or the other doesn't make it so, especially if it has been converted from 6 to 12 volt.
 
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Old May 10, 2016 | 12:58 AM
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Sorry I have been working a lot. My negative side of the battery is bolted to the frame.

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Jerry
 
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Old May 10, 2016 | 06:06 PM
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From my very recent experience: How did you convert to 12V? Is it a kit? Is everything fed through a fuse terminal? Does that terminal have a built in relay?
With the EZ wire kit, my power line runs from the fuse terminal to the horn, (either plug as they are insulated), from the other plug back to the horn wire coming out of the end of the steering column, (or where ever your horn lead exits). That completes your circuit. A relay isn't required because the fuse terminal essentially has an internal relay. You should be able to test it by ensuring you have a power line to the horn, then grounding the line from the steering column.
 
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Old May 10, 2016 | 06:07 PM
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It's a pretty simple system. The horn button, when depressed, should ground the coil inside the relay causing it to close the points and pass power to the horns. To test the horn switch to the relay connect a test light lead to the POSITIVE side of the battery (or any nearby positive source.) Place the tip of the test light to the relay terminal that connects to the wire from the horn switch. When you depress the horn switch the test light should illuminate. If it doesn't you need to determine if the switch or wire is bad. If it lights up use a small jumper wire to connect the power terminal on the relay to the terminal that goes to the horn(s). If they work that portion is good, if not use a jumper to supply power to the terminals on the horns to determine if they work. If the horn button circuit proves good and the horn side works you probably have a bad relay.

p.s. A dedicated relay should always be used on a horn circuit
 
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