confused overdrive questions
I got a diagnostic and it did not show codes. I was told the trani has had an oil change and filter with no metal parts in the oil.
Since the overdrive switch is know for a short in the steering column maybe when they looked at it they did not know what they were doing.
I am driving it only once or so a week. But don't want to hurt it. Any suggestions.
A friend did the first work and had it diagnostic done yesterday.
Is your 95 OBD-2 diagnostics, with the DLC = (Data Link Connector = the scan tool connector) in the cab, under dash, to the left of the steering wheel, or is it under hood on the firewall = OBD-1 diagnostics????
Do you know what kind of scan tool was used to scan for trouble codes & if it was able to access & query the tranny computer/controller, or was it only able to scan the engine computer/controller????
This info could help us determine if you might be able to come by a more in depth scan for trouble code clues with something like the up level, but inexpensive ELM scan tool & running FORScan or the like software on your viewing device, which can access the tranny computer on OBD-2 diagnostic equipped vehicles.
I will be back if I need more idea's Thanks again.
So, if you like doing your own diagnostics, or turning your own wrenches, or would like to begin learning how, the ELM & FORScan or the like software would make a fine tool for your electronic tool box, it sure has for me!!!!
Again if your 95 is OBD-2 diagnostics, the ELM will work, if it's still ODD-1 & some 95's were, the ELM won't work with that early diagnostic system. 95 was the transition year for change over to the OBD-2 diagnostic system on Rangers.
More thoughts for consideration. If you come up with tranny trouble codes, post All code Number clues, as they can help focus your trouble shoot.
Let us know how it goes.
Check the tranny fluid level & condition by parking level, with it having been driven say 10 miles out & back, so the tranny fluid is at operating temperature, then after slowly shifting into All gears, including "R" & ending in "P", at warm idle, raise the engine hood, remove the tranny dipstick & check the fluid level & condition.
The fluid should be a clear pink color & be between the Max & Min marks. Over or under filling can aerate the tranny fluid & it's pump won't like trying to pump fluid with air bubbles in it, as it'll corrupt line pressure & cause the tranny to slip, or otherwise act out.
So check the fluid level & color as stated, or as called out in your Owner Manual & post what you find. Do this first, before taking it to a tranny shop.
OBD = On Board Diagnostics, 1 was the first generation diagnostic system, 2 was the second generation & was Way more capable in having the onboard computer be able to tell us what hurts, by storing code numbers for many more conditions & for many more vehicle systems, that we can access with a upper level scan tool & then go to a file that interprets what the code number clue means.
Most after market code readers, or scan tools can only scan the engine computer, higher end models that upper end garages & tranny shops use & the inexpensive ELM we now have access to, can query the Engine, Transmission, ABS = Antilock Brake System, Body, ect computer/controllers, so can give us a more in depth diagnosis.
If you don't want to do that, then have a Trusted tranny shop have a look at the tranny computer for trouble code clues, or go with them on a test drive & post up All code Numbers, or what they find on the test drive & the forum will try & give you an idea of what to expect.
The trany doesn't slip. I start out slow so it won't burn rubber. Shifting is smooth, The only thing I notice is that in gear there is no hold back when going on curves or slight hills. So I am braking more. I tried down shifting but it was wrong gear because of my speed. I drive it like a little old lady and can't push or it shifts to much, not hard shifting. The old owner said he had a OD light on but that has burned out. There is no response to pushing OD button.
I watched a vid on how to expose the OD switch on the Column. They emphasised that the wires that short out are under a plate. I asked the guy, that checked it and he looked at me odd. That is why I took it for a diagnostic. That was only $50 even if I did not learn anything.
I have a feeling they could only check the computer not the Trany. So not sure what that will cost but I would like to know if it is electrical. If it is in the trany I think I would hear or feel it. It has not gotten hot. Nor do I smell hot oil when I stop.
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The trany doesn't slip. I start out slow so it won't burn rubber. Shifting is smooth, The only thing I notice is that in gear there is no hold back when going on curves or slight hills. So I am braking more. I tried down shifting but it was wrong gear because of my speed. I drive it like a little old lady and can't push or it shifts to much, not hard shifting. The old owner said he had a OD light on but that has burned out. There is no response to pushing OD button.
I watched a vid on how to expose the OD switch on the Column. They emphasised that the wires that short out are under a plate. I asked the guy, that checked it and he looked at me odd. That is why I took it for a diagnostic. That was only $50 even if I did not learn anything.
I have a feeling they could only check the computer not the Trany. So not sure what that will cost but I would like to know if it is electrical. If it is in the trany I think I would hear or feel it. It has not gotten hot. Nor do I smell hot oil when I stop.
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Good that the tranny fluid color is right but maybe not good that it's overfilled, as we don't have any way to know How Much "just above the Max line", is????
As mentioned earlier an over filled tranny can cause the fluid to become aerated & the tranny pump can't make proper line pressure trying to pump fluid with air bubbles in it & that can mess up with how the tranny behaves. Since you live in hill/mountain country, this overfill/fluid aeration possibility, could be a factor.
So, if you believe it's significantly overfilled, with the engine at idle, the tranny fluid warmed to proper temp as suggested above, you could adjust the fluid level by removing the tranny dipstick & inserting a length of tubing that's a couple if feet longer than the dipstick, (so it can't fall into the tranny if it comes loose & be long enough to work with) & connect the tubing to a hand pumps syphon tube, like a marine lower end lube hand pump, which can pump out more per stroke, or a clean hand soap pump, even a spray bottle pump ( both of which don't remove as much per stroke, but the spray bottle can remove more if you open the spray hole with a drill bit), or a syringe, any of the 4, or a like rig, to remove enough fluid to get the level right. EDIT: Note that the engine needs to be running, the vehicle level & the fluid needs to be warmed up to operating temp/hot, for the reading to be accurate.
The fact that the OD light was on at one time tells us that there were trouble code clues stored in the Tranny computer, so if they haven't been erased, a high enough performance level scan tool can extract them.
I think from what your describing about hills & curves that you don't have any, or not much engine braking & if so, that's a sign of a blown valve body plate gasket.
The test for that is to see if you have any engine braking in 1st gear. If not, the gasket is likely leaking fluid pressure internally & needs to be replaced.
The good news is that it can be replaced & Ford has a bonded plate/gasket fix out for it.
If your a good wrench turner, or have a family member, or friend that are, there is a thread on how to do it yourself, so it can be done at home if you like. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...lick-here.html
A tranny shop can do it too, but it'll cost more of your gold.
More thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.
After getting the warmed to operating temp tranny fluid level right, perform the 1st gear engine braking test.
When you shift to 1st gear & let off the gas, you should feel the engine slowing/holding the vehicle back, if not & the fluid level is correct, suspect a valve body gasket problem.
There was no response to the RPM or any response at all when pushing the OD button. The truck tends to stay around 2000 RPM with slight movement when it shifts. The oil doesn't smell burnt.
I will talk to the guy who did the diagnostic and then probably call around she what kind of price I can get on another test. I will let you know
So, where is the fully warmed up fluid fill line on the tranny dip stick now?
Good feedback on the tranny fluid smell test & 1st gear braking test passing, so you can set aside/lower down on the suspect list, the blown valve body cover plate gasket, line pressure thoughts & burned tranny fluid possibility for now.
Good feedback on the engine rpm no response/change, with the OD switch on/off test.
So, we're sorta back to the former owner thoughts about it some how being stuck in OD, maybe because of a short in its wiring as you suspect.
If the OD lamp weren't burned out, & the OD lamp turned on & off with the OD switch, you'd know a wiring short isn't the problem, so right now it remains a unknown.
A proper tranny computer scan should be able to turn up a trouble code clue for a wiring short.
Keep us posted on your trouble shoot.







