Would this radio work?
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 503
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colors are diffrent but where the pins go they dont change but the illumination wire would be the reason why i dont see anything in the radio when i tested it. i had soldered some wires but didn't work but i now have the harness and will try it but first i have to think a way to remove the solder from it.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,038
Likes: 3
From: South Kitsap County, WA
IIRC the headlight switch had one more wire between the two body styles. The backlite on the radio indication would work with the ignition, but when you hit the parking or headlights the radio indication was supposed to dim and the button illumination came on. That's why I had to swap over to a newer style switch and wiring harness. I needed the extra contact in the switch and the wire to get the lights to work right.
I went through two radios to get one where the backlit indication and buttons would even work. Junk yard wanted $50 back when the radio style was only 5 years old. I wanted a digital readout factory radio, though.
-Kerry
I went through two radios to get one where the backlit indication and buttons would even work. Junk yard wanted $50 back when the radio style was only 5 years old. I wanted a digital readout factory radio, though.
-Kerry
Last edited by kspilkinton; Oct 18, 2003 at 10:35 PM.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 503
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81 when i took out the stock one, it had 4 wires only power(which i think has current when truck is off),left and right and the one to the light bulb. i want to connect the the illumination wire from the harness to the one where the light bulb from the radio was but knowing my luck something will go wrong
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,038
Likes: 3
From: South Kitsap County, WA
Can't post you the pic to verify the position (that truck is about 70 miles and a ferry ride away now), but that fifth wire on the newer radio came into play when the tuner/clock indication dimmed. The radio will work, but the lights won't all work.
The reason why I'm pretty sure you'll need a newer model of switch is I think there is a bleeder resistor in the switch that makes the lights in the radio face work right.
My '82 had the same color wire for the dash lights as the light for the lights on the radio face. It was lt blu/purple.
-Kerry
The reason why I'm pretty sure you'll need a newer model of switch is I think there is a bleeder resistor in the switch that makes the lights in the radio face work right.
My '82 had the same color wire for the dash lights as the light for the lights on the radio face. It was lt blu/purple.
-Kerry
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,038
Likes: 3
From: South Kitsap County, WA
The '87-'91 switch I used had a stub of a stock harness attached, so I was able to graft into the existing '82 harness. That's why I found it important to have the wiring diagram for the headlight switch.
The wiring harness looked like Frankenstein's monster at both the headlight switch and the radio, since both were different than what was factory installed.
You could also have a light bulb blow out in the radio face. If my theory about the bleeder resistor in the switch is correct, the radio light may have seen too much juice and popped something. Like I said, I went through two radios to get one to light up right, maybe I did the same thing?
-Kerry
The wiring harness looked like Frankenstein's monster at both the headlight switch and the radio, since both were different than what was factory installed.
You could also have a light bulb blow out in the radio face. If my theory about the bleeder resistor in the switch is correct, the radio light may have seen too much juice and popped something. Like I said, I went through two radios to get one to light up right, maybe I did the same thing?
-Kerry
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 195
Likes: 0
From: Chicago, IL
the problem does not lie in any switch, but the stupid light bulb inside the stereo.
i have a buncha them in my garage.. all late-80's Fords have these stereos and they were troublesome because of the display. not only that but sound quality sucked.
the newer stereos use a flouresecent display.. and in fact, older Ford stereos (first DIN stereos) also used a small flurescent display.. never went out!
anyway if you want to change the bulb, pop open the TOP cover with a screwdriver, and you should see a billion wires. metal crap, and a white plastic box...
on the side of the box is small black tube with 2 wires at the end.. you simply twist that 1/4 turn, then pull out. you should see the light bulb at the very end.. that simply pulls out. they sell those at most auto parts for a dolar or 2..
i have a buncha them in my garage.. all late-80's Fords have these stereos and they were troublesome because of the display. not only that but sound quality sucked.
the newer stereos use a flouresecent display.. and in fact, older Ford stereos (first DIN stereos) also used a small flurescent display.. never went out!
anyway if you want to change the bulb, pop open the TOP cover with a screwdriver, and you should see a billion wires. metal crap, and a white plastic box...
on the side of the box is small black tube with 2 wires at the end.. you simply twist that 1/4 turn, then pull out. you should see the light bulb at the very end.. that simply pulls out. they sell those at most auto parts for a dolar or 2..
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
From: Elimsport, PA
if nothing else works do what I did, go to Wal-Mart and get a Wally-World Special -- a cheap CD player for $50 and for the memory wire run a wire from a hot-wire from a user interface connection on the fusebox to the orange memory wire and the hot wire from the CD player to the ignition switch wire for the old radio and ground the radio to the ground wire.
:-staun hehe (I like this lil' icon)
:-staun hehe (I like this lil' icon)
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
From: Elimsport, PA