here is a video after the break in gave it a day too cool then did a little more tunning and put up this short video of it running.

now a couple days later I start it up one morning and lots of white blueish smoke out the exhaust non stop. I put at least 6 or 7 hours and 300 to 400 miles on it over the last few days. now it seems to get worse and worse with the smoke pouring out the exhaust ......clouds. and it was not doing that the past several days.

did some more tunning and put a 6.5 holley power valve in the 2150 that helped lean it out some from off idle on which was great. and some ignition tuning.

I thought oh no blown head gasket and anti freeze but it is positively oil.

thick black oil caked all around exhaust muffler exit.
also noticed a small thick oily drip from the top of the #7 exhaust runner building up dripping from the top down over the exhaust manifold. like a thick runny carbon molasas drip really slow.... last few days so its very small build up. now like 2 inches long and spreading slow.



lead me to think bad guide but it couldnt be that bad to burn out like that.

I drove it over to my machinist this friday and we looked it over awhile, Im going to inspect it this evening or tomorrow evening.

all the spark plugs are clean not rich at all.

I will do a compression test and try to do a leak down as well to see if the rings are no good??

idle is not as low as it should be an not so smooth and bangs into gear a little. which I know autolite 2150 is good so its just stock 71 ported 400m heads, edelbrock springs and edelbrock 70s era performer 400 intake manifold with their 2 barrel egr adaptor for the manifold. am still using the heat riser tubes.(possibly leaking there) On the break in run I heard a faint whistle but could not narrow it down and seems to not be present any more.

on vaccum reading I was not getting a steady idle reading it was hair line shaking but steady. around 18hg only when i moved advance to 14 and that was too hi rpm. it likes 10 to 12 and gets maybe 16 lbs of vacuum.

Im thinking not a good valve lapping or valve seat and too bad there is no valve adjustment on this.

also read something about condensation? I was getting low oil pressure today also on a short around town drive. which was not present the last few days so pulled over and topped off another quart of 20w 50.

tomorrow afternoon will check compression and hopefully leak down as well as remove valve covers.

maybe try the other heat riser tube I have because I think this one gave me issues before the rebuild when it was stock I just didnt want to bend that one up in case I go back to the stock intake.

any though as to what this oil burning and ruff running idle could be?

 

I cant imagine what happend. its not been doing it the past few day and there is no stud to pull loose so it must be a bad valve. I know these valve have a reputation for that.

will update tomorrow earlier evening when I get into the motor.

 

Is it an auto trans? Could be sucking fluid through the vacuum modulator.

 

My guess is a broken 2nd ring.

 

its possibly that bad or worse or less worse.....draining the antifreeze now...

seems that the number three intake lifter and pushrod got loose.

1) could have been that after I oil soaked the lifters I left it sit a month before I actually did the break in and maybe it didnt get pressure
2) doubt it was actually a faulty lifter but possibly
3)most likely the valve got adjusted on the wrong part of the lobe?!!

any way I was able to fish out the pushrod and it was fine no damage to it but the lifter is still floating around in the valley I hope.

This issue has been present since break in so that intake on number three never got to see any air in it.

what could the damages be like?

possbily bad cam lobe, bad lifter at best.

how about to the clyinder. do you think it can self recover after a oil blasting like that in the combustion chamber I know its asking for trouble to not at least remove the head and clean it out. maybe give it a sea foam treatment.

really is harsh to think about on a fresh build!!

how about rings and the combustion chamber and pistons getting dirty is about the worse on that side.

sounds like at least a new cam and lifter set. and one head removal and refresh.

Any thoughts...

I will post back in a few hours an inspect the cam lobe and see how this missing lifter looks.

Probably pressurise it with a little gas/sea foam and marvel mystery oil mix through the spark plug hole to clean it a little...

 

I wouldn't get to crazy on the idea of cleaning the cylinder it will be fine. Wipe the coolant out and dry it the best you can. Hose it down with a little wd-40 and figure out the rest of the issue. I can't believe the lifter isn't in the bore but it should be laying in the valley. Something doesn't add up here to why this happened and I doubt there's a ring problem at this point.

 

yes I cant believe this happened as I never head any think out of place or any mechanical sounds from the engine from initial start to.

I did a few bumps of the engine to turn it over just to get the timing in so this must have happened even before the break in which leads me to believe bad rocker arm adjustment on the wrong part of the lobe.

just about to pull the intake...may try to fish for it another few minutes before pulling the intake.

 

everything looks good as new in there as far as cam lobe....oiled my finger and stroked it and lifter never even ground the top of the fresh valve so the rocker never went down on it...any way got the valve train working proper so will have to go on a late run to a far away orielleys to get a new intake gasket then break it in tomorrow morning and let it cool till monday then give it a go finally.

hopefully the new lifter takes with no issues an new spark plugs of course.

hopefully my whole exhaust system does have that burnt oil stench for ever haah

 

hardly noticeable but luckily spotted the number three cylinder in additon to the popped off pushrod on the intake also had the number 3 exhaust pushrod bent too.

I know that is somewhat common on these with the canted valves.

I had planned to get the edelbrock hardend steel pushrods origionally but was having trouble getting them in time for the build so used the stock ones that where in it running fine before the rebuild...didnt like the added spring pressure this time.

any good recommendations for good pushrods..are the .010 longer edelbrock hardened steel the go to choice or what would be a good choice from comp cams? they seem steeper then I remember at about $120 but worth it this time around.

any comp cam hi energy experience?

Im leaning toward this Prw brand since they are black oxide treated.

and upon other origional 400m block tear downs I have seen the pushrods have rust issues. from what idk but was present on a recent other 1971 400 i got that was origional still running and upon tear down all the pushrods had some rust build up.

 

ended up finding four bad lifters too. not on the surface those were all pretty good but on the preload of the hydraulics didnt see pressure.

mainly the worst one was the one the pushrod came out of. the rest just slightly bad.

did end up replacing them and did a another breakin in additave and ran it.

seems much much better but slightly choppy. its way smoother all around epecially big difference down low and on idle. hope it will get better with driving.

I think some more overhaul is in order. at least want to upgrade the pushrods. most likely get the heads off an get some better rocker arms on.

the heads are machined for viton seals so I guess its time to put some more into them and send them back to percision cylinder head for upgrades im reading up on.

at least all that smoke burning stopped.

and when I get the heads out for valve train upgrades Ill have to see what I can work out to get a replacement cam and lfiter set from manufacture.

will update the difference im driving tomorrow.

 

Not to doubt your mechanical skill, but it is VERY easy to put the compression rings on upside down, just a thought. The dot should be on the top side of the piston. I do not know if you re-ringed it or not..... GOOD LUCK hope its cheap!!!


edit: just re-read your last post. I skipped the line of it stopped smoking....