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here you go old girl loved that truck 5.4 had to gear here down too 4.30 lol just to plow and pull trailer that's why i have 6.7 now never going back to gas
Im not sure how they aligned it or if they used shims. When I saw the truck all done up and how well it looked I kinda got lost in the excitement, there was nothing about shims on the bill either. I did some quick research and found a lot about shims and drop brackets. Is there one company thats better then the other for this kind of stuff and is it something I can install myself with basic tools? Im not even sure if it something i need yet but still good to know.
here you go old girl loved that truck 5.4 had to gear here down too 4.30 lol just to plow and pull trailer that's why i have 6.7 now never going back to gas
I did my 2.5" kit in my driveway, it came with bigger blocks for the rear. The following week I got 35' tires installed and I had the tire shop do an alignment.
That was 8k miles ago. since then I have had zero issues with the truck I did loose about 2mpg overall but that number can be a little skewed because I have not yet brought the truck to the dealer to have the speedometer re-calibrated.
Other than that I love the look it was just enough lift to change it for the better. I plan on changing my stock shocks to some Bilstien HD's but I haven't gotten around to it yet.
Im not sure how they aligned it or if they used shims. When I saw the truck all done up and how well it looked I kinda got lost in the excitement, there was nothing about shims on the bill either. I did some quick research and found a lot about shims and drop brackets. Is there one company thats better then the other for this kind of stuff and is it something I can install myself with basic tools? Im not even sure if it something i need yet but still good to know.
I would ask kindly for the alignment results and see what they were able to achieve. If it drives fine and you have at least 2-2.5* then just drive it and enjoy. Some real numbers would help others who want to do the same.
I'm surprised nobody has mentioned the front axle tracking when raising the front.
The axle shifts to the drivers side when raised any amount.
Doesn't hurt anything but looks stupid to me.
I've lifted trucks for 30+ yrs & always lengthen bar, installed drop bracket or installed an Adjustable Tracking Bar aka a Panhard bar ... for some reason lol
That's not an issue at all with a proper lift all you need is a traction relocation mount like ReadyLift makes, or a adjustable traction bar simple enough never had Axel sit to one side take care
I'm surprised nobody has mentioned the front axle tracking when raising the front.
The axle shifts to the drivers side when raised any amount.
Doesn't hurt anything but looks stupid to me.
I've lifted trucks for 30+ yrs & always lengthen bar, installed drop bracket or installed an Adjustable Tracking Bar aka a Panhard bar ... for some reason lol
My axle did shift towards the drivers side. When I first noticed it I just took it as I bough low price mass produced rims but your post has me wondering now. Whats the best way to go about solving this problem
I'd suggest the Fabtech Adjustable Tracking Bar.
I like it because its adjustable ON the Truck with both ends mounted & tightened down.
I'm sure there's other brands like this too tho.
You wanna keep the tracking rod AND drag link on the same angles to handle properly as suspension compresses.
A drop tracking arm bracket gets the two on different angłes unless you use a drop pitman arm WITH it - which isn't necessary with 2.5" or Less Lift.
I use a plumb-bob on a string hanging from each fender lip down to the tires & adjust tracking rod WITH IGN KEY SWITCH ON so the steering can turn, until your tires are centered under the truck.
THEN adjust drag link to center your steering wheel.
No need for alignment as long as you ONLY adjust the drag link going to the pitman arm on gearbox ON 4WD F250 & F350. 2wd IFS is different.
Im no expert but I've lifted Fords for 30+ yrs & this is my theory.
Lifted OR leveled 4wd strait axle is certainly ok without adj tracking bar "IF" you don't mind it dog walking with front axle shifted to the left side.
On a 2" leveling kit on about 10 different trucks that I've installed them on it was less than a 1/4". I'm not saying a an adjustable trackbar wouldn't be ideal, just that's all you are correcting. Even with 3" lift on my '11 it was just under 3/8".
It all depends how much springs have settled
IF a snow plow is involved ... etc
Best I can remember, my 2008 needed 5/8" to center axle back dead center with 2" leveling spacer blocks I put Under the stock frt springs.
Geometry + math;
Track bar:
Stock - length = 37”, angle = 8.5 degrees
2” lift - angle = 11.7 degrees, change in horizontal distance = 0.4” to the left, change in angle = +3.2 degrees.
The sway bar end links begin to have issues with >0.5" mis-alignment. At 3.5" of lift the right spring will contact the spring bucket on the frame and needs correction.
You will destroy the trac bar ball joint boot if you install an adjustable bar. The boot is molded into the ball joint and is not replaceable by itself. Replacing the trac bar ball joint is not simple and needs a large ball joint press.
Note that the drag link and trac bar are different lengths, and the angles relative to one another change as suspension cycles.