Guys, I'm getting ready to do the ball joints on my '01 Ex. Have the ball joints, seals, etc... I'm also going to replace the DS unit bearing - it's the only O.E. bearing on the rig that hasn't been replaced. While I've got the axles out, I was considering replacing u-joints, including the drive shaft, as well (and greasing the slip yoke).

Where I'm confused at is the part number; I've seen them all over the map.

Are the Spicer SPL-55-4X the correct ones for the front axles?

Are the Spicer 5-1410's the correct ones for the rear driveshaft?

Thanks guys!!

Brian

 

How long ago was the passenger side unit bearing done? Expect to replace it if it's been more than two or three months... They pull apart far to easily if they don't just fall off with some moderate dead blow smacks. If your dust seals are in bad shape, they'll need to get pressed on. You can make your own tool for about $12 from Home Depot.

Personally I used the 2nd write up in the tech sticky to do mine with Razzi, and there is a link in there on what you need to build your own tool.

 

yes those are correct.

the 4x is greasable the 3x is non greasable

just an FYI..
while I am a big fan of lubercation I have a hard time imagining anybody running a excursion in 4wd to ever wear out a joint.
the non greasable are marginally stronger but with the 30 spline axle shafts that really doesn't factor in since the shaft usually will break first.

 

Matt,


That's disheartening to hear... The PS bearing was done in April 2015.



I bought new seals and the seal tool before I saw the 'make your own' version.

 

I was kind of thinking that way also. I can count the number of times on one hand I've engaged 4wd since I've had the Ex. I may pass up on the front u-joints. I'm probably over thinking everything - with 155k on it's clock, I was just looking at it like 'ok, replace everything'. I'm still arguing with myself over the inner axle seals...

Thanks for the info!

 

I'm at 266,xxx and still on original front u-joints. When I had the shafts out for the ball joints we checked them over - still good. No slop, no binding, just normal movement. Having shafts that sit idle until hubs and 4wd is engaged is glorious!

Bummer on the tool good sir, I almost bought one until I saw that link in the write up a few days before the weekend of hellish balljoint replacement. The unit bearing comes from three different ones pulling apart back to back. The press fit of the inner rollers and outer bearing race isn't exactly meant to withstand tensile extension of the bearing is seized. Normally not an issue since if you're using that tool, the bearings are most likely getting replaced or it's a whole front end rebuild. But for those just trying to get at a different component, it usually spells death for the unit bearing. One of mine was less than a year old, the other was literally half that. One pulled apart and the other shifted out of the race by about 1/8". Considering that's what holds the wheel on, I wasn't risking it.

 

And I guess that's my conundrum right now... Only the driver's side ball joints are showing any play - and it's about 1/4 of movement, occasional popping and squeaking. Since the PS isn't making any movement or noise, I might hold off - I didn't budget another $215 for that bearing - again. I'd have to check with Autozone for the warranty; I did get the Timken bearing - which they don't sell anymore - since I'm removing it, I doubt it's covered...

 

Do yourself a huge favor and soak everything in penetrating oil. All of it - nuts, bolts, flanges... the whole 9 yards. It'll make life a hell of a lot easier, and hopefully can help persuade that passenger side bearing to come off with minimal brutality.

On the Jeeps, we would have somebody hold up a beefy and long deep socket against the backside of one of the bolts that holds the unit bearing on. You loosen all of them, and remove all but one. That one should be about 3/4 loosened. Then while they held it, you would start the engine and gently and slowly turn the steering wheel until the socket was held in place. Then the helper moves clear and safe, and you continue to turn the wheel. The power steering acts as a hydraulic press to remove the bearing off the flange.

I don't know why I JUST remembered that, I would have loved to test it on the D50. I also do not know if there is a way for that to work for ours or not, but it's worth a look. Since you're pressing from the backside, it has zero impact on the press fit for the bearing race.

 

That's the plan. Thursday night I'll be soaking everything down and starting work Friday morning.

 

Matt,

Well, the job is done now, but, I have a question about your Jeep method. Here's what I did:

1. Removed everything from the steering knuckle
2. Removed the 4 nuts holding the unit bearing to the steering knuckle
3. Using a small hammer and a small pry bar, I lightly tapped the pry bar between the unit bearing flange and steering knuckle, to separate the unit bearing from the steering knuckle
4. I repeated this at all four corners (where the studs for the unit bearing are) until I could remove the unit bearing with my hands.

To me, this would have the same effect as you described above - being able to remove the unit bearing without using a tension force (jaw puller) that could possibly separate the hub from the unit bearing.

 

On mine it was hopeless and we were about to start marring the mating surface between the knuckle and the bearing. Both bearings were completely seized to the surface and we had exhausted every method that had come to mind.

 

Did you try C4?

 

Like boom C4?

 

ROTFLMAO!

I actually heard your voice in my head saying those words as I read them.



And yeah, I'm sure he meant *BOOM*

Stewart

 

Yes. I meant *BOOM* C4, lol.

Many times I've wanted to do that while working on any of my vehicles, lol.