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Anyway......... after that is there like some special kind of paint I should put on it? like epoxy paint/acrylic paint.
I will caution you about products like POR15. They work great when applied on properly prepared surfaces but can be trouble if not. Be sure to follow the directions on the package. Taking short-cuts could cause more damage than coating with nothing at all.
Whatever paint/primer type product you use be sure to apply at least two coats AND a third and even fourth coat on rust pitted areas. I usually start by applying a coat to the area with the deepest pitting. After that area is sticky but does not transfer to my finger when I touch it I add a second,third and even fourth coat, ending with the areas with the least amount of pitting.
The "pinhole" type of pits are the most troublesome and require the most coats. Other pits are smooth like waves in the surface of a lake. These require fewer coats.
After going the powder coat and Chassis Saver routes I now would just epoxy prime and shoot a nice coat of whatever brand single stage you want. Keeping it simple means repairs to the finish are simple too. Stuff happens.
Look at this pic (upper) for 6A023 .. this is the rear engine support bracket (some people call a cross member) that the rear motor (trans) mount (6068) bolts to.
As you can see it bolts on. Trans shop probably cut it out to save time.
Look at this pic (upper) for 6A023 .. this is the rear engine support bracket (some people call a cross member) that the rear motor (trans) mount (6068) bolts to.
As you can see it bolts on. Trans shop probably cut it out to save time.
The "crossmember" they cut out is in between the 6A023 and the engine block mounts. I'm sure they cut it out so they wouldn't have to pull the engine (like you said; to save time). The rear motor/trans mount is still there in perfect condition. I'll get pics tomorrow if that will help. It's directly below where the bellhousing would sit.
Thanks for the pictures though, that breaks everything down on the chassis and gives me a more in depth view on it.
The "crossmember" they cut out is in between the 6A023 and the engine block mounts. I'm sure they cut it out so they wouldn't have to pull the engine (like you said; to save time). The rear motor/trans mount is still there in perfect condition.
6A023 rear engine support bracket not shown in upper pic.
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 1 = 800-543-4959.
MCDONALD OBSOLETE PARTS CO. in Rockport IN has 1 = 812-359-4965.
Sweet thanks for the help man.
Another question I was wanting to ask, do you know anything about the seat belt light? My truck's trim is custom I believe. I was kind of wanting to get that working again. Someone cut the wire leading to the seat belt buckle and I have no idea about it.
Another question I was wanting to ask, do you know anything about the seat belt light? My truck's trim is custom I believe. I was kind of wanting to get that working again. Someone cut the wire leading to the seat belt buckle and I have no idea about it.
Look at this picture at lower left for basic part number 10B924 = Seat Belt Warning Indicator Switch which includes the buzzer.
D6AZ-10B924-B (Motorcraft SW-1387) .. 1978/79 F100/350, Bronco & Econoline...but not all these vehicles came with it.
You'll have to look behind the dash to see if your truck has it.