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HPOP Input Needed

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Old Apr 18, 2016 | 01:17 PM
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HPOP Input Needed

I'm in the process of gathering a list of everything I need to replace while replacing a lifter that has (is going) bad. Knowing I will need to pull the HPOP to get to the back set, I'm debating replacing the factory HPOP while I'm in that deep. The truck is a 2006, has 279,000 miles on it, all by me.

I've already bullet-proofed the majority of the engine with head studs/gaskets remaining which will be replaced as part of this venture.

Short of the lifter issue the truck seems to run fine, so I don't have any real reason to replace the HPOP other than the mileage and the fact I'll have the cab off, engine out making it an opportune time to do so.

Any recommendations on which manufacturer to go with for replacement? Any you would absolutely shy away from? Any input would be appreciated...

Rusty
 
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Old Apr 18, 2016 | 05:15 PM
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Hey Rusty , the later style V4 cast iorn pump is a pretty solid piece. I understand your thinking about the mileage and doing a fresh pump though. No bad press for the pumps from Ford, Ed (ficmrepair.com) Will have a much better price than your local dealership. With the lifter issue, I'd be more worried about the low pressure pump. It's common for it to get some FOD cranked through it when a lifter fails.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2016 | 11:27 PM
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Thanks for the reply. I'm hoping I caught the lifter before it started coughing up needle bearings or screwing up the cam, but won't really know until I pull them to see what I've got. At present I've just got the "chirping" under the hood after checking/replacing all the obvious suspects. Any good way to check he LPOP to make sure I don't have any crap in it? I would assume pulling the pan to see if I have anything there would be advisable as well?

So, you'd replace the HPOP with a Ford part as opposed to an aftermarket (reman Bostec, Alliant, etc.)? Good to know.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2016 | 05:24 PM
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I am having the oil cooler, egr cooler replaced and turbo cleaned this weekend on my 2004 E350.

I asked the mechanic that is doing the installation about the HPOP on this year and he said these pumps are a known failure point.

I found a rebuilt HPOP for $531 from Tousley Ford. This van has been rebuilt multiple times but I do not have any service records as the PO lost everything.

Would any of you replace the HPOP as preventative maintenance when you have so much removed already?
 
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Old Apr 19, 2016 | 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by coolfeet
I am having the oil cooler, egr cooler replaced and turbo cleaned this weekend on my 2004 E350.

I asked the mechanic that is doing the installation about the HPOP on this year and he said these pumps are a known failure point.

I found a rebuilt HPOP for $531 from Tousley Ford. This van has been rebuilt multiple times but I do not have any service records as the PO lost everything.

Would any of you replace the HPOP as preventative maintenance when you have so much removed already?
Good idea on any 6.0 if you have access and some miles/unknown history on the HPOP, but a NO BRAINER on a van.

Also a NO BRAINER to get the Adrenaline pump for a van. Spend the extra dough and get a pump you know will work out of the box, the fact you own a van notwithstanding. Any mechanic working on a van would thank you if he knew the difference.

At any rate, do not use a Dorman oil cooler unless you have a penchant for do overs and/or a glutton for punishment.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2016 | 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by rhilim
Thanks for the reply. I'm hoping I caught the lifter before it started coughing up needle bearings or screwing up the cam, but won't really know until I pull them to see what I've got. At present I've just got the "chirping" under the hood after checking/replacing all the obvious suspects. Any good way to check he LPOP to make sure I don't have any crap in it? I would assume pulling the pan to see if I have anything there would be advisable as well?

So, you'd replace the HPOP with a Ford part as opposed to an aftermarket (reman Bostec, Alliant, etc.)? Good to know.
Pulling the pan is not treat on these but doable. As for the HPOP, I think just stick with the Ford since you have the V4 style, like Rusty said they are a good pump and not failure prone like the early build style.

 
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Old Apr 19, 2016 | 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by rhilim
Thanks for the reply. I'm hoping I caught the lifter before it started coughing up needle bearings or screwing up the cam, but won't really know until I pull them to see what I've got. At present I've just got the "chirping" under the hood after checking/replacing all the obvious suspects. Any good way to check he LPOP to make sure I don't have any crap in it? I would assume pulling the pan to see if I have anything there would be advisable as well?

So, you'd replace the HPOP with a Ford part as opposed to an aftermarket (reman Bostec, Alliant, etc.)? Good to know.
You'll know more once you get a look at the cam/lifters. I know it's nice to have everything on hand to go from start to finish but I think in this case some exploratory surgery may be the best way to go. I would say if you're still making good low side oil pressure at a hot idle the pump probably hasn't swallowed any bits and pieces yet. As you probably know the pump is behind the crank balancer in the front cover. Not too hard to get to or work on. Would be a good time investment to inspect the gears if the lifter has lost any parts or really just for best practices anyway.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2016 | 09:35 PM
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If cam removal is necessary, so will crankshaft removal. At THAT time, is when you will have a good idea of the condition of your LPOP, since you will need to remove the front cover to remove the crank, along with the rear cover.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2016 | 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by navistarnut
Good idea on any 6.0 if you have access and some miles/unknown history on the HPOP, but a NO BRAINER on a van.

At any rate, do not use a Dorman oil cooler unless you have a penchant for do overs and/or a glutton for punishment.
Thanks for the input on the HPOP.

No on Dorman! I found the oil cooler from Tousley Ford for $293. Local auto parts sell the DoorMat for about the same price.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 07:51 AM
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I think you are a little disoriented on the job. The hpop in this engine,, is generally rock solid. No way in the world would I take out a factory hpop,, and put in a reman with orange seals. Those pumps are NOT failure prone unlike the advice you got from a mechanic. The 03-04 pumps,, those suk!!! But the 05 n up's,,, very good pumps. You do have pulling the engine in the schedule don't you?? Cause it is coming out. (Just reread and saw you are planning on pulling,, sorry). The lpop is the place to check for metal. Not the oil pan,, although the oil pan will show you,, but the lpop will generally show you if there's enough metal to do damage. If you don't know where the lpop is,, I would suggest more research before tearing into the job.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 12:00 PM
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I appreciate all your responses, as far as the HPOP is concerned I plan on taking the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" approach knowing that the game may change considerably once we do some exploration and see what state the lifter(s) are in. I'll do my best to post my findings once I get things torn down and take a good look-see.

Thanks again.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 10:28 PM
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The single most largest determining factor on the direction as to where this repair is going to go, is with regard to cam condition. What I'm trying to get at, is EVERYTHING on the engine is coming out, if there's issues with the cam. It's at that point where you'll need to evaluate the dollars to cents where you'll be ahead, putting a cam and lifters as LPOP (and all associated gaskets) going back together, versus just outright short blocking it.

As for your HPOP? Worst case scenario is if there are issues with it shortly after this repair, it's not at all that intrusive or difficult to come back apart to access it if need be. At least not nearly as intrusive of disassembly as you already have it now. But I'm sure you knew that already.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2016 | 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by m-chan68
The single most largest determining factor on the direction as to where this repair is going to go, is with regard to cam condition. What I'm trying to get at, is EVERYTHING on the engine is coming out, if there's issues with the cam. It's at that point where you'll need to evaluate the dollars to cents where you'll be ahead, putting a cam and lifters as LPOP (and all associated gaskets) going back together, versus just outright short blocking it.

As for your HPOP? Worst case scenario is if there are issues with it shortly after this repair, it's not at all that intrusive or difficult to come back apart to access it if need be. At least not nearly as intrusive of disassembly as you already have it now. But I'm sure you knew that already.
Understood, already considered the "damaged cam scenario" and the associated additional repairs...obviously hoping for the best here.

It just continues to baffle me, all this for a $40 part...

Thanks for the input.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2016 | 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by m-chan68
The single most largest determining factor on the direction as to where this repair is going to go, is with regard to cam condition. What I'm trying to get at, is EVERYTHING on the engine is coming out, if there's issues with the cam. It's at that point where you'll need to evaluate the dollars to cents where you'll be ahead, putting a cam and lifters as LPOP (and all associated gaskets) going back together, versus just outright short blocking it.

As for your HPOP? Worst case scenario is if there are issues with it shortly after this repair, it's not at all that intrusive or difficult to come back apart to access it if need be. At least not nearly as intrusive of disassembly as you already have it now. But I'm sure you knew that already.
Im with you Mike,,, not to mention how the cost of camshafts has skyrocketed lately!!!! And how the quality has gone in the toilet. I've been averaging 3 ordered cams to get one that's installable.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2016 | 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by run6.0run
Im with you Mike,,, not to mention how the cost of camshafts has skyrocketed lately!!!! And how the quality has gone in the toilet. I've been averaging 3 ordered cams to get one that's installable.
I've been out of the 6.0L game for quite a while now, since they no longer show up on dealership doorsteps anymore. Just curious, what is the hooping for a new cam these days?
 
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