I know a fan setup is cheaper than buying a new fan shroud. And does the job just as good if not better. And a shroud is a must-have with the only other option is a fan setup. Or making a shroud.

Another encounter is when you add a clutch to the fan and don't have the proper spacing it does no good. And the stock solid fan blades are extremely dangerous. I know 2 people who battled them and had stitches. And I had one take off like 4 seconds after we had our heads over it. Was a stock fan from a 390 and the original ford water pump shaft sheared just at the pump. This is still hanging on my carnage wall. I cried when the 4 row F350 radiator was chopped to shreds...

And lastly, a solid fan is not good if you plan on doing any water crossings. An electric fan can be toggled off. Sorry Houston!

 

Electric fans help keep your rig cool if your idling a lot in heavy traffic on a hot day. other than that I can't think of a reason to install them.

 

When I get a chance, I'll switch over to electric. No need to use any HP turning a fan blade when it isn't needed for cooling.

 

Well the ol horse has been beat really hard again. We have seen a couple good pointers on how this might be achieved, heard some nasty cases of blow outs, opinions on clutch fans being better, but no mpg gains or real costs.

And the OP hasn't been seen in days.



John

 

I realize that I won't get a huge gain in fuel mileage but anything is better than nothing especially if gas prices go back up to what they were a few years ago and as Orich said mileage is a bunch of little things that all add up.

orich , 04-18-2016 07:24 AM
The basics for get a little better mileage is a bunch of little things that all add up.
Theirs not one really big fix that will give you instant super MPG using the stock oem engine.
One way is by unrestricted the air flow into a engine and out with correct carb jetting.
Reduce engine drag can be of many things & ways.

If it produces any increase in mileage then that's a good thing Right.

It's better to have saved a little gas then too have it taken away any mileage.

The way, I see it when a gallon of reg. gas has gotten up to $5.58 per gal.
like it has happen a few times here in Shaky Sunny N. Calif.

It's either by doing one or the other, stop driving these old classics or milk out as much MPG as you can in these high prices time. Plus we know we've at least made an effort trying to get any added mileage out of these gas gobblers fe's trucks.
My 0.2
Orich

 

So these subject has being kicked around many times on this site.

Form using a Holley's to Edelbrock carbs are they any better then stock.?
If no good then why do guys use them?
Better performance but worse mileage.

Can, I get better mileage with duel exh. & headers installed.?
If no good then why are they used?


Can, I get better mileage using a fan clutch fan or an eclectic fans?
If not then why are they used by the car industry ?

Can, I get better mileage by installing a high out dizzy ignition & coil?

Can, I get better mileage by lowing the frontend of a vehicle ?
If not then what's the reason trucks & cans use air damns.

Can, I get better mileage by using a K&N air filter or more air piped into the carbs?

Can, I get better mileage by using skinny tiers?

Can, I get better mileage by having my windows close an use my AC?


Many of these Questions have been answered many times over.

Some guys are believers an some are not, but only the guys who have put out the effort and the cash to do so, plus the hard work installing many of the items listed and not listed.

I know, I missed adding some to this list but just making a statement
if none of these items listed work in one way or another then why have been used
for some many years over & over for generations ?

Or save all the money and leave it bone stock and get the same mileage ?
Then why is everyone adding goodies for better mileage?
You be the judge it's your cash~!
My .02
Orich

 

Two of the biggest reasons for electric fans is sideways engines and smaller frontal areas of the vehicles.

As government regulations force auto manufactures to get better fuel requirements with their products, the vehicle has to be more areodynamic. To do this, the front of the vehicle has to have a reduced cross-sectional area.

In some cases, this means even having to tilt the radiator back at an angle to reduce the frontal height of the vehicle's nose. You can't drive a mechanical fan off the engine if the radiator isn't straight up and down and expect to be able to effectively draw air through the radiator.

Some of it is for the reduced parasitic loss you would get from a mechanical fan (fixed or clutched). It just won't make huge amounts of difference though.

 

And don't forget weight. Today, manufacturer's look for any way possible to shave fuel robbing GRAMS.

When I used to get some bright idea, my dad would always ask me if I thought I knew more than the engineers in Dearborn?

My apologies.

 

Hi I'm JeffC an fairly new to asking questions on forums. I'm currently doing the efan conversion on my 68 F100. I've completed the 3G upgrade = 14v. My questions deals with the efan 40 -30 - 4 pole relay. I connect PIN87 to the fan + side. Connect PIN85 to Thermal Switch located on the intake's gooseneck. PIN86 "Trigger" to switched hot fuse panel connection. PIN30 via a 30 + amp to Battery pos side, and efan Ground wire to ground. If this is correct? Then!
(1) Could I tie in a led dash mounted Manual by-pass switch by connecting to the wire from (pin 85 to thermal switch) is that correct?
(2) Is it possible to connect to the wire from pin 87 which powers the efan to a LED dash mounted light with a low amperage (5 amp) fuse intact. If so what are specifics? What gauge wire. Or am I playing with fire?
Thanks in advance.
jeffcobb9@gmail.com

 

Hi I'm JeffC an fairly new to asking questions on forums. I'm currently doing the efan conversion on my 68 F100. I've completed the 3G upgrade = 14v. My questions deals with the efan 40 -30 - 4 pole relay. I connect PIN87 to the fan + side. Connect PIN85 to Thermal Switch located on the intake's gooseneck. PIN86 "Trigger" to switched hot fuse panel connection. PIN30 via a 30 + amp to Battery pos side, and efan Ground wire to ground. If this is correct? Then!
(1) Could I tie in a led dash mounted Manual by-pass switch by connecting to the wire from (pin 85 to thermal switch) is that correct?
(2) Is it possible to connect to the wire from pin 87 which powers the efan for a LED dash mounted indicator light with a low amperage (5 amp) fuse intact. If so what are specifics? What gauge wire. Or am I playing with fire?
Thanks in advance.
jeffcobb9@gmail.com

 

Post #33 of this thread has indicator lights in the wiring diagram. Might be what you are looking for.
https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...-SPAL-V3/page2