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Selling my 79 F150 4x4. Any suggestions on the ad?

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Old 04-15-2016, 06:03 PM
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Selling my 79 F150 4x4. Any suggestions on the ad?

So im selling my truck. The reason why is a very long story, but suffice to say its time to move on to bigger and better things, and dragging this thing across the country is a no go! So here is my ad that i'm going to put up on Craigslist. I was hoping, as possible buyers yourselves, you guys would have some suggestions on what I should add to this or take off. Also, any questions you might have about the truck (as possible buyers) would be great to hear.
Right now i'll be making an asking price of 4grand, now thats still a loss for me considering we got the truck at 2500 and put about 3 grand into it. however that buying price was very high and i never would have paid that for the condition it was originally in. (total rust bucket back then.) then just the overall hours I put in rebuilding, sanding and panting the whole thing. Anyway, i'm partially concerned with my asking price as well, not sure what guys such as yourselves would conservatively pay for this truck, again, why i'm posting here first.

also, the pictures here are a little old. I'll be using more up to day and better detailed pics, these are just for yall.

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Selling my 1979 4X4 F 150. Asking price of 4,000 OBO. A lot of work has been done to the truck including a complete rebuild of the body. The engine as well has had an upper rebuild, including new heads. The engine is clean and in good running order. The following is a list of parts I have replaced. The title is clean, though the body does not have a vin number on it since the original vin plate was lost, however the vin on the title is correct. The truck was manufactured in Kentucky and spent most of its life on a horse farm in Florida until being purchased by me. The engine itself is a 1974 351 M Series originally from a Torino.
1979 Ford F150 4x4 1/2 ton pickup with wood bed 4in lift kit. (Daily Driver)
All new Freeze Plugs
New Header Gaskets
New Heads
New Valve Cover Gaskets
New Starter Solenoid
New 18 gal Gas tank
New Fuel sending unit
New Temp Sender
New Oil sender
New Brake shoes all around.
New main universal joint. (I have the forward drive shaft for 4x4 but it needs a Universal and is not in the truck at the moment due to the exhaust headers being too big. You should replace them with shortys)
New Elderbrok Carb 4bbl, less than four months old. Sometimes the truck backfires through the Carb, this is due to the timing not being set to optimal compression. Someone with a more expensive timing light than I have or simply bringing it to your local mechanic will fix this issue. I've found this usually occurs on acceleration if you do not allow the engine to warm up.)
New Timing set
New Water pump
New HEI Ford electronic Distributor W/ Plugs and Wires
New Internally regulated Alternator
New Battery, less than two months old.
New Turning Signal switch
Newly painted on the inside of cab including dashboard, floor board
New Bench seat cover
New 3 point seat belts. (You need to get the lap belts as I only had bucket seat so they are not bolted down at the moment.)
New Water temp and Oil pressure gauges (ultra lite - They work, but are currently not hooked up. I just simply have not gotten back around to the wiring.)
New headlamps and tail lamps.
Newly painted under carriage and chassis, Front to back.
Very little rust on the truck overall, I have replaced the Crew Cab, front quarter panels and put New driver and passenger doors on. The internals of the doors were transplanted from an older model ford but are all in working condition and greased (be it a little squeaky as old trucks tend to be)
New master Cylinder with new brake line leads. (I did not replace the entire brake lines)
New transmission cooler lines.
New Transmission cooler
New key cylinder
New Heater Core (There is no thermostat in the truck atm)
New Side mirrors
New Rear view mirror (Not currently glued to the windshield)
New Side steps
New headlight switch
New dimmer switch
New Transmission vacuum modulator. *There may be a seal leak which causes fluid to enter the modulator and creates shifting problems, however since I changed the modulator I have not had an issue and was likely due to bad o-rings in the part. I replaced the part two months ago and have not had an issue since.
New Wiper switch and new wiper blades.
New Cargo lamp

--- Concerns to the buyer
First of all, the truck needs a paint job. It has already had bondo work done to it, but more wouldn't hurt and it certainly needs a good sanding.
I would suggest replacing the wiring harness in this truck. The current harness is from a 1973 F350 and required me to do a lot of re-wiring, changing from a distributor with points and electronic regulator over to the HEI and Internal Alt system. Doing so did allow me for a smaller, less complicated fuse box which is nice, however the harness itself is a hodgepodge of colors at some points requiring you to follow the leads if you intend on replacing or adjusting something. As the previous owner had installed an MSD box and coil I've since removed both for the new starting system. Though everything works in order, your best bet would be to pick up a harness new or used, and simply replace the existing. This is also the reason why the Start Neutral switch is not currently hooked up, nor are the rear back-up lights. As there is currently no plug in for them. Alternatively you could wire in the lights from the trans to the rear end and wire in the Neutral safety switch to the harness.
PS - there is no radio in the truck. I had intended on replacing it with an original stereo but haven't come up with the money for it. Also you will need new tires all around. I put used tires on the back but the tread is worn :P
















 
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Old 04-15-2016, 06:09 PM
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Heres what it looked like when I first got it.


 
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Old 04-15-2016, 09:04 PM
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Do you have receipts for "upper rebuild, including new heads" ? And all the other NEW items? I feel it is worth mentioning.

Vi# on the paper title goes with the frame #'s, NOT the dvrs side door riveted on warranty tag or the safety certification sticker on the B pillar. Neither of those are the vi plate. There is NO per say vin plate like new vehicles have.

I like the flat bed, and you obviously have worked very hard on that truck, but it would not sell for 4K in my neck of the woods. And the flat bed might hurt the chance of a sell.
 
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Old 04-15-2016, 10:16 PM
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Clever circumvention of forum rules against sale posts.
 
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Old 04-15-2016, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Cbad285
Anyway, i'm partially concerned with my asking price as well, not sure what guys such as yourselves would conservatively pay for this truck, again, why i'm posting here first.
At 1st I said the same thing, even had it typed, but then I read this and gave in.

Really need to be put on the FTE classifieds, so it gets seen by a larger market.
 
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