Interesting issue with acceleration
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 81
Likes: 2
Interesting issue with acceleration
Hello everyone,
I wanted to make a post because I could not find a similar story to mine on the forum.
I have owned several 7.3's and I have never encountered this issue.
I recently picked up a 2001 7.3 with 200k miles on it.
When I bought it I knew the glow plugs were going, I also knew it accelerated slow. I went ahead and replaced the plugs, valve gaskets, and added a heavy duty glow plug relay, along with an oil change, and fuel filter.
For some reason, the truck just dose not accelerate very fast at all, significantly slower than any 7.3l I have owned in the past. It appears that I shift at about 3000 rpms and it takes a while to get up to speed. I would like to get it mechanically sound before I restore the body.
I was thinking it was the ebpv? but what else could it be?
Any advice?
Thanks
I wanted to make a post because I could not find a similar story to mine on the forum.
I have owned several 7.3's and I have never encountered this issue.
I recently picked up a 2001 7.3 with 200k miles on it.
When I bought it I knew the glow plugs were going, I also knew it accelerated slow. I went ahead and replaced the plugs, valve gaskets, and added a heavy duty glow plug relay, along with an oil change, and fuel filter.
For some reason, the truck just dose not accelerate very fast at all, significantly slower than any 7.3l I have owned in the past. It appears that I shift at about 3000 rpms and it takes a while to get up to speed. I would like to get it mechanically sound before I restore the body.
I was thinking it was the ebpv? but what else could it be?
Any advice?
Thanks
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
The "Pump" noise is either the Fuel Pump (which will stop after 10-15 seconds) and/or the Vacuum Pump which will eventually stop if your system is sealed.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
Found this somewhere when troubleshooting Boost Leaks......
Verify that MAP hose is not damaged, plugged or pinched
Verify that intercooler hoses or intake are not leaking.
Verify that the green Wastegate hose is not plugged.
Monitor MGP (manifold gauge pressure) and RPM with the SCANTOOL
Road Test - select appropriate gear to obtain desired engine speed and
full load on engine (best accomplished climbing hill or truck fully loaded). Spec: MGP 15 PSIG Min
**MAKE A BOOST TEST CAP**
Using a 3 1/2" PVC CAP drill a hole into the cap for a 1/4" Male Air Line
Fitting which will work with YOUR air compressor, Tap and install.
Pick up a 3 3/4" Worm Drive Clamp. This will secure the test cap to the
intake side of the Turbocharger.
Pick up an inexpensive in-line air regulator with a gauge of 0 - 50 psig.
Remove Intake Hose AT Turbocharger and install Boot Test Cap.
Slowly increase the air to 15-20 psig. Do not exceed 20 psig as damage to
a seal may occur.
Using a spray bottle with soapy water, spray all fittings of the CAC and Turbocharger System.
Tighten and/or replace parts as necessary.
DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE CAC CLAMPS! They are designed to be tightened just past where the spring begins to compress. Overtightening will damage clamps requiring replacement and causing Boost Leaks.
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Posting Guru
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 1,072
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From: Dustbowl, NV
I would think you'd hear a stuck EBPV, like a muffler that'd been hit... kind of a hissing?
-Possible boost leak?
Maybe easier to eliminate a mechanical slowing down of things, like:
-Sticky brake(s)? You might take an infared temp gun and check each brake disc after a run around the block.
-Jack up the rear wheels and see if you can spin the tires with your hands. That would eliminate a trans/diff /brake binding-dragging issue. Then do the same for the front wheels.
-Possible boost leak?
Maybe easier to eliminate a mechanical slowing down of things, like:
-Sticky brake(s)? You might take an infared temp gun and check each brake disc after a run around the block.
-Jack up the rear wheels and see if you can spin the tires with your hands. That would eliminate a trans/diff /brake binding-dragging issue. Then do the same for the front wheels.
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Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 81
Likes: 2
Thanks for the tips, hopefully I can report a concrete solution tomorrow.
I have a lot of items to check. I wish i could fit my truck in my garage...
I also borrowed my friends scan tool since mine was stolen. I will conduct a road test tomorrow.
I have a lot of items to check. I wish i could fit my truck in my garage...
I also borrowed my friends scan tool since mine was stolen. I will conduct a road test tomorrow.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 81
Likes: 2
Thank you for all of the tips so far, sorry but I have not tried these solutions yet. It was the first nice day in a year here in michigan and I was busy with my family. I hope I can work on the truck tomorrow.... Its killing me not being able to drive it.
Thanks again,
Thanks again,
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 81
Likes: 2
Ok, I jacked the truck up in neutral. The front tires and rear drivers side tire would spin freely. The rear passenger side would not move at all. I believe I may have a stuck caliper. Would anyone be able to help me confirm this before I tear it all apart? Thanks again.