I have an 02 X, and it's been giving us trouble for almost 2 years now. We've babied it along, but it is acting so crazy now.
Here's the current weirdness...
Truck idles, ABS light comes on, within 15 seconds engine dies. Battery is DEAD, must have a jump to restart. Otherwise, if we catch the ABS light and Rev the engine to 2500 rpm and hold it for a few seconds until the ABS light goes out, then it is fine and does not die.

We have replaced the alternator with a stock Ford brand (whatever their brand is from the dealer) because we were told the ones from the auto part stores didn't have a strong enough or steady enough current. (This thing had already eaten 3 auto parts store brand alternators in 2 years.)

We are so tired of the electrical problems this thing is giving us, and since we have now outgrown it, thanks to baby #7, it's not even worth it for us to take it to a mechanic for them to fix. We really just want to get it in shape to sell it. Don't want to pass an electrical problem to another family.

 

What engine?
Have the battery(s) been replaced?

 

It's the v10.
Yes, the battery was replaced when we replaced the alternator the first time. And each subsequent replacement we had it tested and it was good when the alternator tested bad (which is how we managed to swap it twice under warranty before forking out the money for the Ford one)

 

Sounds like a charging/battery/cable issue.
I would look at the battery cables, alternator wiring, etc. Corrosion on terminals and rust at ground points are bad, and can be hidden under cable or wire insulation.
This is something that takes time, but anyone can do without taking it to a mechanic. Good luck.

 

Is there much rust under the truck?

 

No, there really isn't any rust on it or under the hood. There was some corrosion on one of the battery posts that my husband cleaned off last week. It seemed to be only causing issues with allowing the battery box to make a good connection to jump it. But we got it all cleaned up. I can check that cable under the insulation for further issues

 

And definitely check the ground cables and wires that go to the body and engine- any of those that aren't making good contact will prevent enough current to flow.

 

OK thank you, Walt.

 

Do what Walt send and make sure all the wiring is sound. How long have you had the Ford alternator on it? We (Ford dealers) see a lot of Ford alternators that are bad. Very frustrating.

 

Afullexcursion- I just saw this post in another thread that sounds like your situation unfortunately... <table width="100%" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="6"><tbody><tr><td class="alt2"></td><td nowrap="nowrap"> mjoyce
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</td></tr></tbody></table> So on 4-9 both of my batterys were dead. Oreilys warrantied them both so just for giggles I had them check the alternator. Bad voltage regulator......so that got me thinking. This has been happening for years on a very random occurrence. Last year my FICM went out and I asked the local ford dealer to fix that and troubleshoot my dead battery issue. They found nothing. Ill just bet the alternator has been bad for years and they didn't catch it on two separate occasions. Today I ordered a 190 amp DC Power alternator from ficmrepair.com along with the complete wiring kit. It should be here Friday. I can't wait to get in the truck and put the key in the ignition and NOT wonder......will it start today or am I getting out the chargers?.....

Just wondering why my 1973 Firebird has a battery light to indicate a bad alternator but my 2003 Scurge has no light. SMH. AND why the heck can't two Ford dealerships catch a bad voltage regulator. I mean I was thinking about selling it if I couldn't get a real diagnosis.

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I'd been thinking you might have gotten a bad alternator, but the cables are ALWAYS suspect, so it's best to start there...

 

The same reason most gauges nowadays don't actually show real readings. The gauges will be moving all of the time and most drivers will either ignore them anyway or don't understand what they are seeing. Those charging lights had a tendency to start flickering under low RPM/high current load conditions.


Add me to the list that it is probably a cable issue. Another thing to check is the plug in the back of the alternator where the voltage regulator controls the alternator. I had a case where the plug looked like it was all of the way in but was actually out just a hair and would intermittently lose contact.

 

I will also check the voltage regulator. My husband just got home from work, so I'm letting it cool down then I will get started. Thank you for all the input. If I have any update, I'll try to remember to come in and post it. Follow ups are not my strong suit, lol

 

With all those family members, I'd hate to see you sell the Ex for some (relatively) easy fix; besides, what else could you buy to haul everyone- short of a Greyhound Bus?

 

We installed it in like August or September. And put new plugs and ... oh dang, I forget what they are called.. the things that have replaced plug wires that are attached to the spark plug... replaced those and the throttle body and fuel filter all at the same time. We were looking for clues to major power loss specifically on hills. Found out afterward it was the catalytic converter. But, she needed those new parts anyway.

 

Lol he has been trying to convince me to buy a bus for a while now. We had a Blue Bird school bus years ago we converted to a toy hauler, and he keeps saying we need to get one again. I've got him pacified with 2 15 passenger E350s for now lol!
Unfortunately we either have to modify the Ex by replacing the 2 front captains with a bench (which has been my white unicorn for the last 3 months I've been searching), or sell it anyway. We are 1 seat short of fitting all of us (family of 9 now). It's a crying shame, cause I love the darn thing. Hubby is trying to convince me to pull the engine and put it in one of the vans because they are both only V8s. I said-not until we figure out this electrical problem at least!!