OK, I read the multiple threads about replacing the stabilizer bar bushing and how the steel sleeve needs to come out. I left mine in and just presses the urethane replacement right in the same hole. No problems.

Why fight with removing the old steel if it is not damaged?

 

Because that's the recommended procedure, the main reason being I-Beam holes have relatively smooth holes---when the steel sleeves are left in place they can and will cut into the urethane.

There's a reason instruction sheets are provided just as there are good reasons those who follow them and pay attention to others who've done this before.

But then again its your truck so do as you please----bad results sooooo don't affect others.

 

My urethane bushing instructions made no mention of removing the steel, neither did my Haynes manual. They simply state remove by pressing and reinstall by pressing.

My sleeves were vary smooth, don't see how they could "cut" the urethane.

PS. Nice attitude instead of helpful advice. Where's that ignore button?

 

Remove the sleeves.

Remove the stabilizer bar and bring the van to a shop and pay them $60 to pop out the sleeves. A good mechanic can pop them out in a few minutes with the right tools. Us home mechanics improvise. JWA has done the job. Take his advice.

 

Not to be a smart @$$, but most peeps on the forum will tell you to bring the Haynes manual to the bathroom and use it when you run out of TP.

I bought the 4 volume shop manual for $75 on eBay. Saved me thousands.

 

Understood, RTFM is a universal forum answer, but Haynes is what I have and as I noted before, my bushing set instructions made no mention of removing the sleeves either.

Not going to bother re-doing everything because "JWA" did it. I asked a few mechanical guys around here and they said if the sleeves were in good shape and not loose, no big deal. The vehicle is 22 years old and has zero rust underneath it, so maybe its a regional thing. I imagine in Chicago, the sleeves probably deteriorate before the rubber wears out.

I will keep a eye on the sleeves and if something looks wrong, I will fix it. Fortunately Rock Auto sent 2 sets instead of 1 and its not worth the return postage to send them back.

 

I tend to agree with you on it being an old vehicle. The new bushing may outlive the van. The bushings are cheap, so if they wear out, replace them again.

 

Take out the old sleeves.

 

You sir are correct but modesty prevents me from saying so on my own! I try to help most, some can't be, don't want help so what to do, what to do?

But...but...but Haynes manual doesn't suggest that so it can't be necessary right?

Having done 4 sets of these so far, honestly it not being abundantly clear that first time out why I still followed the Energy Suspension installation instructions, going so far to call them asking about why it was important to remove those sleeves. The advice I offered above comes from them-----no better source IMHO.

So when/if we're ready to talk about axle pivot bushings and whether to remove similar sleeves---contact me.

 

Can you give me a reason?

Will the new bushings fall out if I don't?

Will the handling be compromised?

Will the new ones wear out much faster?

Is there a dis-similar material issue?

I'm a detail-oriented engineer. "Just because" is not an answer.

 

If you don't the sun will stop shining.


How about because the manufacturer say so.
You are just playing games......

 

For a claimed "detailed oriented engineer" you're certainly not behaving as one would, none that I've ever known.

So if you need bombarded with words here ya go........

Everyone of use who've already done this followed the instructions included with our parts. Those parts, typically from either ProThane or Energy Suspension specifically state the original steel sleeves that are part of the original sway bar bushings are removed. While they don't feel its necessary to explain WHY they designed their parts to work WITHOUT those sleeves we not-so-detailed-engineer's follow their instructions.

Most "detail oriented engineers" would have done a lot more research into this procedure, whether it be online in forums like this one or more thorough reading of the manufacturers website's instructions----ProThane and Energy Suspension both having fairly extensive information available for reading or downloading.

Pre-reading forums like FTE et al would have shown removing the original bushing sleeves was pretty much standard operating procedure. In fact I've NEVER seen any replacement urethane E-Series front sway bar bushing installation instructions saying leave those sleeves in place.

Whoops---I forgot OP is ignoring me---right?

 

as a 30 yr truck/coach mechanic with my automotive licence, engineers seem to be part of the problem , not the solution.


not sayin , I'm just sayin..............................


I don't think the OP got instructions with his parts, that's why he did not know he had to remove the steel sleeves.


the replacement urethane bushing are "engineered" to fit in the bare I beam. the steel sleeve is bonded to the OEM bushing..
>

 

Waaaaaaaay more true than most of them ever admit!


Quite possible yet this wasn't mentioned in the opening post, the one from which all this has stemmed from. We can't help if we don't know the full story.


Also correct, much like these OEM axle pivot bushings:







(These ^^ are NOT sway bar bushings, simply images showing similar parts.)

 

Thread cleaned and opened.