So, I want to stay safe and reliable, but I would like slightly more power. What I have done so far is put into the BTM muffler. I think it is kind of flow through design. So from what I have read in the forum would be to go with an intake (6637, AIS, or SB) and a tuner like DP. I'm not towing a lot, but just got the truck, so that could change later. I will need gauges eventually, but might go with one of the ob2 ones that I can show on a android pad, and then eventually get boost and get gauge on the pilar. I think that will be it. So is this a safe plan for the engine and is there anything else people would recommend or advice. Thanks

 

The a-pillar is a necessity (boost, EGT, trans temp or fuel pressure), if you are doing anything to it. I love using the torque app for watching HPOP and stuff, but it is nice to have a true boost gauge next to your head.

I have the TS 6 position chip and I love it. It has 6 settings (unless you have them flash it custom, then there are like 20 different things you can have them set)

If you do put a tuner or chip you must watch EGT'S closely when the engine is under alot of load. Anything over 1400° is extreme danger, 1600° I think your turbo turbine will melt.

You could also do a turbo wheel, those are always nice.

 

I would stick with 1,250 degrees as your absolute upper limit on your EGT's. Gauges are a must (EGT and Fuel pressure are not available through a tablet). Plus I would make sure your truck is 100% before putting any kind of chip in there. If there are any gremlins brewing then you will find out quick and in a potentially expensive way once you start pushing the truck harder.

 

{cracking knuckles}

As mentioned, there are no on-board sensors for EGTs or fuel pressure. I hold the opinion EGTs are crucial when powering up, and I also feel they grow ever-more crucial as these trucks age and air leaks can develop (powered up or not). Because of this, I have two EGT gauges, one for each manifold. I'm glad I did that, because an imbalance developed, and it's the passenger side that's having problems. Most EGT sensors are driver-side only... I would have missed been confused with just one gauge.

The fuel pressure gauge is more of an "It's getting long in the tooth" thing. With a new stock engine, a fuel pressure gauge would have been very boring for a long time. Well... a long time has passed, and now it's not weird to find very interesting readings on a fuel pressure gauge. Many issues have been resolved by in-tank mods alone, but an occasional fuel pump fails here and there.

After that, you can load up the gauge pod with boost and transmission temp if you want, but I opted OBDII for everything else. My tablet is part of the truck, and my procedure during the Wait To Start light is buckle my belt and start the OBDII app (Torque Pro for me). The nice thing about the OBDII app is it's set to log, and the alarms are programmed to let me know when something is up - preventing the need to watch the tablet at all.

Oh... and I didn't A-pillar.






As for powering up, you can click the "custom tunes" link in my signature for more on that.

 

I have an Edge Insight to monitor everything. Not fancy, but does what I need. Had to drill and tap the exhaust manifold to install EGT probe, and mounted the boost sensor in the vacant hole left when removing the Air Intake Heater. The Edge can monitor boost using the MAP sensor, but when you hit 24lbs of boost, the truck defuels. So, unless you have programing to by pass that, which some do, you have to install a boost fooler. With that, all the boost your MAP will see is 22 to 23lbs even though you may be generating more than that. The Edge can also read codes, and clear them. It will not do any kind of test though. It will read any thing that has a sensor on it though.

 

I have low miles right now (94,000), and since I bought a very well maintained truck, the turbo is very clean, so does the turbine upgrade happen when you rebuild it, or can you do it anytime to add more boost. Also how long to the turbos last before rebuilding normally.
I'm basically looking for about 285 to 300hp and 575 to 625tq, or maybe slightly less. The key is reliability as I don't need flashy power, just want a little more as I think the truck will drive a little better. Thanks for people's input in advance.

 

A chip will get you there, but air in/out mods will help it along. In my way of thinking, any call for more fuel (chip) should be preceded by more air. This is all assuming you have your gauges and the truck is verified 100%

 

I've replaced a lot of O-rings, broken components, and plugged a lot of leaks. Everything has been with OEM replacements (or better stuff from Clay at Riffraff). As for modifications:

6637 (S&B sitting in the garage waiting to be installed)
MBRP 4" turbo-back exhaust
HPX (you'll get mixed reviews on its merits - mine is the stainless steel one)
Billet turbo compressor wheel
Deleted the Exhaust Backpressure Valve (EBPV)
In-tank modifications (aka hutch and harpoon)
PHP Phoenix 6-position chip

With just that it's enough to surprise people when I get on the freeway (especially in my performance setting). I'm not young and it's enough to keep me happy. Friends are definitely surprised at what my "school bus" can do. I can only imagine how well it would do with aftermarket injectors since there's only 60hp or so extra in the stockers.

If you are looking for "safe" and "basic" I would delete the chip option and turbo compressor wheel. Pulling the turbo is not the most difficult thing to do but it is very time consuming, especially if it's your first time and you're doing it alone. Any modification can potentially decrease the life of the engine and its components. Adding a chip will definitely accelerate the life of your components so it's a tradeoff you have to decide on: more performance or longer life. I've had my chip for 4 years and I don't attribute any of my problems directly to having it. I'm sure some of my leaks have been aggravated by the programming (definitely more aggressive than stock) but I don't race between stoplights or try to be the quickest to get on the freeway. The performance increase was worth it to me but it's a decision you'll have to make for yourself.

I have an intercooler and trans cooler (26 row) from a 6.0L waiting to go in when I have the time also.

I've tried to keep my power modifications minimal to extend the life of the engine (and tires). With 290K on the odometer and still on the original injectors it is only a matter of time before it's time to replace them. At that point is when I'll have to make the decision on which way to go.