Picked up my block and other parts from my engine man last night. My wallet is significantly lighter. Dad couldn't figure out where the weeping sound was coming from until he got around to the tailgate of his truck where I was writing out the check. I had my engine man do all the machine work on it. He dipped and magnafluxed the block and head, sleeved all six cylinders, ground the valves and seats, replaced the valve guides, cleaned up the cam and crank, replaced the cam bearings, and cleaned up the mating surfaces of the block and head. I probably forgot a few things but I'm already boring some of you. The only concern he had was some minor pitting on the rear seal area of the crank but said it should seal up fine. He still needs to check the rods but thinks they'll be OK, too. Looks like I'll have about $1500 in the rebuild before it's all said and done. Lots of parts to order before we start reassembly. It will be a good winter project.

I should be done sandblasting and painting my frame in a couple weeks. Then I need to get cracking on my suspension and steering parts. I had a nice chunk of change to start this project from when I sold my daily driver truck and bought an old police car at auction. I have used up all those funds so I will probably find myself with more time than money for a while. We've all been there. It's funny how the time and money never seem to be in balance. One always has a lot more of one than the other. Not a big deal since I have a lot of parts to blast and paint. I should be busy until next summer with the engine assembly and getting the chassis rolling. I'll have some money saved up by then so I can take the auto body class again and finish my cab.

 

Wow! you've got your work cut out for you, but you're making great progress. Be sure to keep us updated.
Freezeplug

 

That sounds great Kevin. How much more do you figure in the engine before it's done?
Ive been enjoying following your progress.

 

Hey Kevin, your description of the engine overhaul gave me goosebumps. Must feel nice to have all that shiny metal ready to assemble. The best part is, you know it's all straight and done right.

I'm with Carl, how much you think you'll have in just the engine when all is said and done? My Y-block should be going in "the dip" in the next day or so. The shop said there would probably be $1000 in the machining by the time they are done, and I know I need more than $500 worth of parts to reassemble. I'm guessing I'll be at $2200 or more. Is a six just naturally less expensive to rebuild than an eight?

 

Hey George, what's all the machining you're doing on your y-block? I too am sending my 292 block in for machining and cleaning (he says he puts it in an oven instead of hot tanking, and it comes out like new), he will bore .080 over, new cam bearings, turn 312 crank to match 292, zero deck block, check piston to valve clearance, install and degree new cam, and balance the engine for $1145. In addition I'm sending my ECZ-G heads to John Mummert for new s.s. valves, guides, unleaded conversion, .025 shave, and full port and polish. This is going to kill me.......$1350 plus a bunch of shipping both ways!
But I'm having a lot of fun!
regards.........freezeplug

 

Isn't progress great? Weeping is only a stage, just wait until you see the finished product! It sounds like it is coming along nicely!!

 

<b>This is going to kill me.......$1350 plus a bunch of shipping both ways</b>

That sounds like a serious engine, what sort of truck is it going into?

 

Well, now I'm seriously confused about what this is going to cost me. That's OK, it's only one of dozens of things I'm seriously confused about.

I'm expecting a call from the shop any day now to tell me the condition of the block. From there, we'll decide what needs to be done. I'll be putting all the details in Earl's World as I find them out.

Kevin, you keep us up to date on your engine rebuild, OK?

 

Carl, the engine is going into my 1960 F100 4wd. (you can see it in my gallery). This whole engine deal really snow-balled on me, and I think I'm about as out of control now as anyone can get....LOL!
regards..........freezeplug

 

So far I have about $980 in the rebuild with $1380 the current projected total for the engine only. Our labor is free. This doesn't count the accessories like the starter, generator, carburetor, etc. I know these figures because I have to track everything to keep the accountant (wife) happy. I'm sure there is probably more machine work that could be done such as balancing but this isn't a race engine. I'll be able to reuse my crank, cam and valves. It would have been significantly cheaper had I not had to sleeve it. I debated that one long and hard but the only other option would have been finding another engine which would have been a crapshoot. I know my block is good and now the cylinder bore is back to standard so it should last my lifetime. All Dad had to do to rebuild his flathead was buy new rings and give it a valve job. Where's the fun in that?

I've listed everything below for those interested. For others, .

Header gasket set Fel-Pro
$21.79
eBay

Misc other gaskets - oil pan, etc.
$20.57
eBay

Rocker arm assembly
$48.68
eBay

Cylinder sleeves
$300.00
Brian Davis

Install, bore, hone, clean and prep sleeves. Rebuild cylinder head. Hot tank and magnaflux block and head. Replace valve guides. Valve job. Resurface head. Install cam bearings. Clean and polish crank and cam.
$500.00
Brian Davis

valve guides
$24.00
Brian Davis

cam bearing set
$30.00
Brian Davis

pistons - std - 5 Sterling NOS
$27.99
Hublers

piston - std - 1 NOS FoMoCo
$4.00
Mike Bullis - free for shipping


Still need to purchase the following:

piston rings - std
$30.00

main bearing set - .020
$130.00

rod bearing set - .020
$60.00

lifters
$90.00

cam gear
$15.00

crank gear
$10.00

timing chain
$20.00

oil pump rebuild kit
$30.00

main seal set
$17.00

I'm probably forgetting some things but I think that covers the big items.

 

Hi Kevin, You made out good,(compared to Calif. prices), on your machining and head work. Out here, for a V8, they want $650 just for new stock valves, guides, unleaded conversion , machining, hot tank, and magnaflux. (pretty much a great reconditioned stock head job), no more, no less. I'm thinking it might pay to have my work shipped back to Illinois...........LOL!
regards.......freezeplug

 

Yeah, my engine guy specializes in performance engines and does vintage work to fill gaps. He had my parts for several months. His shop is just down the road from my parent's house so rent is cheap. He charged $250 to install and prep the sleeves, $175 for the head and block work, $30 to install the cam bearings and $30 to clean and polish the crank. I didn't have hardened seats put in. Is that more of an issue with the hotter running flatties or no? I can reuse my valves after a regrind.

I'll let you know how happy I am when we start putting it back together. I'm pretty optimistic right now. He's been a good guy to work with.

 

In regards to hardened seats, I thought I read somwhere that it wasn't really necessary unless you were turning high rpm's.....not sure though. Mabey someone has some hard info on this subject.

 

Hardened valve seats are (necessary) if you intend to use unleaded fuel. I bracketed necessary because it may be quite a while before you have any problem, but you are spending a good bit of money now, why stop without doing that?

Leaded fuels allow the use of softer valve seats, because the lead cushions the valve closing. Without lead the seat will wear too fast unless it is hardened.

They used hardened valve seats before WWII, when all gas was unleaded.

 

Actually the flatty combustion temps are a lot cooler than most OHV's. Ford eventually did away with hardened seats in 51 as the nickel content of the block went up.

Flatty or OHV dont require hardened seats as long as the compression is kept low. I use hardened seats in all my flatty builds as there Im pushing the limit but not in Y Blocks which I prefer to run on regular gas. Even builders of semi hot Y Blocks agree that seat work is not necessary as long as it is not driven/worked hard.
As far as your 223 and similar 6 bangers, there are probably a hundred thousand running just fine on regular gas with no problems. The exception to the rule is a bunch of various Mopars.