Engine replacement
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 447
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From: Florida
Engine replacement
I have a 96 f-350 CC dually with around 250k miles, it has been parked for 4 years or so due to lost compression on 1 cylinder. I recently purchased another 7.3 turbo to oil pan with 70k miles, is there anything I should replace/upgrade while the engine is out?
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,111
Likes: 1,546
From: western SD
I'd at least do oil cooler O-rings. Look at the valve cover gasket electrical plugs for burned/ melted connectors. What year engine did you get to replace the original? 99-03 engines came with electrical fuel pumps, ours had the mechanical one. I have read that the 99-03 have no lobe on the cam to run the mechanical pump.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,797
Likes: 10
Replace anything and everything you see that is questionable with the motor out! It is so much easier to do so. I'd redo the pan gasket and dipstick adapter, turbo orings, oil cooler, and up pipe gaskets at a minimum, and if you can swing a set of bellowed pipes.
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Florida
It is out of a 96 also.
I plan on doing glow plugs, valve cover and pan gasket.
Can the head studs be done without removing the heads? As in pull 1 bolt, replace with stud.
I want to do anything I can to make it as reliable as possible while it is out, without breaking the bank.
Bellow pipes?
I plan on doing glow plugs, valve cover and pan gasket.
Can the head studs be done without removing the heads? As in pull 1 bolt, replace with stud.
I want to do anything I can to make it as reliable as possible while it is out, without breaking the bank.
Bellow pipes?
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 11,132
Likes: 3
From: Southern West Virginia
It is out of a 96 also.
I plan on doing glow plugs, valve cover and pan gasket.
Can the head studs be done without removing the heads? As in pull 1 bolt, replace with stud.
I want to do anything I can to make it as reliable as possible while it is out, without breaking the bank.
Bellow pipes?
I plan on doing glow plugs, valve cover and pan gasket.
Can the head studs be done without removing the heads? As in pull 1 bolt, replace with stud.
I want to do anything I can to make it as reliable as possible while it is out, without breaking the bank.
Bellow pipes?
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Florida
To be honest, all I plan to ever do is a tuner, maybe an intake setup if it would help and turbo back exhaust. I drive roughly 4-5k miles per year. Mostly unloaded, but will haul a 50hp tractor 2-3 times a year and a 95 f150 mud truck every few weekends.
I usually drive like a granny and care nothing for the whole "rolling coal" that so many are into.
Don't really need a dually, but it was free (from father) so why not. I sold my 07 250 awhile back and have missed having a diesel every since.
After the whole 6.0 roller coaster I just want it to be reliable enough that if I want to take a cross country trip that I have nothing to worry about.
I usually drive like a granny and care nothing for the whole "rolling coal" that so many are into.
Don't really need a dually, but it was free (from father) so why not. I sold my 07 250 awhile back and have missed having a diesel every since.
After the whole 6.0 roller coaster I just want it to be reliable enough that if I want to take a cross country trip that I have nothing to worry about.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 20,419
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From: AZ
Rolling coal is not very popular anymore. States and the feds are starting to crack down on it. Just heard on the radio in Vegas that if anybody sees smoke out of a vehicle to call their license plate in and then they gave the number out.
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Senior User
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From: Florida
Well over $1,500 in parts later it is at the shop getting the engine installed.
oil cooler
water pump
valve cover gaskets and wires
up pipe gaskets
exhaust manifold gaskets
glow plugs
injector o-rings
turbo gaskets/0-rings
rear main seal
timing cover
4" turbo back exhaust
all new hoses and belt
I feel like there was more, but cannot think of it. When I bought this engine it was supposed to be an "A" engine, arrived covered in oil from leaks, oil cooler almost rusted through, exhaust manifold's rusted to hell (I am replacing), up pipe bolts nearly rusted in half, and any other part that can rust looks like crap.
The place said "it's a 20 year old engine", I don't know about the rest of you, but when I buy a grade A engine I expect it to be drop in ready, not to have to spend another $1,000+. At this point I am far enough into it that I could have bought a remaned long block unfortunately.
oil cooler
water pump
valve cover gaskets and wires
up pipe gaskets
exhaust manifold gaskets
glow plugs
injector o-rings
turbo gaskets/0-rings
rear main seal
timing cover
4" turbo back exhaust
all new hoses and belt
I feel like there was more, but cannot think of it. When I bought this engine it was supposed to be an "A" engine, arrived covered in oil from leaks, oil cooler almost rusted through, exhaust manifold's rusted to hell (I am replacing), up pipe bolts nearly rusted in half, and any other part that can rust looks like crap.
The place said "it's a 20 year old engine", I don't know about the rest of you, but when I buy a grade A engine I expect it to be drop in ready, not to have to spend another $1,000+. At this point I am far enough into it that I could have bought a remaned long block unfortunately.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,797
Likes: 10
Well over $1,500 in parts later it is at the shop getting the engine installed.
oil cooler
water pump
valve cover gaskets and wires
up pipe gaskets
exhaust manifold gaskets
glow plugs
injector o-rings
turbo gaskets/0-rings
rear main seal
timing cover
4" turbo back exhaust
all new hoses and belt
I feel like there was more, but cannot think of it. When I bought this engine it was supposed to be an "A" engine, arrived covered in oil from leaks, oil cooler almost rusted through, exhaust manifold's rusted to hell (I am replacing), up pipe bolts nearly rusted in half, and any other part that can rust looks like crap.
The place said "it's a 20 year old engine", I don't know about the rest of you, but when I buy a grade A engine I expect it to be drop in ready, not to have to spend another $1,000+. At this point I am far enough into it that I could have bought a remaned long block unfortunately.
oil cooler
water pump
valve cover gaskets and wires
up pipe gaskets
exhaust manifold gaskets
glow plugs
injector o-rings
turbo gaskets/0-rings
rear main seal
timing cover
4" turbo back exhaust
all new hoses and belt
I feel like there was more, but cannot think of it. When I bought this engine it was supposed to be an "A" engine, arrived covered in oil from leaks, oil cooler almost rusted through, exhaust manifold's rusted to hell (I am replacing), up pipe bolts nearly rusted in half, and any other part that can rust looks like crap.
The place said "it's a 20 year old engine", I don't know about the rest of you, but when I buy a grade A engine I expect it to be drop in ready, not to have to spend another $1,000+. At this point I am far enough into it that I could have bought a remaned long block unfortunately.
I know it can be a expensive pain in the *** to rebuild one of these even when the motor is internally solid, but its well worth spending the money up front rather than doing a lot of what you have listed down the road with the motor in the truck. Saves you a ton of time and heart ache/soreness!
A remanned LB is 4500-5300 for bone stock built out of core parts here locally... almost everything you listed is not part of a LB build, its all accessories/bolt ons so i think you are still coming out ahead big time depending on purchase price of the motor. Did it come fully dressed? Turbo/accessories, injectors etc?? If so scoring on a second set of components is a def plus!
Best of luck on the build! I would absolutely do the pan gasket and dip stick adapter before you put that back in the truck!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 20,419
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From: AZ
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,797
Likes: 10
