B&W hitch?
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 242
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From: Tyler, TX
B&W hitch?
I found this b&w hitch and I was wondering if it was worth the money. Its listed as a class 5 hitch with a 16000lb rating for only $190. I feel like that is too cheap for that heavy of a hitch. Anyone have any input? I have a drop bumper that is maybe 8-10" tall so I need a hitch that can clear it.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,107
Likes: 1,534
From: western SD
In my opinion, B&W is the only way to go with a gooseneck hitch, but you must be talking about a receiver hitch. I have no experience with one of those. If B&w is making it, I'm sure it is a good hitch.
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 242
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From: Tyler, TX
1993 Ford F-250 and F-350 Trailer Hitch - B and W
I meant to include this in the original post but heres the link. Its a conventional hitch receiver.
I meant to include this in the original post but heres the link. Its a conventional hitch receiver.
Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 133
Likes: 29
I installed that Torklift hitch that comes out in the middle of the bumper. Plan was to use it for holding a tray bike rack (Thule T2) while towing or with a camper in the bed, but as mentioned above, the hitch opening is quite high off the ground. It's not usable for a bike rack without a drop adapter, because the bikes sit very high up in the field of vision.
I ordered a drop adapter from Amazon (4"), but the problem with adapters is they push the rack farther out front, which puts bikes right back in your vision again. Didn't help any.
I ordered a drop adapter from Amazon (4"), but the problem with adapters is they push the rack farther out front, which puts bikes right back in your vision again. Didn't help any.
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 664
Likes: 129
From: Columbia, MD
Basically, you are paying for heavy plate or tube steel, a couple of simple bends, and a few welds. Nothing very complicated. Many of the pricier hitches have bent tubes and other bells and whistles that add to production costs without adding much if any strength. Simply tossing more steel at something isn't terribly expensive. If the steel is thick, welds good, and holes aligned, you're good.
A few observations:
A few observations:
- You might want to place a doubler plate on top of your frame flanges to help spread the point loads from the side-plate-to-frame bolts. The extra drop is going to put more torque stresses on the frame flanges than a lower-drop hitch. I'm kind of paranoid, but this is a location and function that you want to prepare, install, and forget. Cracking off a flange or pulling a bolt through while towing would not be fun.
- I have seen the 3-piece design for some applications. It allows the same hitch to fit different frame widths; just swap the side plates to the other side.
- For a 3-piece design, I like that the cross tube on this one goes through the side plates. You're not relying solely on the bolts.
- The 3-piece design should make installation easier, especially for a heavy hitch. Place each side plate separately, but keep the bolts loose so the plates can flop around. Lift the cross tube assembly into place, and loosely bolt. Then tighten everything down. Should be much easier than trying to lift and maneuver the whole thing while trying to get a couple of bolts in the frame holes.
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