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I will replacing my clutch soon so I am trying to do some research first, and I have come across a puzzle. Which pilot bearing to use?
1. Factory style needle bearing. Seems to be a failure problem which people want to make better. I haven't had a known issue with mine yet.....
2. Kevlar bushing from south bend. At first glance it looked like a good idea. But I see a lot of failure with these as well
3. Dorman 960-039 brass bushing. I found this info buried a in thread. It seems to be the correct size and it is actually a Ford bushing for late 70s trucks. Seems like a great idea. Anyone know of a reason why it wouldn't be the best option?
I'm no help, really, but I am curious what others think about this. I did a needle bearing on mine when I refreshed and I haven't had an issue with it (not yet, anyway). I think the issue with the stock style is that some people install it without cleaning out the bore of the hole and they end up damaging it when they are installing it. It doesn't take much to mash the housing of the needle bearing and crimp the rollers in there tight. You really shouldn't have to use much force to push it into the bore of the hole in the flywheel, so if you do, you have to be really careful. Little needle bearings like that are pretty delicate.
For that reason alone, I'd be curious to see how well a brass bushing would work.
Hopefully someone will have some experience with it. If don't get a good answer I will probably at least order it. The kits come with the needle bearing and I could compare the two before installation. I just hope someone knows the down side to the bronze bushing over the needle bearing
It sounds like you are talking about the pilot bearing? I've seen the throwout bearings for the zf-6 made by South Bend and they seem to be good quality. I don't know how the zf-5 ones are, but I assume they are also nice.
Im at the tail end of my clutch replacement. I went with the LUK Kit... incl. flywheel, disk and PP. It came with throwout brg and pilot brg. Parts looked to be good quality and everything went together very nice.
Like Nate said, Clean trany shaft sleave good and don't be tempted to use lube between TO brg and shaft sleave.
I also installed new fork and slave master and cly set....
Oh im installing this in my newly acquired 93 f350 CC 4x4 with a PSD in it.. The swap was don years ago and is getting a bit tired.. Motor is ok,, leaks a bit.. I installed a newer trany. zf from a 97 f450.. will be test running tomorrow.. Will post on how the clutch feels..
I also used the Luk clutch kit. I personally think for the money and what it offers, it's the best deal. Cost me just under $300 with shipping from rock auto for my 97. You have to put a 96 or earlier down though to find it. A 1997 clutch kit for a 7.3 doesn't show up on rock who's site for some reason.
I have been running the whole single mass kit for about 7-8 months with no issues. I have stage 1 injectors and DP tunes and it hasn't had any issues with the power increase.
Or option#3
Take measurements to a bearing shop and get a sealed ball bearing and assemble. That's what i always did on my clutch mustangs. No wear on input shaft and no rollers to knock out.
Or option#3
Take measurements to a bearing shop and get a sealed ball bearing and assemble. That's what i always did on my clutch mustangs. No wear on input shaft and no rollers to knock out.
Nice suggestion. I have a bearing supply place close by. I will swing by there with the measurements
I wanted to update this with the outcome for others who may search in the future.
I ended up using the supplied needle bearing that came with the Luk kit. When I removed the flywheel the bearing looked fine. It spun with no noise and appeared to be in good condition. Since I have efuel I don’t worry about fuel leaks, which seems to be the killer of these bearings. I tried to find a sealed bearing but everything I found was too thin. One company suggested using 2 bearings stacked. I wasn’t a fan of that idea. Maybe there is one out there but the places I called were not able to find one.
The new bearing seems to be a quality product, and the last one outlasted the clutch. I feel pretty confident about my decision. It went in well and sounds smooth.
I will add the Luk clutch seems to be fantastic. It has good positive engagement with much better pedal than I had before. I still have some synchronizer issues but it is much better and primarily when down shifting. I may try some Amsoil to see if it helps any. But heck, it has almost 300k on so I don’t have any complaints
I am running the Luk kit as well and I've been pretty happy with mine. It hasn't lived an easy life but it's been in there for close to three years and when I replace it, I will likely use the same one again.
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