X2

Definitely in stock mode for troubleshooting - tunes will demand more.

 

Ok so here is where i am at. Talked to shop n they want to change ipr first n c if thats it, because of ipr reading being around 70 -80% and being below 2000 psi. Then they r saying if thats not it then they will put old ipr back on n change hpop. N i guess for low voltage on ficm some mornings (usually colder mornings than normal) they want to load test batteries first. Jus hard to believe it could b multiple things going bad all at once. Thoughts?

 

Load testing the batteries and testing the alternator is a good thing. Especially before replacing the FICM. You don't want to replace/upgrade the FICM just to have it damaged by the charging/battery system.

Now having said that, it's easy to test the FICM with a multimeter or data logging.

 

Were you running with a tuner during the IPR/ICP testing or in stock?

 

At first it was tuned . Didnt know that. But did it stock n still doing same. Anytime i get on it now it hesitates alot. But when jus driving normal its ok. Unless its going threw its idling iratic deal. Dropping it off wednesday night to get fixed thursday so guess we will c.

 

IPR Duty Cycle % seems ok at that rmp but the ICP is low unless this is a tune, and without knowing what the tune is calling for it's tough to say........ edit: What was your speed?

Here is what I see at about 75 mph, 2500 rpm's on the highway flat terrain.

 

I will take a ride and double check. Should i b @ steady speed at 2500. Or accelerating hard

 

If u want to compare to my graph, then I was steady at 75-77 mph.

Can u record the readings on your edge?

 

I did a re-read of things and as noted this FICM is on it way to being TOAST.
If you have a problem starting like you do and you loose more you may have
this problem and the board will not be repairable.

Ed said that he can't fix that one. Toast.
BTW that one did not even show that it was on it's way out.
I blame pregnant capacitors that blew. Voltage stress will do that.

So the lesson : Fix the charging system and then the FICM or you
have a tow bill.



Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder

 

I see in your signature you have the Edge Insight CTS and the SCT4 scanner:

"03 Excursion Eddie Bauer 6.0PSD 4x4:S&B intake, diamond eye 4" turbo back straight pipe, 6" black tip, sinister diesel ceramic up pipe w/ slip joints, egr delete, arp head studs, blue spring, 64.7 mm billet compressor wheel and honed out housing on 2003 turbo, sct x4 tuner, gearhead custom tunes, edge cts insight, ssbc big bit brake kit (drilled and slotted rotors and pads),schaeffer's synthetic racing oil 7000 series 15w40, HID headlights and fogs, 08 side mirror conversion"


Both will data log.

Here is the link to the CTS Insight - data logging on page 28.

https://edgeproducts.com/installatio...es/21103_A.pdf


I would heed Sean's advice & warning - lets check out that FICM, the Battery & alternator before it costs more $$$$$.

 

either on the Edge or SCT,

Pull up the 4 voltages:

FICM main volts
FICM logic bolts
FICM Vehicle volts
Battery Volts

start data logging (about 30 seconds should do) with the key on engine off. I can post up a graph and see what the more experienced folks think about the readings.......

but the lowest you want to see the FICM main power go is 45V, the others should reflect the same as battery voltage.

 

unless you did an oil cooler recent the IPR is Likley OK


Check IPR% at KOEO
14% is Good




you can pull the IPR and push on it with screwdriver it should move about 1/8" would be Good




If the valve tests ok then leave it and do a HPOP

 

Do any of the units that will data log start fast or so they
take time and miss the low voltage that is often missed
during the start time? Even the SGII has to be forced
started to catch it. SGII = (ScanGuage 2). Sadly it does not log.



Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder

 

Good point!

The SCT only takes as long as it takes the user to hit gauges & wait for the 5 second download. As long as the PID's are preset. Never used the Insight. The Dashboss can take some time to connect and AutoEnginuity even longer (minutes).

Probably better of checking it manually with a multimeter to be sure.

How long is a "too long" unit start time?

 

Ed would be the best to answer that. But I am thinking that it's less
that the pre-start injector buzz. After all to have the buzz test you
have to have high voltage. So I bet less than 10 sec.



Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder