Electrical Problem on startup
Electrical Problem on startup
I am sure someone has seen this, but I am scratching my head. Everything seems to work that should in the ACC key position. Advance the key to the locked/remove key position, again everything works. At the Ignition On position, again, everything seems normal. When you start the truck, everything goes off temporarily that should.
Now, when the truck starts, the courtesy lights, power windows and dome light work for a second, then switch back off.
There is a click in the cabin fuse panel. I have tried swapping the relays around. I have also changed the ignition switch because it was a big swing at it for $25.00.
Beyond this, I would be guessing. Thanks in advance for any insight.
Now, when the truck starts, the courtesy lights, power windows and dome light work for a second, then switch back off.
There is a click in the cabin fuse panel. I have tried swapping the relays around. I have also changed the ignition switch because it was a big swing at it for $25.00.
Beyond this, I would be guessing. Thanks in advance for any insight.
Did you change the key lock or the actual ignition switch?
There is an actuating Rod from the key lock to the switch that could have some problem. Bent rod, broken mounting etc.
Sounds like the power goes missing from the ignition switch from mechanical movement.
Good luck.
There is an actuating Rod from the key lock to the switch that could have some problem. Bent rod, broken mounting etc.
Sounds like the power goes missing from the ignition switch from mechanical movement.
Good luck.
Thanks for the reply Bluegrass.
I changed the actual switch, not the key cylinder. I am kind of kicking myself for not manually working the switch through it's full cycle before reattaching it to the column.
The cylinder itself is pretty worn. Have to wiggle the key, turns without the key sometimes, etc. How much if anything electrical is controlled in that area? I do believe the previous owner spilled a soda or two onto the steering column, as I have used considerable amounts of Simple Green removing it. :-)
I changed the actual switch, not the key cylinder. I am kind of kicking myself for not manually working the switch through it's full cycle before reattaching it to the column.
The cylinder itself is pretty worn. Have to wiggle the key, turns without the key sometimes, etc. How much if anything electrical is controlled in that area? I do believe the previous owner spilled a soda or two onto the steering column, as I have used considerable amounts of Simple Green removing it. :-)
There is a switch that signals the key is in or out of the lock.
Unfortunately, the OP failed to tell us specifically what he's working on, so I can't look at any diagrams.
I tend to agree with the idea the sloppy cylinder is not holding the switch in position. Pretty sure all that is operated electrically by the cylinder is the key tone. Going to swap it out this afternoon.
It's a 1998 F-150. Just kind of figured the ignition system was pretty standard. Sorry for lack of detail.
Thanks for all the great insight.
It's a 1998 F-150. Just kind of figured the ignition system was pretty standard. Sorry for lack of detail.
Thanks for all the great insight.
Okay, cylinder is changed out, but problem persists. What is most vexing is that if you begin rolling down the window while you are starting the truck, the window stops, as it should, then starts again when the truck starts and you release the key. Again, just as it should. After about a second, it stops, and the electrical system reverts back to the "cranking" state. Dome/Courtesy lights off, no power to windows.....
Hope I am making sense.
Hope I am making sense.
Trending Topics
You needed to replace the switch on principle for it's obvious wear and condition.
.
The start circuit gets it's power from a fuse through the operated ignition switch to power the start relay on the firewall.
Some reason this circuit is being re-closed.
Look at the ignition switch operation visually to see if it is resting too far toward crank position after lock release. Be sure the start rod is not hanging up.
Inspect for any wiring fault near the switch to cause the start circuit to get power.
Look at the start terminal on the firewall relay for any possibility it can touch power from the battery terminal.
Be sure there is no remote start equipment attached from the past owner.
Good luck.
.
The start circuit gets it's power from a fuse through the operated ignition switch to power the start relay on the firewall.
Some reason this circuit is being re-closed.
Look at the ignition switch operation visually to see if it is resting too far toward crank position after lock release. Be sure the start rod is not hanging up.
Inspect for any wiring fault near the switch to cause the start circuit to get power.
Look at the start terminal on the firewall relay for any possibility it can touch power from the battery terminal.
Be sure there is no remote start equipment attached from the past owner.
Good luck.
Yep, agreed. The switch and cylinder have both been changed now to no avail. I am going to completely disassemble/inspect the entire column from the cylinder to the switch. When you say start rod, I am going to assume you are referring to the link between the cylinder mechanism and the switch. I do recall the round hole the lever on the switch fits into looked ok, but could certainly be worn on the cylinder end, or just gummed up.
I sure appreciate the patience. Will certainly keep you posted.
I sure appreciate the patience. Will certainly keep you posted.
Thanks Bluegrass. I am going to step back from it and let the hair grow back on the sides of my head.
I have a friend that is younger, shorter, and lighter than myself. He will remove the front seat, and lay under the dash until he finds the culprit. Treasure of a friend indeed.
More to come later.
I have a friend that is younger, shorter, and lighter than myself. He will remove the front seat, and lay under the dash until he finds the culprit. Treasure of a friend indeed.
More to come later.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Clifford II
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
Sep 16, 2004 03:55 PM
hotarri
1978 - 1996 Big Bronco
6
May 25, 2004 03:29 PM








