hey FTE,
Working on 69 F100- 360:

I am still deciding if I should replace rear main seal, oily/gritty film behind the flywheel, BUT the oil pan gasket is bummed up in several spots and seem to be one source of oil.

Other thread said must remove oil pump to drop the pan.

Is it possible to drop it slightly and thread the new oil pan gasket under the bottom of the pump, then clean the gasket and get it to seal up when tight.

Thanks,
Richard

 

I've done this on my Galaxies because you can't get the motor up high enough to get pan out PERIOD. I removed old gasket, scraped/cleaned surfaces and when I went to install new gasket I cut it in the front(right under crank) so I could feed it around and not have to dip it into pan to get it under the pump. Worked pretty well, but very difficult to do laying upside with NO room to work.

Larry

 

My .02.

Since the pan will come out with the engine in, I would go ahead and pull it out it will be much easier to clean the surfaces and get a good seal.

 

Its a 69 f100 - 360 2wd-
I understand that the pan cannot be removed without also jacking up the engine.
The narow part of the pan is above the crossmember and evidently cannot slide forward past either the oil pump or the oil pump pickup. ( gotten two different opinions about what part of oil pump must be removed) that part must be removed inside the pan to allow the pan to slide forward.

Richard

 

I have a 67 F250, and I think my oil culprit is the oil pan seal as well. Is there any reason why you can't drop the pan as far as it will go without taking it off, and then feed the seal in the pan around the pump?

or did someone already say this a better way?

Thanks

 

I see no reason why you could not do it the way you are both suggesting, but:

Having done it the way you are suggesting on a Ranger that the pan will not come out, I think that jacking the engine, removing the pump and getting the pan all the way out would be way easier than trying to clean the mating surfaces with the pan in.

I had to jack the engine further than is suggested with the 2/4 trick to install the headers and it should not take more than 30 minutes to do. Pulling the pump should be no big deal.

 

I also thought I might be able to thread the gasket under the pump or pump-pick-up. Evidently just not much play with the limited clearance. I hope that it will dip at the front even if the pan can't slide forward.

 

Thanks,
I agree with the cleaning mating surface ordeal. If I jack it up to remove the pan I may try for the rear main seal as well. Just seemed like a lot of stuff needed to be disconnected to jack up the engine. Also with the transmisson out for clutch replacement the engine will be really squirrelly whne the motor mounts are disconnected.


Richard

 

That is a very good point I had not thought about. (I actually put my transmission back in before jacking the engine.) I'm not sure I'd try it with the trans out unless I could hang it from a hoist.

 

Your engine will be squirrelly even with the motor mounts firmly bolted up once it is disconnected from the transmission. The engine and transmission support each other; your transmission will not sit solely on its crossmember nor will the engine sit happily alone on its mounts. Once you disconnect them the engine will need to be supported at the back; the tranny usually can just sit on the jack. Your oil pan gasket will have to be done before or after your clutch work.

Now for the original question. Although you might be able to snake the gasket in without removing the pan, you have to remember that the oil pump pick-up normally sits right off the bottom of the pan; you'lll have to be able to get the gasket by the pick-up with only about an inch of room. I think you'll be time ahead just to drop the pan and be done with it. It'll also give you a chance to inspect your bottom end, clean and repaint the pan, etc....

 

I just did this on my '71 f250. All you have to do is drop the oil pan and let it rest on the cross member while you clean the mating surfaces. (a rough job when the gasket looked to be as old as the truck) Then slide the gasket on from under the pan. slip the front end over the lip of the pan, then work your way back until you get the rear of the gasket around the oil pan lip. That way you don't need to kill your hands trying to feed it under the oil pump.

 

great idea, thanks

by wiggling the flexible gasket around the edges of the pan, ending up at the shallow end, should be able to get it around the entire pan.

That will change the tough job to cleaning the mating surfaces and getting all the crud out of the pan.

Richard

 

I am going to double post this to the Oil Pan and Oil pressure threads as it seems to relate to both.

I am a hard head so I went ahead and replaced my oil pump against advice of folks here with experience. Here is what I did and the preliminary results.

I used:
Melling HV oil pump.
ARP oil pump drive shaft.
Fel Pro Performance Pan gasket (has a rubbery coating)

I strongly considered trying to put a Ford racing windage tray in (I do not think it will go, I did not even try.)
I tried a Milodon Pick up for their “stock pan” Apparently; their stock pan is deeper than a stock pan.

I raised the engine by removing the nuts on the studs holding the motor mounts to the frame supports and used my engine hoist to lift the engine approximately 1 inch. I had no problems leaving everything else connected. I used an open hole on the left head and the alternator mount at the intake manifold on the right to attach a chain for lifting.

(Jacking and shimming with 2x4 as suggested should also work.)

To those suggesting that it is easier to just lower the pan and slip the gasket around, I just do not see how you could effectively clean the surfaces, it is a huge pain in the rear even with the pan out. I think you would be time ahead to go ahead and pull it but that is me.

I have about 3 hours working time in it, taking out time to pressure wash the pan, paint it, waiting for it to dry, clean up tools and pressure wash the garage floor. I do have air, but it was not that big of help (you can only use it to remove the pan bolts and the motor mounts)

I have only moved the truck about 10 feet out of the garage as I want to let some RTV I used at the timing cover joint cure, but it now has 35 psi at idle and 65 psi at 2000 cold oil pressure. (10w40)

I did shim the oil pump pressure relief spring with an 8mm diameter, 1mm thick washer which is nicely held in place by the stock pick up. (I’d advise replacing it, but I just honestly didn’t feel like trying to track one down, I cleaned the old one and reused it.)

 

This is on another subject, but how hard was it to replace that oil rod and get it back up into the distributor? Mine pulled out this weekend and fell back into the oil pan >>> I hope. I am planning on pulling the pan this weekend and go ahead with replacing the oil pump and re-install the oil rod.

 

It was about an 18 in the aggravation scale 1-10.

I ended up using saftey wire around the drive shaft to put it in enough of a bind to hold it in the distributor while I put the pump in. (no room to put it in the pump first.)

The stock shaft is a good bit lighter than the ARP, you might be able to hold it in with thick grease.

If you are putting in a high volume pump, I wouldn't use the stock shaft.