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They work the same. 05 and up were given a newer "updated" sensor that had course threads and a taper on the end with a new tube. Some 05's like mine were cross over and had the old style sensor that fit the 7.3s. You can run both, the old style will have a mounting bracket on the thermostat housing that is used to fit the old style sensor. You can remove the bracket and mount the new sensor to the tube essentially floating with no support on the old style tube if needed, which i am also doing. sensor readings should be 16 ish cold idle, 17ish hot idle and move up to 40+ psi at hard throttle
thanks, thats what i did at first was take the bracket off and screw in the tapered treaded end and it worked but no right, but i bought it at advance auto so not oem, i went back and they got me the right one that screws into the bracket with no taper sensor, its not right,it starts at 85% and slowly goes to 15% when warm but now its very sluggish ,its as diff as night and day compared to what it used to be,it kept throwing codes saying ebp sensor so id clear and they come right back, after awhile i disconnected batts awhile and now no codes but very sluggish still,im going to get a oem and see.
EBP reads in PSI not %, when started the proper numbers are what i mentioned. 16 at cold idle, 17 at hot idle and climbs with throttle.
What numbers are you seeing? Very possible that you got two crap sensors out of the box. The motorcraft replacement isn't cheap (80$) so i can see why you tried chinese aftermarket. Have you cleaned the tube out aswell as swapping the sensor? Easy enough to jam a piece of weed wacker line down there a few times to free up the hole.
oh yes you are right,lol,i was looking at the vgt readings,mine dont read ebp at all, i cleaned out the tube and cranked without it to blow out anything in it, i hope thats the prob is aftermarket sensor.
What are you using to check values? Scangauge II will read EBP. I can get the code to enter it if needed. Leave the sensor unplugged and see if your sluggishness is still there and let me know what you find.
By unplugged i mean the electrical connector unplugged with sensor still mounted.
Yeah it will be bad mileage because you'll run higher boost in normal driving situations, forcing the engine to call for more fuel i assume. When the EBP is unplugged, it gives a default pressure of 6.7 PSI. If your sluggish with the sensor it could could be the bad sensors or possibility of a bad pigtail aswell. Would help if you had EBP, EBPV numbers imo :P Otherwise get a OEM sensor and a new pigtail and call it good.
thanks,thats what ill do, no more aftermarket sensors for me, oem comes with good warranty also, may cost a little more but worth it at the end of the day.
When you get the new sensor installed you should check EBP, MAP & Baro sensors together. With the key on engine off (KOEO) On a cold engine (sitting overnight) all should read the same as the Baro sensor - well, within .2-.3 psi of each other.
Here is an example;
Befor starting the engine KOEO - cold engine ) all 3 sensors are reading the same, then after startup (1/2 way through the graph) you can see EBP bump up a bit above the others.
If you have a multimeter you can check the voltage at the sensor. IIRC correctly you should see a 5V reference voltage and a 1V sensor voltage at sea level.
You might want to look into Torque Pro, its free and with a $20 OBDII wifi adapter you can read just about everything the PCM sees. A scanner/code reader is a big plus to have with a 6.0L. They are a huge time saver and a great troubleshooting tool.
lol,we all dont have fancy equip like that, as ive said a few times now i can not ck ebp at all with my setup,i can ck vgt witch is just as good.
It looks good & fancy because John (ExPaCamper on FTE) did a great job creating it. It just runs off of Excel, but you will need Torque Pro, Dashboss, Autoenginuity or something that will data log. He's almost done with some of the programming & quirks.....but it's real easy to use. If you end up getting a scanner/data log device you can e-mail me the data log and get you some graphs......
They work the same. 05 and up were given a newer "updated" sensor that had course threads and a taper on the end with a new tube. Some 05's like mine were cross over and had the old style sensor that fit the 7.3s. You can run both, the old style will have a mounting bracket on the thermostat housing that is used to fit the old style sensor. You can remove the bracket and mount the new sensor to the tube essentially floating with no support on the old style tube if needed, which i am also doing. sensor readings should be 16 ish cold idle, 17ish hot idle and move up to 40+ psi at hard throttle
so my truck is a 2005 f250 and seems to have to old style. Would I need to buy the 2004 ebp sensor?
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