Brake issues
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2015
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Brake issues
Alright gents. Before I replaced the drums, shoes and spring kit my front brakes worked harder and I knew that because there was a thick coat of brake dust on my rims but nothing in the rear. So I did all that and bled the brakes. Now it does the same thing. One side had a lot of gunk under the drum and the other didn't if that matters. And ive always had to pump the brake pedal at least once in order for the truck to stop decently. Any ideas. Also the PO disconnected the abs on one wheel but not the other. ABS light is on. Do I reconnect it again or remove the other? Any ideas as to why my brakes suck?
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Front brakes always perform the lion's share. Always. Somewhere around 70% or better. That's not to say the rear axle ain't important. Everything needs to be setup correctly and properly lubed and adjusted.
Run the self adjusters up tight against the drum first so it will not move, and then back off to a light drag. Depress the brake pedal a few times to center the shoes. Check again. Check again after a short ride.
The shoes need to be manually adjusted up close to the drum or the self-adjust will never work, and the pedal will be low and spongy.
Did you check for wheel cylinder seeps or leaks? The gunk you mention might be the problem there. Remember everything with brakes is always replaced or done as axle pairs. 2 cylinders, even though only one is bad. 2 drums, identical diameter, etc.
Run the self adjusters up tight against the drum first so it will not move, and then back off to a light drag. Depress the brake pedal a few times to center the shoes. Check again. Check again after a short ride.
The shoes need to be manually adjusted up close to the drum or the self-adjust will never work, and the pedal will be low and spongy.
Did you check for wheel cylinder seeps or leaks? The gunk you mention might be the problem there. Remember everything with brakes is always replaced or done as axle pairs. 2 cylinders, even though only one is bad. 2 drums, identical diameter, etc.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
If the wheel cylinders are leaking they need to be replaced. Replace hoses too. With brakes it's tough to know when to quit, everything that's bad is connected to something else that's just as bad or worse.
The gunk you talked about though, may actually be an axle seal, not a wheel cylinder. Need to check. Leaks and gunk in the rear brakes are never anything good, particularly. Make sure the rear shoes have some drag on the drum. If not, the brakes will definitely be mushy and low pedal even with no air in the lines. Doesn't take much.
The gunk you talked about though, may actually be an axle seal, not a wheel cylinder. Need to check. Leaks and gunk in the rear brakes are never anything good, particularly. Make sure the rear shoes have some drag on the drum. If not, the brakes will definitely be mushy and low pedal even with no air in the lines. Doesn't take much.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 548
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From: SoCal 909
They're "supposed" to self adjust while in reverse, but they never work that good. I replaced the wheel cylinders, shoes and hardware and always had a low pedal and poor stopping power. I scrapped the whole setup and went to rear disc. New front rotors, ceramic pads, brake hoses, rear disc, ceramic pads and a full system flush. Thing stops on a dime now.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Well let's not condemn drum brakes altogether, they are still used today, in all the big trucks too.
I'd suggest picking up the Ford Truck Shop Manual, they aren't that expensive in reprint form. Lots of solid websites on brakes, drum and otherwise. Plenty of good maintenance info at our fingertips on the intertubes, I don't know why anybody would work on brakes (or anything else) without getting up to speed first. Makes things go a lot smoother.
The manual will have the inspection, maintenance, and repair procedures outlined in step by step form.
I'd suggest picking up the Ford Truck Shop Manual, they aren't that expensive in reprint form. Lots of solid websites on brakes, drum and otherwise. Plenty of good maintenance info at our fingertips on the intertubes, I don't know why anybody would work on brakes (or anything else) without getting up to speed first. Makes things go a lot smoother.
The manual will have the inspection, maintenance, and repair procedures outlined in step by step form.
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 548
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From: SoCal 909
I'm not totally condemning them, But after the switch to disc and new hardware upfront the truck stops like a new truck. A lot of big trucks still use drum today and drum brakes work really well. But I've done everything I could and still just had okay but not great brakes. And driving a crew cab long bed 1 ton on 35" tires you need good stopping power. Kits to convert to disc for these trucks are really reasonable these days. Ruff stuff's bolt on kit was only $350.00
Plus they look cooler...
Plus they look cooler...
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Well so long as you look cool, that's what's important. ha ha.
Never really had too much of a problem with any of the brakes in any vehicle I've owned, in terms of stopping power. Some are definitely better than others though. Bedding them in properly is crucial. There are several different materials available in terms of wear resistance. "Racing" pads are probably a really poor choice for just driving around town for example. Really all I'm getting at is a lot of people ignore their brakes altogether till the rotors fall off, but quite a few others know just enough to be dangerous.
What I determined long ago though, was it's far, far better to avoid, at all costs, situations where I NEED to stop on a dime.
Never really had too much of a problem with any of the brakes in any vehicle I've owned, in terms of stopping power. Some are definitely better than others though. Bedding them in properly is crucial. There are several different materials available in terms of wear resistance. "Racing" pads are probably a really poor choice for just driving around town for example. Really all I'm getting at is a lot of people ignore their brakes altogether till the rotors fall off, but quite a few others know just enough to be dangerous.
What I determined long ago though, was it's far, far better to avoid, at all costs, situations where I NEED to stop on a dime.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 548
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From: SoCal 909
Yes sir appearance is everything lol,
But living in Southern California and driving a big, old truck on these freeways with traffic, stopping on a dime is a must unless you want to always be replacing bumpers haha. People cut you off all the time around here, plus towing anything is always sketchy when your pedal travel is almost to the floor. Even with trailer brakes, if you have a good amount of weight in the bed and you're not towing your base brake system needs to be working good.
But living in Southern California and driving a big, old truck on these freeways with traffic, stopping on a dime is a must unless you want to always be replacing bumpers haha. People cut you off all the time around here, plus towing anything is always sketchy when your pedal travel is almost to the floor. Even with trailer brakes, if you have a good amount of weight in the bed and you're not towing your base brake system needs to be working good.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 548
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From: SoCal 909
I'm in the Inland Empire which is about 45 mins outside of Los Angeles, but we still have our fair share of traffic. But occasionally I'll go to the beach and have to go that way. Bumper to bumper traffic for miles. I'm glad when I get home to my outer surburbia lol.