Here is my replacement column this was all I was going to replace. Not the whole thing. I wish I could though! So is it ok just to remove the bolt up by the shift linkage? Or no? Thanks for all the help on this!!!!!!

 

as long as the lower part is ok, that is fine.
but you are still going to need 2 people to get that in. someone is going to have to align the shaft into the column, otherwise you will pull all your hair out trying to do it yourself.

 

ok great!! Thanks tjc for all the help!!!

 

if i remember correctly the shaft is not keyed to only go on one way. so make sure the wheels are straight and the steering wheel is straight before pulling it. then put the new column in with the steering wheel straight.
this will ensure the steering wheel will not be 180 degrees out when you go for a test run.
been there, done that a few times before i got smart and started checking steering wheel orientation before taking it apart.

 

Ok man!! Will do and your right it isn't keyed there its just sort of rectangular shape, with a hole for the bolt to go through! Thanks again!!!!!
Oh i cant believe there is nothing in my haynes manual, on removing though!!!!

 

Oh and 1 other thing should i replace the ignition switch on the column b4 installing it in, the truck? If so how difficult is that? After all it is a used column! Thanks again!!!!!

 

ignition switch, or key cylinder?
ignition switch is easiest done out of the truck.
it is the white/aluminum box looking thing above the bracket on the column. simply unbolt it and put a new one on. but they usually either work or not. if they don't work it is 99% of the time because they split between the aluminum and plastic pieces. you can tell if it is split just by looking at it.

the key cylinder can be done either way, but is a bit easier to do mounted than loose.

and as for the haynes book not having this stuff, i found out a long long time ago the haynes books are not even good for lining the bottom of a bird cage with.

 

figures, man I wished I had known that! Which do u go with chilton manuals? Or do you not like those either? And also doesnt the ignition switch on the column have to be in a certain spot when they are installed? But no i was talking about the plug in switch on the lower part, of the column! Not the key cylinder. My used column has the cylinder with to sets of keys already... Thanks again tjc for your help!!!!!

 

This, is what the one looks like on the replacement column! Thanks!

 

if the white plastic part is tight to the aluminum part like it looks, go with the one on the column. if it is bad you will know rite away, it will be loose.
to replace it you unbolt it and pop it off the column, the rod will be sticking up, but it comes rote out of the switch. then just set the new switch on the rod and put the bolts in loose. turn key to accessory position and pull the switch tight to the rod, then tighten the bolts. once tight, run the key through all the positions.
i change switches in the truck, and just make sure they are properly adjusted before putting the column up tight to the dash.

as for repair manuals, i only use ford factory service manuals.
at the body shop i used to use Mitchell manuals way back when, but since i left the shop i just use the factory manuals that i have. most stuff i just go by memory, since i have been pulling wrenches for close to 50 years. i rebuilt my first engine, a 16 HP 4 cylinder farmall in a cub tractor on the farm when i was 10 years old.
at 14 i did a complete engine and trans rebuild on a 64 ford comet.

these days if i find something i am not sure on with the new cars i just look it up on the computer and within 5 minutes i have the removal instructions printed and sitting ont he desk in the shop for reference.

 

Ok man!! Thanks a bunch i didn't know u were a mechanic, at one time but that's cool though!!! I wished i had a real service manual, I can tell you that! But anyway thanks for the help! I plan on trying to replace it on Sunday! I should be to get it done! I think my neighbor is going to help me out with it!!

 

for a first timer, plan on 3-4 hours. in reality it should only take you around 1 1/2-2, but there are always hidden secrets you will not find until they want to be found.
like the one screw behind the insulation on the firewall that you missed, or the shift linkage clip that pops out and rolls away that you will spend 2 hours looking for.
remember to disconnect the shift indicator BEFORE dropping the column, they cost upwards of $50 8 years ago. and they break in a heartbeat if you drop the column with it still hooked up.

 

I new about the shift indicator i have accidentally broke it b4! I pinched it that removable cover over the actuator rod! Broke the white plastic cover over the cable. So i had to find one at one of my u-pull it yards by me! In fact its not the right one mine is P R N D 2 1 the D has a line under it. But im really the only one that drives it, mostly! I don't loan it out, unless i go with it! Lol but i figured about 3-4 hours! Im not sure what shift linkage clip you are speaking of exactly. But im sure I can figure it out, I hope! But i really appreciate all you have told me! Thanks tjc!!!!

 

Got one more quick question? Does the shift linkage, connected to the steering column, just basically pull out of the hole its in, or is there a trick to it? Thanks again!!!!!

 

just pops out of the bushing. but it is a tight fit and a royal pain in the butt to get out.
i usually use a small pry bar and wedge it between the linkage and the arm, then pry it apart.