302 build planning help
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More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 676
Likes: 8
From: Ontario
302 build planning help
Hey guys, I just picked up an old 302 and I was hoping that some one may be able to give me a few pointers.
What I'm planning is boring it to 030" over so I can be sure the cylinder walls are good, a new cam, obviously the new piston set. Lighter intake as this thing weighs a ton, and Im looking at putting efi on it.
Thing is though that I don't know what parts are good and if there are any that I shouldn't be spending my money on. I would like to get about 300-350 hp from the engine. It will be powering my 54 f100 when it's all said and done.
Now if I get a more aggressive cam then do I need to change out my valves?
Any input would be appreciated,
Thanks
What I'm planning is boring it to 030" over so I can be sure the cylinder walls are good, a new cam, obviously the new piston set. Lighter intake as this thing weighs a ton, and Im looking at putting efi on it.
Thing is though that I don't know what parts are good and if there are any that I shouldn't be spending my money on. I would like to get about 300-350 hp from the engine. It will be powering my 54 f100 when it's all said and done.
Now if I get a more aggressive cam then do I need to change out my valves?
Any input would be appreciated,
Thanks
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
There are loads of engine build threads on this forum so spend a little time reading and searching thorough the back pages. If this is your first build go grab a copy of the books that are often suggested... "Tom Moore.. Building the Small Block Ford" over on Amazon or any major book retailer.
Your goals are totally achievable even with factory parts plus a few select aftermarket pieces, and a factory EFI system from a Mustang could be utilized here at a relatively low cost compared to an aftermarket system and you wouldn't be giving up upgrade potential thanks to the fact that system is well supported with low cost DIY tuning systems.
Your goals are totally achievable even with factory parts plus a few select aftermarket pieces, and a factory EFI system from a Mustang could be utilized here at a relatively low cost compared to an aftermarket system and you wouldn't be giving up upgrade potential thanks to the fact that system is well supported with low cost DIY tuning systems.
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 676
Likes: 8
From: Ontario
Thanks Paul, it is my first engine build and have already picked up a few engine build books with Tom Moore's included. I will be doing a large amount of reading here with other people's builds. Any advise that you all have to offer would be greatly appreciated as I figure there are quite a few people on here with plenty of experience on these engines.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 884
Likes: 5
From: Shreveport, LA
300 HP is definitely do able with modern components. Your HP goal and usage, along with budget of course, usually dictates the direction of the build (weekend, cruiser, etc). Definitely agree with Conan (again!) that using the components that are readily available for 5.0 Mustangs will help with the EFTI conversion.
Some tips: If you think the bores will clean up at .030 then buy your pistons and let the shop torque plate hone the cylinder size to the piston.
Don't waste your time with factory heads as most aftermarket heads will perform well out of the box. Working in tandem with your choice valvetrain of course.
If you don't want to have to run a flat tappet cam (if you have an non roller block), you could look into a hydraulic roller used with Morel link bar lifters. I have found this is the most solid hydraulic roller foundation. Of course it depends on your budget.
Some tips: If you think the bores will clean up at .030 then buy your pistons and let the shop torque plate hone the cylinder size to the piston.
Don't waste your time with factory heads as most aftermarket heads will perform well out of the box. Working in tandem with your choice valvetrain of course.
If you don't want to have to run a flat tappet cam (if you have an non roller block), you could look into a hydraulic roller used with Morel link bar lifters. I have found this is the most solid hydraulic roller foundation. Of course it depends on your budget.
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More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 676
Likes: 8
From: Ontario
Thanks for the heads up Justin, it is a roller block but I need to go through it still and make sure that everything is still usable. This engine sat for several years.
ADOR- the model year I need to verify, but its just going to be a fun summer ride (going in a 54 F100) and I have no plans of racing it or anything. Just a nice sunshine cruiser.
Trans is a T5 from an 86 mustang, with a 9" rear and 3.5 or 3.73 gears. Not 100% on those yet. I have heard of issues running certain gear ratios with the 5.0. Tire size yet to be determined, but ride height will be a key factor in selecting it.
Just out on a job for a couple of weeks but I will post the pictures I have tonight of the engine. Heads will be replaced aswell as the timing cover, water pump. Need to investigate the cam and crank. To see condition. New intake and exhaust manifolds will be required and I want to run the throttle body fuel injection as it looks like a cleaner install to me. (Not a fan of fuel rails)
ADOR- the model year I need to verify, but its just going to be a fun summer ride (going in a 54 F100) and I have no plans of racing it or anything. Just a nice sunshine cruiser.
Trans is a T5 from an 86 mustang, with a 9" rear and 3.5 or 3.73 gears. Not 100% on those yet. I have heard of issues running certain gear ratios with the 5.0. Tire size yet to be determined, but ride height will be a key factor in selecting it.
Just out on a job for a couple of weeks but I will post the pictures I have tonight of the engine. Heads will be replaced aswell as the timing cover, water pump. Need to investigate the cam and crank. To see condition. New intake and exhaust manifolds will be required and I want to run the throttle body fuel injection as it looks like a cleaner install to me. (Not a fan of fuel rails)
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 314
Likes: 2
From: Northeast Louisiana
I have been back and forth so much on my combo for my 52 F1 myself. Was a S.O. 5.0 but now is carbed, now it's getting holley pro-jection, lol. Then a cam and head swap later on.
Does it have a roller cam in it? If so and it's factory that should narrow it down.
Does it have a roller cam in it? If so and it's factory that should narrow it down.
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Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
Likes: 25
From: south louisiana
Thanks for the heads up Justin, it is a roller block but I need to go through it still and make sure that everything is still usable. This engine sat for several years.
ADOR- the model year I need to verify, but its just going to be a fun summer ride (going in a 54 F100) and I have no plans of racing it or anything. Just a nice sunshine cruiser.
Trans is a T5 from an 86 mustang, with a 9" rear and 3.5 or 3.73 gears. Not 100% on those yet. I have heard of issues running certain gear ratios with the 5.0. Tire size yet to be determined, but ride height will be a key factor in selecting it.
Just out on a job for a couple of weeks but I will post the pictures I have tonight of the engine. Heads will be replaced aswell as the timing cover, water pump. Need to investigate the cam and crank. To see condition. New intake and exhaust manifolds will be required and I want to run the throttle body fuel injection as it looks like a cleaner install to me. (Not a fan of fuel rails)
ADOR- the model year I need to verify, but its just going to be a fun summer ride (going in a 54 F100) and I have no plans of racing it or anything. Just a nice sunshine cruiser.
Trans is a T5 from an 86 mustang, with a 9" rear and 3.5 or 3.73 gears. Not 100% on those yet. I have heard of issues running certain gear ratios with the 5.0. Tire size yet to be determined, but ride height will be a key factor in selecting it.
Just out on a job for a couple of weeks but I will post the pictures I have tonight of the engine. Heads will be replaced aswell as the timing cover, water pump. Need to investigate the cam and crank. To see condition. New intake and exhaust manifolds will be required and I want to run the throttle body fuel injection as it looks like a cleaner install to me. (Not a fan of fuel rails)
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Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 676
Likes: 8
From: Ontario
Well I have confirmed this isn't the roller lifters that I was excited about, just Hyd Tappet. Having a real fun time trying to pull them, with the Tappet style should they still not just pull out? Pretty sure that they are currently bulbed, and wondering if I can just finish pulling the cam and push them out instead or if they have to be pulled
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 314
Likes: 2
From: Northeast Louisiana
If they are mushroomed bad like that on the bottom just pull them up as far as you can get them to stick up, then pull the cam out. After the cam is out you can drop them out from the bottom.