Steering wheel gap ...again
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Steering wheel gap ...again
I have read with interest the threads on steering wheel gaps but I cannot adjust mine. I have a 66 F250 2WD with floor shift. The gap is like all others described. I have removed the column, replaced the lower bearing, and adjusted the column up as high as the flange under the dash will allow. Is there any adjustment that can be made where the rag joint mounts to the steering box to allow the shaft to drop down? The other comment I have seen refers to the cab mounts. I have not looked at those, but how difficult is it to replace them? Any advice would be appreciated.
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Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Deep River, CT.
As the metal cab mounts rust, rot and crumble, plus the insulator fatigues, the cab drops down and the column tries to support the cab. The rag joint flexes as much as it can toward the steer box. After that travel is done, the steering shaft starts trying to support the cab and the shaft has the lower bearing lock clamped to it, so the bearing is supporting the weight of the cab. Then good bye bearing. You take out the column, replace bearing and whatever else, put back together and nothing supported the cab with column out and it may have dropped a little more. So you have this gap. The cab has to be put back up to it's original height from the frame to get the column back where it belongs.
I have the same truck as you. When I did a frame off to my truck, the body shop rebuilt my front cab mounts while the cab was sitting on its back. Today the cab mounts are reproduced and can be replaced with out removing the cab.
I have the same truck as you. When I did a frame off to my truck, the body shop rebuilt my front cab mounts while the cab was sitting on its back. Today the cab mounts are reproduced and can be replaced with out removing the cab.
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 481
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From: Deep River, CT.
It's the metal mounts that attach to floor of the cab. They are spot welded in. The spot welds can be removed with a cutter. You need to see what the general condition of the floor is where the mounts attach. Jacking the cab high enough to work is necessary. Look online to many of the repo suppliers to see mounts and a floor piece, you may need both. You want the type that looks like your original, not the sheet metal box type
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