Oil pan replacement
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 3,256
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From: Pryor, OK
Oil pan replacement
I drive a 2006 F350 5.4L 4x4. I noticed that I have been leaking oil every time I park. So after looking for the source, I have found that the oil pan has a rust hole where the leak is coming from. Is it possible to remove the oil pan without lifting the engine? Any help is appreciated.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 607
Likes: 3
From: CT
I fixed the oil pan on my old 5.0L, 2WD '95 F150 with J.B. Weld. It didn't have an actual hole in it - but there was a rusty spot the size of a half dollar that continuously oozed oil. It was leaking about a shot glass worth of oil in a day.
Anyway, to replace the pan you had to pull the engine, or at least jack it up by about 6 inches to be able to wiggle the pan out from above the front axle. Not what I wanted to do.
So, I drained the oil. De-greased the outside of the pan. I used a wire wheel on a drill and sand paper to get rid of the rust and bring it down to bare metal. From there I buttered several coats of JB Weld over the bad area of the pan and extended it a few inches onto "good" metal.
I let it dry for 48 hours. Then refilled the crankcase with oil. I let it sit for another day before I started the engine. Surprisingly - no leaks.
The patch held for the next six years and DID NOT LEAK. Kudos to JB Weld!
Anyway, to replace the pan you had to pull the engine, or at least jack it up by about 6 inches to be able to wiggle the pan out from above the front axle. Not what I wanted to do.
So, I drained the oil. De-greased the outside of the pan. I used a wire wheel on a drill and sand paper to get rid of the rust and bring it down to bare metal. From there I buttered several coats of JB Weld over the bad area of the pan and extended it a few inches onto "good" metal.
I let it dry for 48 hours. Then refilled the crankcase with oil. I let it sit for another day before I started the engine. Surprisingly - no leaks.
The patch held for the next six years and DID NOT LEAK. Kudos to JB Weld!
Last edited by RightWingNutJob; Apr 1, 2016 at 06:10 AM. Reason: sp
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,028
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio
I knew I was going to see JB weld in this post. Seriously if you can do it probably your best repair for time and cost unless you really want to lift the engine. which would mean removing the intake elbow to have so room. disconnecting the exhaust etc... If you are going to replacing the pan I would seriously put new motor mounts in while your at it and take a good look at the dip stick tube. The dip stick tube the two piece design seems to be an issue with rust and decide if that needs to be replaced.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
Likes: 48
From: Lyndonville, Vermont
I don't think it will come out without lifting...Although I did mine by cutting the rear of the cross member out...Plus my engine had a thinner oil pan so it came out. My engine was a reman and I think it was an f150 engine because the pan it was supposed to have wasn't on there. Get new bolts and ford gasket.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 3,256
Likes: 1,318
From: Pryor, OK
Thanks for the info guys. This is going to be a project I know. If I can successfully remove the pan without lifting the engine I will reply on this post. I found one thread where guy were saying that you are going to have to lift the engine a 1/2 inch. If not, then I just might try the JB method.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
Likes: 48
From: Lyndonville, Vermont
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 3,256
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From: Pryor, OK
After I cleaned the pan with a pressure washer, I found that it wasn't my pan. It is my timing cover. Once I have the time, I will tackle that big job.
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