Front alignment
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Freshman User
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Front alignment
I have a 77 f100 2wd. I replaced my radius arm bushings and front springs last weekend. The truck rides 100% better now. But it has such bad caster, I'm worried I did something wrong. I expected the front to sit a little higher, but it's probably close to 4" higher, which seems exsesive to me. All parts are oem grade from Lmc. Any ideas?
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2014
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From: Central Florida
There is another bushing at the end of each axle. It's called the axel pivot bushing. If your pivot arm bushings were shot, these are likely shot as well. I replaced all four of these bushings with polyurethane items from Energy Suspension. The only other suspension component to check out are the kingpin bushings.
Beyond maintaining the parts discussed above, the only possible front end adjustment is toe-end. Caster and camber are built in to those bushings.
Assuming those new springs are equal to OEM, the ride height you have may be the difference between new and 40+ years old. Sagging rear springs can exaggerate the visual effect. OTOH, I suppose that not maintaining the original orientation could affect ride height. Did you get the last few inches of the upper coil under the clip that holds it in place after tightening the bolt that secures that clip?
Beyond maintaining the parts discussed above, the only possible front end adjustment is toe-end. Caster and camber are built in to those bushings.
Assuming those new springs are equal to OEM, the ride height you have may be the difference between new and 40+ years old. Sagging rear springs can exaggerate the visual effect. OTOH, I suppose that not maintaining the original orientation could affect ride height. Did you get the last few inches of the upper coil under the clip that holds it in place after tightening the bolt that secures that clip?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: NorCal
You sure about "caster"? .. Caster is the angle of inclination of the kingpin and is not adjustable (unless bent to do so). It is what returns the steering wheel back to center after making a turn.......It looks more like camber is the issue.
Roll your rig forward and back about 10 feet to take the bind out of the suspension and steering. Re-evaluate.
You'll need to log a few miles to let the springs settle.... include some bumpy roads to exercise the springs to their relatively new static height. Re-evaluate.
Roll your rig forward and back about 10 feet to take the bind out of the suspension and steering. Re-evaluate.
You'll need to log a few miles to let the springs settle.... include some bumpy roads to exercise the springs to their relatively new static height. Re-evaluate.
5th Wheeling
Joined: Apr 2015
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Actually there is a way that you can adjust the camber and caster. It might be difficult to find someone to do it though. You simply bend the I-beam for camber and the radius arm for caster. It doesn't take much but you need to know what you're doing.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: NorCal
Given the typical FTE'er, 99.9 percent don't have the fixtures and few shops can handle the job. If you know of one local to the OP... post up!
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Freshman User
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You are correct, it's camber, I had a misunderstanding of camber and caster. The spring is oem spec, and it is clipped in the spring retainer on top. I do need to replace the old rear springs so it sits a bit higher up front right now. If there is no adjustment for the camber and all I need to do is let the suspension settle, I'll drive it a bit and reevaluate it. Thank you for the advise
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Spencer Mountain, NC
When you ordered your springs did you specify which engine you are running. I think there were different springs based on engine size (weight).
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: NorCal
You are correct, it's camber, I had a misunderstanding of camber and caster. The spring is oem spec, and it is clipped in the spring retainer on top. I do need to replace the old rear springs so it sits a bit higher up front right now. If there is no adjustment for the camber and all I need to do is let the suspension settle, I'll drive it a bit and reevaluate it. Thank you for the advise
Toe is the only thing easily adjustable. And since ya replaced the RA bushings, you'll need to align it..... set toe at 1/8-inch toe-in. It's doable in the driveway using "toe plates" or my method with two lengths of steel, two tape measures, and tape. Google "toe plates" and follow the same principle.
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The springs are from Lmc and they require engine specification. Assumiming they didn't ship the wrong ones, they should be correct. I get how the toe plates work but how do I adjust it I guess?
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Also one more question, on the I beam pivot bushing. How did you guys remove the old one? I was planning on replacing those right away as well but the ones parts geek sent were perfectly round with an outer sleeve, where as the I beam hole is oblong/oval shaped, so I didn't do it. I saw you can get kits without the outer sleeve, but I wasn't sure if that was the best bet.
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2014
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From: Vermont
My dad was an alignment pro way back in the 50's and 60's with folks and even dealerships from around the state bringing vehicles to him when a handling or alignment problem could not be solved.I always remember watching him go about bending /tweaking the straight axle front ends by chains and hydraulic jacks supported by a big ol' I beam going side to side on the alignment rack directly under the front of the rig. That easily took care of the camber but don't remember how he twisted the axle a bit for caster. A 10 or 12 foot pipe wrench would be fine. gary
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