NP205 ?s
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NP205 ?s
I found a NP205 that has unknown origins, but I think will fit in my 1979 f150 with a NP435 and NP205 already.
The numbers off the case are D9TA7A195GA and 27 78 69 205.
Will this case work in my setup??
The numbers off the case are D9TA7A195GA and 27 78 69 205.
Will this case work in my setup??
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Leaks from every place possible, will pop out of gear when I left off the clutch in 1st if I'm not holding it place, and feels like it has a fair amount of slop in it.
If it is anything like the 9" rearend from the truck then it hasn't been taken care of at all. I had closer to .060 backlash on my gears when I checked it before I started the rebuild.
And for $100 it wouldn't hurt to have a spare.
If it is anything like the 9" rearend from the truck then it hasn't been taken care of at all. I had closer to .060 backlash on my gears when I checked it before I started the rebuild.
And for $100 it wouldn't hurt to have a spare.
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For a 100 bill it would be a quick fix, well a cheap and faster one anyway. Any way to ck the new ones operation, other than turn it over by hand?
FYI it is a heavy dude to change out. A NP-205 is pretty much bomb proof and the HD xfer case of them all. You might just need to adjust the linkage to make is work right?
Also ck the mount condition, that might be an additional issue. And seal kit is not that much or that involved to replace.
NP205 Rebuild Guide
http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog...rcaseparts.htm
FYI it is a heavy dude to change out. A NP-205 is pretty much bomb proof and the HD xfer case of them all. You might just need to adjust the linkage to make is work right?
Also ck the mount condition, that might be an additional issue. And seal kit is not that much or that involved to replace.
NP205 Rebuild Guide
http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog...rcaseparts.htm
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Thanks for the info!
The motor mounts are shot, so that doesn't help, I have new ones ready to go in they're just a little further down the list.
I'll start a new thread when I jump into the trans and case repair. I can have the truck on stands and the manual trans not in gear, with the truck running, and the rear wheels still want to get spinning on their own! Not sure why, but that's another gremlin for later!
I'm doing a slooooow rebuild of the whole truck, and one less thing that I have to pull off and rebuild and leave the truck sitting is a plus in my book.
It's tore apart right now as I put a lift on it to replace the rear springs that seem to have been over loaded, and front coils that had "spacers" put in them to give a "lift".
The motor mounts are shot, so that doesn't help, I have new ones ready to go in they're just a little further down the list.
I'll start a new thread when I jump into the trans and case repair. I can have the truck on stands and the manual trans not in gear, with the truck running, and the rear wheels still want to get spinning on their own! Not sure why, but that's another gremlin for later!
I'm doing a slooooow rebuild of the whole truck, and one less thing that I have to pull off and rebuild and leave the truck sitting is a plus in my book.
It's tore apart right now as I put a lift on it to replace the rear springs that seem to have been over loaded, and front coils that had "spacers" put in them to give a "lift".
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That "in neutral and rear wheels still turn when on jack stands" does sound like an odd issue...
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Had the rear on jackstands after changing the brake cylinders and started the truck to bleed the lines and the wheels started slowly rotating. Checked and made sure it wasn't in gear. Let off the brake and they started slowly turning again and picked up speed. I could easily hold the wheel still by hand, but if I let go it started spinning again.
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A smart guy said this once, maybe it applies some how?
With trans in neutral and clutch "out", the input shaft is turning and "internal windage" as the trans lube is swirled will still apply a rotation to the output shaft when there's nothing to stop it turning.... like when you slide the TC into neutral on the way from 2hi to 4lo.
Mine has a C-6 and while I can shift from 2hi to 4hi with trans neutral with engine running, I need to stop and place trans in PARK before going from 2hi through TC neutral to 4lo for similar reason.
The deal is when that TC hits neutral, there is nothing to stop it's input shaft from turning, and that means nothing to stop the transmission output from turning .... (except in my case when I place C-6 in Park the park pawl locks the trans output shaft) ..... and in your case, pushing the clutch in will minimize it. If your clutch drags a hair, you'll maybe need to shut your engine off .... in which case the clutch needs adjustment.
With trans in neutral and clutch "out", the input shaft is turning and "internal windage" as the trans lube is swirled will still apply a rotation to the output shaft when there's nothing to stop it turning.... like when you slide the TC into neutral on the way from 2hi to 4lo.
Mine has a C-6 and while I can shift from 2hi to 4hi with trans neutral with engine running, I need to stop and place trans in PARK before going from 2hi through TC neutral to 4lo for similar reason.
The deal is when that TC hits neutral, there is nothing to stop it's input shaft from turning, and that means nothing to stop the transmission output from turning .... (except in my case when I place C-6 in Park the park pawl locks the trans output shaft) ..... and in your case, pushing the clutch in will minimize it. If your clutch drags a hair, you'll maybe need to shut your engine off .... in which case the clutch needs adjustment.
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